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BURGHOUND.COM, oct 2009 - Allen Meadows (USA)
Domaine Bernard Defaix – Chablis
Didier Defaix describes 2008 as a “complicated vintage. There were periods of heat followed by cool and rainy counterparts  that would have normally set the stage for rot but the north wind saved things as it arrived right at the beginning of September. It was a good thing too because we didn’t start picking until the 30th and slowly harvested until the 17th of October. We were able to do this because the wind dried things out so thoroughly that there was absolutely no rush. Moreover, it allowed us the luxury of picking each parcel exactly when optimum ripeness was achieved as the wind helped to concentrate the sugars though it had a tendency to degrade the acidity so we had to watch things closely. Potential alcohols came in between 12 and 13% though yields were a good 30% lower than in 2007. I very much like the ‘08s as there is a bit more flesh to them than with the ‘07s even though the ‘07s could actually be approached now if desired.” I’ve noted this before but it bears repeating.
The Defaix wines are now among the top 10 domaines in Chablis and both the ‘07s and the ‘08s merit your attention.

2008 Petit Chablis: A fresh and frank nose of green fruit and enough Chablis character to be interesting leads to racy and lemony flavors that possess a solidly intense and bone dry finish if only moderate complexity. 86/2010+
2008 Chablis: An utterly classic nose – this could be from no where else but Chablis – of green fruit, oyster shell and sea water complements pure and fresh medium-bodied flavors that culminate in a textured, crisp, detailed and bone dry finish of
impressive length for a wine at this level. Excellent quality and recommended. 89/2011+
2008 Chablis – Vieilles Vignes: (from 45+ year old vines that see 20% oak but no new wood and no cold stabilization). The wood treatment has not yet integrated completely and sticks out a bit on the otherwise fresh and complex nose that gives way
to serious, concentrated and sappy medium plus weight flavors that linger impressively on the dry and racy finish. This is also a fine villages that is worth a look. (88-91)/2012+
2008 Chablis “Les Lys”: (this saw 10-15% oak treatment). Here the oak is much more discreet if not invisible and allows the highly floral, elegant and lightly spiced nose to express itself to good measure. The delicate and refined flavors bring good richness but also fine detail on the precise, dry and persistent finish. A lovely fine of finesse. (89-92)/2012+
2008 Chablis “Vaillons”: (almost all Vaillons proper with a bit of Séchet). A similar application of wood frames citrus, spice, brioche and white flower aromas that slide into somewhat bigger and richer flavors that possess good extract levels and fine intensity on the sappy and palate staining finish that exudes Chablis character. Lovely juice. (90-92)/2013+
2008 Chablis “Côte de Léchet”: Subtle wood treatment sets off extremely fresh citrus and stone aromas that are in keeping with the surprisingly rich and full-bodied flavors that retain a fine sense of underlying precision and tension while culminating in a very dry and palate staining finish that exudes plenty of Chablis character. In a word, terrific. (90-93)/2013+
2008 Chablis “Côte de Léchet - Réserve”: (from 50+ year old vines aged in 40% oak though none of it is new). Here the wood is, as usual, a bit more evident but not so much so that it dominates the lemon and sea breeze character that precede the fresh, clean, pure and serious flavors that possess buckets of dry extract that buffers the firm acid spine on the palate drenching finish. This is a combination of power and punch yet there is a certain elegance. Also terrific. (91-93)/2013+
2008 Chablis “Fourchaume”: (from Côte de Fontenay). A ripe but completely classic nose of green fruit, tidal pool and oyster shell hints that are also reflected by the rich, full and voluminous flavors that are relatively powerful on the dense, complex and attractively vibrant and wonderfully long finish that combines both power and punch. Like the Réserve, this is impressive. (91-93)/2013+
