22nd of October 2009
Enthusiastic comments on the US and UK press
BURGHOUND.COM, oct 2008 - Allen Meadows (USA)
Domaine Bernard Defaix – Chablis
Didier Defaix describes 2008 as a “complicated vintage. There were periods of heat followed by cool and rainy counterparts that would have normally set the stage for rot but the north wind saved things as it arrived right at the beginning of September. It was a good thing too because we didn’t start picking until the 30th and slowly harvested until the 17th of October. We were able to do this because the wind dried things out so thoroughly that there was absolutely no rush. Moreover, it allowed us the luxury of picking each parcel exactly when optimum ripeness was achieved as the wind helped to concentrate the sugars though it had a tendency to degrade the acidity so we had to watch things closely. Potential alcohols came in between 12 and 13% though yields were a good 30% lower than in 2007. I very much like the ‘08s as there is a bit more flesh to them than with the ‘07s even though the ‘07s could actually be approached now if desired.” I’ve noted this before but it bears repeating.
The Defaix wines are now among the top 10 domaines in Chablis and both the ‘07s and the ‘08s merit your attention.
2008 Petit Chablis: A fresh and frank nose of green fruit and enough Chablis character to be interesting leads to racy and lemony flavors that possess a solidly intense and bone dry finish if only moderate complexity. 86/2010+
2008 Chablis: An utterly classic nose – this could be from no where else but Chablis – of green fruit, oyster shell and sea water complements pure and fresh medium-bodied flavors that culminate in a textured, crisp, detailed and bone dry finish of
impressive length for a wine at this level. Excellent quality and recommended. 89/2011+
2008 Chablis – Vieilles Vignes: (from 45+ year old vines that see 20% oak but no new wood and no cold stabilization). The wood treatment has not yet integrated completely and sticks out a bit on the otherwise fresh and complex nose that gives way
to serious, concentrated and sappy medium plus weight flavors that linger impressively on the dry and racy finish. This is also a fine villages that is worth a look. (88-91)/2012+
2008 Chablis “Les Lys”: (this saw 10-15% oak treatment). Here the oak is much more discreet if not invisible and allows the highly floral, elegant and lightly spiced nose to express itself to good measure. The delicate and refined flavors bring good richness but also fine detail on the precise, dry and persistent finish. A lovely fine of finesse. (89-92)/2012+
2008 Chablis “Vaillons”: (almost all Vaillons proper with a bit of Séchet). A similar application of wood frames citrus, spice, brioche and white flower aromas that slide into somewhat bigger and richer flavors that possess good extract levels and fine intensity on the sappy and palate staining finish that exudes Chablis character. Lovely juice. (90-92)/2013+
2008 Chablis “Côte de Léchet”: Subtle wood treatment sets off extremely fresh citrus and stone aromas that are in keeping with the surprisingly rich and full-bodied flavors that retain a fine sense of underlying precision and tension while culminating in a very dry and palate staining finish that exudes plenty of Chablis character. In a word, terrific. (90-93)/2013+
2008 Chablis “Côte de Léchet - Réserve”: (from 50+ year old vines aged in 40% oak though none of it is new). Here the wood is, as usual, a bit more evident but not so much so that it dominates the lemon and sea breeze character that precede the fresh, clean, pure and serious flavors that possess buckets of dry extract that buffers the firm acid spine on the palate drenching finish. This is a combination of power and punch yet there is a certain elegance. Also terrific. (91-93)/2013+
2008 Chablis “Fourchaume”: (from Côte de Fontenay). A ripe but completely classic nose of green fruit, tidal pool and oyster shell hints that are also reflected by the rich, full and voluminous flavors that are relatively powerful on the dense, complex and attractively vibrant and wonderfully long finish that combines both power and punch. Like the Réserve, this is impressive. (91-93)/2013+
2008 Chablis - Vaudésir: The malo had just finished at the time of my late June visit and the nose was clearly marked by it though the big, rich and full-bodied flavors are dense, complex, energetic and powerful with an almost painfully intense finish that exudes the beautiful sense of underlying tension. The Fourchaume is impressive but it’s equally clear that there is another dimension present here. (92-94)/2014+