2008 Chablis - Vaudésir: The malo had just finished at the time of my late June visit and the nose was clearly marked by it though the big, rich and full-bodied flavors are dense, complex, energetic and powerful with an almost painfully intense finish that exudes the beautiful sense of underlying tension. The Fourchaume is impressive but it’s equally clear that there is another dimension present here. (92-94)/2014+
2008 Chablis - Bougros: A similar if somewhat less troubled nose in this case allows for glimpses of green fruit and oyster shell notes to peek through the funk and precedes the very rich and full flavors that are not quite as concentrated but still possess plenty of punch and character on the very dry, racy, clean and impressively long finish. (91-94)/2015+
2007 Chablis – Vieilles Vignes: (from 45+ year old vines that see 20% oak but no new wood and no cold stabilization). A ripe and completely classic nose with obviously mineral reduction slides into rich, full and serious flavors blessed with ample mid-palate concentration as well as very solid depth and length. This is like licking rocks and the old vines are evident. Terrific quality for its level and highly recommended. 90/2012+
2007 Chablis “Les Lys”: (this saw 10-15% oak treatment). A ripe, pure and ultra refined nose that is both airy and lacy while displaying softly seductive aromas of sea breeze, white pear, lemon zest, spice hints and iodine nuances that continue onto the intense, detailed and superbly precise middle weight flavors that are a study in delicacy yet deliver outstanding flavor authority on the austere and understated finish. I really like the style of this as there is elegance but grip. 91/2012+
2007 Chablis “Vaillons”: (almost all Vaillons proper with a bit of Séchet). An overtly spicy nose has lemon zest and sea breeze nuances and the ripe green fruit aromas merge into almost painfully intense, precise and very firm medium-bodied flavors supported by a solid acid spine and pungent minerality on the bone dry and equally austere finish. There is not the finesse of the Les Lys but this is more powerful and evidences even more Chablis character that gives the Vaillons a slight edge. 92/2013+
2007 Chablis “Côte de Léchet”: As the best examples of Léchet always are, this boasts an ultra elegant nose of citrus blossom, oyster shell, warm stone and lemon zest, the latter of which is also reflected by the textured, racy, detailed and bone dry flavors brimming with plenty of Chablis character on the exceptionally long and austere finish. This is a classic old school style of Chablis that is a bit finer than the Vaillons if less powerful – a qualitative choice. In a word, excellent. 92/2013+
2007 Chablis “Côte de Léchet - Réserve”: (from 50+ year old vines aged in 40% oak though none of it is new). A subtle if noticeable touch of wood highlights a similar if slightly riper nose that has a touch of menthol as well that can be found on the exceptionally rich, layered and intense flavors that possess good size and weight yet lose no sense of detail or delineation because of it, all wrapped in an explosive and smoky finish. In sum, this too is very promising. 92/2013+
2007 Chablis “Fourchaume”: (from Côte de Fontenay). Blind, it would be almost impossible to guess anything other than Chablis as this displays a positively classic nose of salt air, oyster shell and green fruit that is pure, layered and elegant before giving way to round, naturally sweet and concentrated flavors that stain the palate with sap, all wrapped in a wonderfully intense, powerful and driving finish. This is quite different from the Côte de Léchet examples and should age well. 92/2013+
2007 Chablis - Vaudésir: This is also utterly classic with ripe, pure and classy aromas that are set off by a discreet touch of wood before preceding concentrated, deep, layered and notably serious relatively big-bodied flavors yet this remains a wine of finesse and elegance as the minerally finish is focused and hugely long. The balance is perfect and this really does a slow build before exploding on the palate staining finish. 93/2014+
2007 Chablis - Bougros: A deft touch of wood seamlessly works into the dense mix of ripe floral and green fruit aromas that are in keeping with the intense, pure and notably energetic broad-shouldered flavors that explode on the almost brutal finish.
This is an impressively scaled, powerful and concentrated wine that is massively long as it is blessed with serious amounts of dry extract. This is not nearly as elegant as the Vaudésir but it’s very Bougros in character. 93/2014+

Domaine Jaeger-Defaix (Rully)
This is a new domaine whose first vintage was 2003. It is run by Didier Defaix (see Chablis) as the vineyards belonged to the great aunt of his wife, who, until the Defaix’ took over, sold the production as grapes. The domaine comprises 4 ha with five 1ers. The grapes are presently vinified in Chablis, which makes for a roughly two hour drive. Defaix explained that all of the ‘08s were presently still in malo and thus only the in-bottle ‘07s are reviewed below. The ‘08s will be reviewed in-bottle next year.
Whites:
2007 Rully “Mont Palais”: A very subtle touch of wood sets off ripe aromas of honeysuckle and citrus plus subtle muscat notes that merge into supple, round and agreeable flavors that possess reasonably good detail and fine finishing precision. A balanced effort with fine length and excellent complexity. 89/2010+
2007 Rully “Les Cloux”: Here the wood treatment is just a bit more in evidence as it frames the pretty white flower aromas that introduce more concentrated and intense medium-bodied flavors that benefit from solid acid support on the rich, minerally and long finale. Lovely if a bit woody but note that the wood does not upset the overall balance. 89/2011+
2007 Rully “Rabourcé”: More discreet oak highlights floral and lemon zest notes that complement the rich, full and naturally sweet middle weight flavors that finish with a seductive texture, fine depth and excellent length. This is almost a hypothetical blend of the prior two wines with an added dash of underlying minerality. Recommended. 90/2011+
Reds:
2007 Rully “Préaux”: A very fresh and actually quite ripe nose of red berry fruit that evidences subtle earth and wood notes that give way to supple, round and detailed medium-bodied flavors that are utterly delicious and quite pure if not especially complex. Still, for a straightforward pinot that offers enjoyable exuberance, this is worth a look and it is already approachable. 88/2010+
2007 Rully “Clos du Chapitre”: Very mild oak toast notes combine with slightly more elegant and ripe red raspberry, cherry and warm earth aromas that lead to rich, round, forward and supple flavors that are easy but not simple with a tasty and tangy finish. There is a bit better phenolic ripeness evident on the structural elements and this should repay 1 to 3 years of cellar time. In sum, this is both seductive and lovely. 89/2011+

BOURGOGNE AUJOURD’HUI   AVRIL-MAI 2010
Chablis 1er cru Fourchaume 2008 - 15/20
A real Chablis wine, powerful and delicate at the same time. Very promising ...
Chablis 1er cru les Lys 2008 - 14.5/20
A stony and floral nose. The mouth is fresh, with an acidulous fruitiness and a very mineral finish.

LA REVUE DU VIN DE FRANCE - MAI 2010
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros: These wines have the massive texture and the alcohol richness that is typical of Bougros
Bougros 2008 - Bernard Defaix : 14,5/20 – We appreciate more its salty finish than its woody character, lightly drying. To wait.

Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet: With Montmains and Vaillons, Cote de lechet is amongst the 3 best premiers crus of the left bank.
Ten superb premiers crus 2008 among which :Côte de Lechet Réserve 2008 Domaine Bernard Defaix : 15,5/20 –Its straightness makes it perfect for the table and also for ageing.