2008 Chablis - Bougros: A similar if somewhat less troubled nose in this case allows for glimpses of green fruit and oyster shell notes to peek through the funk and precedes the very rich and full flavors that are not quite as concentrated but still possess plenty of punch and character on the very dry, racy, clean and impressively long finish. (91-94)/2015+
2007 Chablis – Vieilles Vignes: (from 45+ year old vines that see 20% oak but no new wood and no cold stabilization). A ripe and completely classic nose with obviously mineral reduction slides into rich, full and serious flavors blessed with ample mid-palate concentration as well as very solid depth and length. This is like licking rocks and the old vines are evident. Terrific quality for its level and highly recommended. 90/2012+
2007 Chablis “Les Lys”: (this saw 10-15% oak treatment). A ripe, pure and ultra refined nose that is both airy and lacy while displaying softly seductive aromas of sea breeze, white pear, lemon zest, spice hints and iodine nuances that continue onto the intense, detailed and superbly precise middle weight flavors that are a study in delicacy yet deliver outstanding flavor authority on the austere and understated finish. I really like the style of this as there is elegance but grip. 91/2012+
2007 Chablis “Vaillons”: (almost all Vaillons proper with a bit of Séchet). An overtly spicy nose has lemon zest and sea breeze nuances and the ripe green fruit aromas merge into almost painfully intense, precise and very firm medium-bodied flavors supported by a solid acid spine and pungent minerality on the bone dry and equally austere finish. There is not the finesse of the Les Lys but this is more powerful and evidences even more Chablis character that gives the Vaillons a slight edge. 92/2013+
2007 Chablis “Côte de Léchet”: As the best examples of Léchet always are, this boasts an ultra elegant nose of citrus blossom, oyster shell, warm stone and lemon zest, the latter of which is also reflected by the textured, racy, detailed and bone dry flavors brimming with plenty of Chablis character on the exceptionally long and austere finish. This is a classic old school style of Chablis that is a bit finer than the Vaillons if less powerful – a qualitative choice. In a word, excellent. 92/2013+
2007 Chablis “Côte de Léchet - Réserve”: (from 50+ year old vines aged in 40% oak though none of it is new). A subtle if noticeable touch of wood highlights a similar if slightly riper nose that has a touch of menthol as well that can be found on the exceptionally rich, layered and intense flavors that possess good size and weight yet lose no sense of detail or delineation because of it, all wrapped in an explosive and smoky finish. In sum, this too is very promising. 92/2013+
2007 Chablis “Fourchaume”: (from Côte de Fontenay). Blind, it would be almost impossible to guess anything other than Chablis as this displays a positively classic nose of salt air, oyster shell and green fruit that is pure, layered and elegant before giving way to round, naturally sweet and concentrated flavors that stain the palate with sap, all wrapped in a wonderfully intense, powerful and driving finish. This is quite different from the Côte de Léchet examples and should age well. 92/2013+
2007 Chablis - Vaudésir: This is also utterly classic with ripe, pure and classy aromas that are set off by a discreet touch of wood before preceding concentrated, deep, layered and notably serious relatively big-bodied flavors yet this remains a wine of finesse and elegance as the minerally finish is focused and hugely long. The balance is perfect and this really does a slow build before exploding on the palate staining finish. 93/2014+
2007 Chablis - Bougros: A deft touch of wood seamlessly works into the dense mix of ripe floral and green fruit aromas that are in keeping with the intense, pure and notably energetic broad-shouldered flavors that explode on the almost brutal finish.
This is an impressively scaled, powerful and concentrated wine that is massively long as it is blessed with serious amounts of dry extract. This is not nearly as elegant as the Vaudésir but it’s very Bougros in character. 93/2014+
Domaine Jaeger-Defaix (Rully)
This is a new domaine whose first vintage was 2003. It is run by Didier Defaix (see Chablis) as the vineyards belonged to the great aunt of his wife, who, until the Defaix’ took over, sold the production as grapes. The domaine comprises 4 ha with five 1ers. The grapes are presently vinified in Chablis, which makes for a roughly two hour drive. Defaix explained that all of the ‘08s were presently still in malo and thus only the in-bottle ‘07s are reviewed below. The ‘08s will be reviewed in-bottle next year.
Whites:
2007 Rully “Mont Palais”: A very subtle touch of wood sets off ripe aromas of honeysuckle and citrus plus subtle muscat notes that merge into supple, round and agreeable flavors that possess reasonably good detail and fine finishing precision. A balanced effort with fine length and excellent complexity. 89/2010+
2007 Rully “Les Cloux”: Here the wood treatment is just a bit more in evidence as it frames the pretty white flower aromas that introduce more concentrated and intense medium-bodied flavors that benefit from solid acid support on the rich, minerally and long finale. Lovely if a bit woody but note that the wood does not upset the overall balance. 89/2011+
2007 Rully “Rabourcé”: More discreet oak highlights floral and lemon zest notes that complement the rich, full and naturally sweet middle weight flavors that finish with a seductive texture, fine depth and excellent length. This is almost a hypothetical blend of the prior two wines with an added dash of underlying minerality. Recommended. 90/2011+
Reds:
2007 Rully “Préaux”: A very fresh and actually quite ripe nose of red berry fruit that evidences subtle earth and wood notes that give way to supple, round and detailed medium-bodied flavors that are utterly delicious and quite pure if not especially complex. Still, for a straightforward pinot that offers enjoyable exuberance, this is worth a look and it is already approachable. 88/2010+
2007 Rully “Clos du Chapitre”: Very mild oak toast notes combine with slightly more elegant and ripe red raspberry, cherry and warm earth aromas that lead to rich, round, forward and supple flavors that are easy but not simple with a tasty and tangy finish. There is a bit better phenolic ripeness evident on the structural elements and this should repay 1 to 3 years of cellar time. In sum, this is both seductive and lovely. 89/2011+
A GUIDE TO THE WINES OF CHABLIS, Austen BISS (UK)
9 domains have been rated with 3 stars on this book. We are one of them.
“Bernard is the fourth generation of a renowned family of vignerons, starting his own estate in 1959 with two hectares of vines. On Bernard’s retirement, sons Sylvain and Didier assumed control and to date the domaine has grown to over 25 hectares, of which 9 hectares are Premier Cru Côte de Lechet. Defaix is the largest single owner in this climat and part of his holding here was planted in 1955. There are 12 hectares of Chablis Village land including 1 hectare of Vieilles Vignes more than 40 years old. In addition to the above, the domaine now purchases grape must from Fourchaume and Grands Crus Bougros and Vaudésir.
Defaix stresses the first step to successful vinification is taken in the vineyard so as to produce the ripest healthiest fruit. Yields are impressively low, with rendements varing from 35 hectolitres per hectare for the Côte de Lechet Vieilles Vignes to 55 hectolitres per hectare for the Petit Chablis. 16 hectares of the estate vineyards are run organically. He hopes to convert the entire vignoble to organics from 2009. Harvesting is done mechanically, as this is found preferable to picking by hand, one reason being that the harvest can be stopped as soon as it starts raining. After the "table de trie" the grapes are given a gentle pressing pneumatically so that the must produced requires less débourbage.
Both fermentations take place in stainless steel, left on its lees, racked and fined with bentonite or isinglass. Elevage is from 3 to 8 months according to the nature of the cuvée and vintage, followed by a light plate filtration and bottling.
There is a cuvée of Côte de Lechet Vieilles Vignes Reserve which is partly vinified in oak barrels where it stays for eight months with regular batonnage. The wine is then racked and returned to barrels for another four to six months before tasting and assemblage with the same cuvée in inox. The idea of this method is to produce a more powerful example of Côte de Lechet, but retaining typicité and elegance. The 2006 and 2007 examples are dream wines, indeed Côte de Lechet from Bernard Defaix is never less than exciting.Synthetic corks are used for the Petit Chablis, Chablis and all half bottles.None of the wines tasted in May 2009 were anything less than very good. Brilliant wine making, brilliant wines.
Petit Chablis – Delicious and reliable
2008 From vines grown on Kimmeridgian soil. Deliciously quaffable, lovely fruit and balanced acidity, crisp, mineral finish, very very long. Very Good.
Chablis – Delicious and reliable
2008 Delicious fruit on nose, grass cuttings on palate, fresh green apples, really succulent acidity, crisp, and long clean finish. Very Good.
Chablis Vieilles Vignes – A set-up in intensity, also delicious and reliable.
2007 More intense nose, flowery and minerally, rich, concentrated, crisp, and spicy with beautiful balance and finish. Very Good.
2006 Intense nose of floral fruit, minerally, rich, elegant, crisp, spicy, apricots, with lovely concentration, beautiful balance and finish. This is classy and a really delicious mouthful. Drink from 2010/11. Excellent.