A GUIDE TO THE WINES OF CHABLIS, Austen BISS (UK)
9 domains have been rated with 3 stars on this book. We are one of them.
“Bernard is the fourth generation of a renowned family of vignerons, starting his own estate in 1959 with two hectares of vines. On Bernard’s retirement, sons Sylvain and Didier assumed control and to date the domaine has grown to over 25 hectares, of which 9 hectares are Premier Cru Côte de Lechet. Defaix is the largest single owner in this climat and part of his holding here was planted in 1955. There are 12 hectares of Chablis Village land including 1 hectare of Vieilles Vignes more than 40 years old. In addition to the above, the domaine now purchases grape must from Fourchaume and Grands Crus Bougros and Vaudésir.
Defaix stresses the first step to successful vinification is taken in the vineyard so as to produce the ripest healthiest fruit. Yields are impressively low, with rendements varing from 35 hectolitres per hectare for the Côte de Lechet Vieilles Vignes to 55 hectolitres per hectare for the Petit Chablis. 16 hectares of the estate vineyards are run organically. He hopes to convert the entire vignoble to organics from 2009. Harvesting is done mechanically, as this is found preferable to picking by hand, one reason being that the harvest can be stopped as soon as it starts raining. After the "table de trie" the grapes are given a gentle pressing pneumatically so that the must produced requires less débourbage.
Both fermentations take place in stainless steel, left on its lees, racked and fined with bentonite or isinglass. Elevage is from 3 to 8 months according to the nature of the cuvée and vintage, followed by a light plate filtration and bottling.
There is a cuvée of Côte de Lechet Vieilles Vignes Reserve which is partly vinified in oak barrels where it stays for eight months with regular batonnage. The wine is then racked and returned to barrels for another four to six months before tasting and assemblage with the same cuvée in inox. The idea of this method is to produce a more powerful example of Côte de Lechet, but retaining typicité and elegance. The 2006 and 2007 examples are dream wines, indeed Côte de Lechet from Bernard Defaix is never less than exciting.Synthetic corks are used for the Petit Chablis, Chablis and all half bottles.None of the wines tasted in May 2009 were anything less than very good. Brilliant wine making, brilliant wines.
Petit Chablis – Delicious and reliable
2008    From vines grown on Kimmeridgian soil. Deliciously quaffable, lovely fruit and balanced acidity, crisp, mineral finish, very very long. Very Good.  
Chablis – Delicious and reliable
2008  Delicious fruit on nose, grass cuttings on palate, fresh green apples, really succulent acidity, crisp, and long clean finish. Very Good.
Chablis  Vieilles Vignes – A set-up in intensity, also delicious and reliable.           
2007    More intense nose, flowery and minerally, rich, concentrated, crisp, and spicy with beautiful balance and finish. Very Good.
2006    Intense nose of floral fruit, minerally, rich, elegant, crisp, spicy, apricots, with lovely concentration, beautiful balance and finish. This is classy and a really delicious mouthful. Drink from 2010/11. Excellent.
PREMIERS CRUS
Côte de Lechet Bernard Defaix is the champion maker of this excellent premier cru
2008 Lovely elegant mineral nose, delicious fruit with balanced acidity, soft, elegant, long aftertaste, stony mineral, intensity to fill the mouth with delicious flavours. Fabulous. Drink from 2011. Excellent.
2007  Gorgeous wine. Stony, chalky minerality, very concentrated fruit, supremely elegant, wine of typicité, intense, very long, classy, fabulous. So delicious. Drink 2010 to 2016. Truly  Excellent.
2006  Stony, chalky minerals, very concentrated fruit, sumptous acidity, supremely elegant, great typicité, intense, very long with lovely finish. As enjoyable as the Vieilles Vignes 2006. Absolutely delicious. Drink from 2010 if you can wait. Excellent.       
Côte de Lechet Vieilles Vignes – The Vieilles Vignes is even more intense and concentrated.
2008    An unbelievable wine. Tasted with Nick Clarke of Dreyfus Ashby, importer of Louis Michel wines, who exclaimed  „Oh, what a treat !“ Comments as for Côte de Lechet 2008 above but with extra concentration. Drink from 2011/12. Truly remarkable and Excellent.
2007    From vines planted in 1955. How could the Côte de lechet 2007 be better. It can’t, but this is different. Very elegant nose from very concentrated fruit, showing floral minerals, intensity, spices, and great length. This is an absolute knockout with seafood. Drink 2010/11 for 6 years, maybe more. Excellent.
2006    Elegant fruit and terrifically balanced acidity, citrus fruits, pineapple and mango, exotic, tightly intense, expansive, very rich, long, and complex. Drink 2010 for many years. Excellent.
Les Lys – Wines of elegance and finesse.
2008    Floral fruit with soft acidity, very mineral, great length and aftertaste, dry finish but in the nicest sense, elegant and feminine. Drink from 2011. Very Good.
2007    Closed nose, delicious fruit, peachy, with elegance and finesse, a fine balance, and clean finish. A wine of class. Still needs a year. Drink 2010 to 2016. Excellent.
Vaillons – The best Vaillons by far.
2008    Closed on the nose but palate shows lovely fruit with delicious mouth puckering acidity, yellow fruits, nutty, mineral typicité, perfumed, long and beautiful aftertaste. Lovely wine. Drink from 2011. Excellent.
2007    Gentle nose here, elegant, floral, and feminine, with kiwi and passion fruit, some intensity, good length and a crisp clean finish. Drink 2010 to 2016. Very Good.
2006    Gentle fruit on nose, some elegance, floral and feminine, with kiwi and passion fruit again, good intensity, length and aftertaste, and a crisp clean finish. Delicious. Drinking now, so enjoy for 4 to 5 years. Excellent.
GRANDS CRUS
Bougros 2006    Closed nose, a little smoky, this is a big powerful wine, masculine and rich. Fills the mouth with wonderful intense fruit, lots of acidity for longevity, with excellent length and finish. Drink 2012 onwards. Excellent.
Vaudésir2007    Forget that this is a négociant wine – this is very good. Nose of typicité, elegant intense powerful fruit with great length and aftertaste. Lovely minerality and all round typicité. Drink 2012 onwards. Very Good.