PREMIERS CRUS
Côte de Lechet Bernard Defaix is the champion maker of this excellent premier cru
2008 Lovely
elegant mineral nose, delicious fruit with balanced acidity, soft, elegant, long aftertaste, stony mineral, intensity to fill the mouth with delicious flavours. Fabulous. Drink from 2011. Excellent.
2007 Gorgeous wine. Stony, chalky minerality, very concentrated fruit, supremely elegant, wine of typicité, intense, very long, classy, fabulous. So delicious. Drink 2010 to 2016. Truly Excellent.
2006 Stony, chalky minerals, very concentrated fruit, sumptous acidity, supremely elegant, great typicité, intense, very long with lovely finish. As enjoyable as the Vieilles Vignes 2006. Absolutely delicious. Drink from 2010 if you can wait. Excellent.
Côte de Lechet Vieilles Vignes – The Vieilles Vignes is even more intense and concentrated.
2008 An unbelievable wine. Tasted with Nick Clarke of Dreyfus Ashby, importer of Louis Michel wines, who exclaimed „Oh, what a treat !“ Comments as for Côte de Lechet 2008 above but with extra concentration. Drink from 2011/12. Truly remarkable and Excellent.
2007 From vines planted in 1955. How could the Côte de lechet 2007 be better. It can’t, but this is different. Very elegant nose from very concentrated fruit, showing floral minerals, intensity, spices, and great length. This is an absolute knockout with seafood. Drink 2010/11 for 6 years, maybe more. Excellent.
2006 Elegant fruit and terrifically balanced acidity, citrus fruits, pineapple and mango, exotic, tightly intense, expansive, very rich, long, and complex. Drink 2010 for many years. Excellent.
Les Lys – Wines of elegance and finesse.
2008 Floral fruit with soft acidity, very mineral, great length and aftertaste, dry finish but in the nicest sense, elegant and feminine. Drink from 2011. Very Good.
2007 Closed nose, delicious fruit, peachy, with elegance and finesse, a fine balance, and clean finish. A wine of class. Still needs a year. Drink 2010 to 2016. Excellent.
Vaillons – The best Vaillons by far.
2008 Closed on the nose but palate shows lovely fruit with delicious mouth puckering acidity, yellow fruits, nutty, mineral typicité, perfumed, long and beautiful aftertaste. Lovely wine. Drink from 2011. Excellent.
2007 Gentle nose here, elegant, floral, and feminine, with kiwi and passion fruit, some intensity, good length and a crisp clean finish. Drink 2010 to 2016. Very Good.
2006 Gentle fruit on nose, some elegance, floral and feminine, with kiwi and passion fruit again, good intensity, length and aftertaste, and a crisp clean finish. Delicious. Drinking now, so enjoy for 4 to 5 years. Excellent.
GRANDS CRUS
Bougros 2006 Closed nose, a little smoky, this is a big powerful wine, masculine and rich. Fills the mouth with wonderful intense fruit, lots of acidity for longevity, with excellent length and finish. Drink 2012 onwards. Excellent.
Vaudésir2007 Forget that this is a négociant wine – this is very good. Nose of typicité, elegant intense powerful fruit with great length and aftertaste. Lovely minerality and all round typicité. Drink 2012 onwards. Very Good.
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The signs of an excellent vintage
We have begun harvesting on saturday 12th of September in Rully and then on wednesday 16th of September in Chablis.The harvest took place with a nice weather: a real harvest weather, misty in the early morning and sunny during the day. A short rain time -rather welcome after the dry summer- came in between without causing any damage.
In Rully, the whites are showing a very good concentration and the reds an optimal maturity with tannins already very round. An excellent vintage in perspective.
In Chablis too, the maturity is very good with an acidity a bit lower than the average due to the strong sunshine at mid-August. The balance sugar/acid is very satisfying and the musts are showing a great concentration. The alcoholic fermentations have begun quietly and regularly.
2009 is our first vintage 100% organic on Chablis and Rully as we are now on our first year of certification under the control of Ecocert.
This year, as in 2008, the pressure of diseases was really outstanding like for mildew, oïdium and grappe worms. Despite of this difficult context, we have maintained a good sanitary state.
It is interesting to see that we are now on a situation close to the one that our parents knew on the fifties/sixties when the only spraying products tahy had were cupper and sulfer...
We still have things to learn to understand better the performance and the reactions of the vine on this new environment. And, here again, organic doesn't appear as an end in itself but as a mover of reflection about our way to work both in the vineyard and in the cellar for the winemaking