LE GUIDE HACHETTE 2010
Chablis 2007 *
The Chablis from domain Bernard Defaix was awarded as one of the best on vintage 2005 ("coup de coeur"). The 2007 shows a very expressive nose, its floral aromas are supported by a good minerality. It is the same as for the mouth : an intense and straight forward attack reveals strong notes of honeysuckle. Length, fineness, purity, all the characteristics of a great Chablis. Perfect to marry with grilled fish, in one or two years.
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet 2007*
For a winegrower in Milly, the Premier Cru Côte de Lechet stands to reason. The Bernard Defaix domain kept with tradition, producing a wine for ageing, that will opens up in the cellar, and which, at present, only expresses notes of gun-flint, typical of the terroir. A 2007 wine in evolution and which is full of promises.
Also mentionned, the 1er Cru Les Lys 2007 is more aromatic in mouth. To drink from now, preferably at the aperitif.
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2007**
This Bougros lacked almost nothing to get a “coup de coeur” like the 2000 vintage. It will have to do with two stars, like the 2005 one. This wine, very greedy,  reveals vanilla and brioche notes to the nose. The butter comes with flavours of dried fruit and citrus fruit. Roundness and liveliness bring harmony and style. You feel like the whole terroir is sitting at table, with roasted scallop, for example.
More mineral but less complex, the Grand Cru Vaudésir 2007 shows a good balance on a basis of citrus, and in that way gets a star. However, regarding these two wines, one’s will have to be patient, 4 to 5 years.
Rully 1er cru Clos du Chapitre 2007*
Hélène Jaeger took over, in 2002 the domain of her great aunt Henriette Niepce, descendant of Nicéphore Niepce, the photography’s inventor. She shows here, in association with her husband Didier Defaix, wine grower in Chablis, a red Rully of a great fineness. After a garnet-red colour, one’s finds a rich nose of blue fruit and coffee notes. After a soft attack, the mouth is filled with a dense and full substance, structured by delicate and elegant tannins. Final notes of ripe fruit and spices prolong the pleasure. To taste in two or three years’ time with some game.
A finish a little pungent, overtones of flower and vanilla distinguish the white 1er Cru Mont-Palais 2007, mentionned.

LES MEILLEURS VINS DE FRANCE 2010 (Guide vert) 

Domaine Bernard Defaix
Sylvain and Didier Defaix are now managing the family domain, whose vineyard is situated on the left bank of the Serein river. Their Chablis is lively and floral, their 1st cru are a bit less known than those of the right bank, but reserve beautiful surprises in the hot years, particularly on terroirs of Côte de Lechet. Thanks to skilfull vinification and to ageing on the fine lees in tank, the wines gain more fat and are protected against oxidation. The wines from the wine-merchant business are just having the brand Bernard Defaix.
The wines : fine vintage, fresh and straight, 2007 shows fruity fineness on the Petit Chablis ; The Chablis is well-rounded, very much lemon-flavoured. And then, the Chablis Vieille Vigne is more smoky. Coming from the Milly domain, the Côte de Lechet Réserve 2007 is one of the best Chablis of this area, as much for its maturity as for its precision. The strong minerality of the Vaillons needs 5 to 6 years of ageing.
Chablis Premier Cru Côte de Lechet Réserve 2007         16/20
Chablis Premier Cru Les Vaillons 2007        15/20
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2007     14,5/20
Chablis Premier Cru Côte de Lechet 2007      14,5/20
Chablis 2007       14/20

Domaine Jaeger-DefaixIn 2002, Hélène Jaeger took over her first plot on Rully 1er cru coming  from her great-aunt Henriette Niepce, descendant of the famous inventor Niepce, and then the whole domain in 2005. Wife of Didier Defaix, wine grower in Chablis, she applies there the principles of great wines with plowed soils and manual harvests. The wines are vinified in Chablis’s cellar that has all necessary equipment; the white wines are fermented and aged in barrels.
The wines :  the Rully white Les Cloux is supple and pleasant, while Rabourcé has a final a little warmer. Both red wines show quite easy.
Rully Premier Cru Les Cloux 2007   13,5/20
Rully Premier Cru Rabourcé 2007   13,5/20

LE GRAND GUIDE DES VINS DE FRANCE 2010, Bettane & Desseauve

Didier Defaix manages the family domain, which offers a large range of seven wines, completed with a little activity of wine merchant, specially with the Grands Crus, under the brand of Bernard Defaix. The Côte de Lechet Réserve is at the top, as it often is.
Chablis 2007     12,5/20
Floral, well balanced, with a medium strength, although quite fragant.
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Bernard Defaix 2007            14,5/20
Powerful, a good volume in the mouth, hearty aromas of white and yellow fruit. Well-balanced.Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir Bernard Defaix 2007      14/20
Powerful, a rather rich nose and the same in the mouth, more in width than in length.
Chablis Premier Cru Côte de Lechet 2007     14/20
Floral, with a rounded mouth, a pure and fresh finish.
Chablis Premier Cru Côte de Lechet Réserve 2007               14,5/20
More fragant, more fruity than the "regular" Côte de Lechet.
Chablis Premier Cru Les Lys 2007 13,5/20
Floral, with undergrowth notes. The mouth is really well-rounded, a  wine to drink from now.
Chablis Premier Cru Les Vaillons 2007      14/20
More fleshy than Les Lys, with a tenser mouth, a better balance.
Chablis Vieille Vigne 2007      13,5/20
Elegant, well-rounded, a good maturity, with fat in the mouth.
Petit Chablis 2007    12/20
Sinewy, though with a little lack of body and substance.

BOURGOGNE AUJOURD'HUI n°87 APRIL-MAY 2009
Chablis 1er cru Cote de Lechet 2007 - 15/20
A Chablis which asserts volume and maturity in the mouth. The finish is a little more strict. As well the nose seems reserved. The whole combination  has to melt away with ageing. A wine in evolution.
Chablis 2007 - 15/20
The nose is really the one of a Chablis wine : straight and mineral. The mouth is rich,  of a higher fullness than the average in that vintage. The finish is fresh. An harmonious Chablis.

BURGHOUND.COM, oct 2008 - Allen Meadows

Didier Defaix said that 2007 was, in a sense, "the exact opposite of 2006. In 2006, it was a mad rush to get the fruit in as there was some rot pressure even though acidities weren't really changing much. In 2007, we began picking on the 12th of September and harvested over a leisurely 3 weeks as the fruit was very clean. We weren't really affected seriously by the hail storms and lost perhaps 10% of the total crop. Sugars ranged between 11 and 13% with solid but not really high acidities. We did a normal lees settling because the fruit was so clean though we did a fair amount of lees stirring as the wines seemed borderline severe during their élevage. The primary fermentation went off without a hitch though I was surprised that the malos also proceeded normally as there was a lot of malic acid. The malos made a fairly dramatic impact as the finishing pHs averaged right around 3.3, which is not especially low. In terms of the wines, for me 2007 is a more concentrated 2004. The 2004s were stricter young, which is another reason why we decided to work more with the lees in '07 than we did in '04." The Defaix 2006s have turned out more or less as originally previewed with no surprises up or down. It's clear though that while they're lovely wines, they're not in the class of the Defaix '04s, '05s or '07s, particularly the latter and I especially recommend them to readers and Chablis fans should add the Defaix brothers to their short list of rising stars. (Winebow, Inc, Montvale, NJ; Alliance Wines and Domaine Direct, UK).
2007 Petit Chablis: An expressive green fruit and sea salt nose leads to racy, intense and attractively mineral-infused flavors that possess lovely underlying tension and energy plus better than average length. Very fine quality at this level. 87/2010+
2007 Chablis: A classic Chablis nose features oyster shell, sea shore notes and iodine suffused green fruit that complements slightly bigger and richer flavors that also offer excellent intensity on the long, bone dry and stony finish. There is nothing else that this could be except Chablis. 88/2011+
2007 Chablis – Vieilles Vignes: (from 45+ year old vines that see 20% oak but no new wood and no cold stabilization). In 2007, this closely resembles the aromatic profile and character of the straight Chablis except there is more mid-palate concentration as well as superior depth and length. Terrific quality for its level and highly recommended. (88-91)/2011+
2007 Chablis "Les Lys": (this saw 10-15% oak treatment). A ripe, pure and ultra refined nose that is both airy and lacy while displaying softly seductive aromas of sea breeze, white pear, spice hints and iodine nuances that continue onto the intense, detailed and superbly precise middle weight flavors that are a study in delicacy yet deliver outstanding flavor authority on the austere and understated finish. I really like the style of this as there is elegance but grip. (89-92)/2012+
2007 Chablis "Vaillons": (almost all Vaillons proper with a bit of Séchet). An overtly spicy nose has lemon zest and sea breeze nuances to the ripe green fruit aromas that merge into almost painfully intense, precise and very firm medium-bodied flavors supported by a solid acid spine and pungent minerality. There is not the finesse here of the Les Lys but this is more powerful. A stylistic choice. (89-92)/2012+
2007 Chablis "Côte de Lechet": As the best examples of Lechet always are, this boasts an ultra elegant nose of citrus blossom, oyster shell, warm stone and lemon zest, the latter of which is also reflected by the textured, racy, detailed and bone dry flavors brimming with plenty of Chablis character on the exceptionally long and austere finish. This is a classic old school style of Chablis. In a word, excellent. (90-92)/2012+
2007 Chablis "Côte de Lechet - Reserve": (from 50+ year old vines aged in 40% oak though none of it is new). A subtle touch of wood highlights a similar if slightly riper nose that has a touch of menthol as well that can be found on the exceptionally rich, layered and intense flavors that possess good size and weight yet lose no sense of detail or delineation because of it, all wrapped in an explosive finish. In sum, an exceptionally promising example. (91-93)/2013+
2007 Chablis "Fourchaume": (from Fourchaume proper). Blind, it would be almost impossible to guess anything other than Chablis as this displays a positively classic nose of salt air, oyster shell and green fruit that is both pure, layered and elegant before giving way to round, naturally sweet and concentrated flavors that stain the palate with sap, all wrapped in a wonderfully intense, powerful and driving finish. Also very promising. (90-93)/2013+
2007 Chablis - Vaudésir: This is also utterly classic with ripe, pure and classy aromas that are set off by a discreet touch of wood before preceding concentrated, deep, layered and notably serious relatively big-bodied flavors yet this remains a wine of finesse and elegance as the minerally finish is both focused and hugely long. The balance is perfect and this could surprise to the upside as there is a huge reserve of underlying material present. (92-94)/2014+
2007 Chablis - Bougrоs: A deft touch of wood seamlessly works into the mix of ripe floral and green fruit aromas that are in keeping with the intense, pure and notably energetic broad-shouldered flavors that explode on the almost brutal finish. This is an impressively scaled, powerful and concentrated wine that is massively long as it is blessed with serious amounts of dry extract and the only nit here is a trace of backend warmth. (91-94)/2014+
2006 Chablis – Vieilles Vignes: (from 45+ year old vines that see 20% oak but no new wood and no cold stabilization). The aromas here are notably ripe with exotic notes of yellow fruit and honeysuckle trimmed in very deft wood that can also be picked up on the very rich, even opulent flavors blessed with ample concentration on the mouth coating finish. Very solid quality though in a style that is clearly marked by the vintage. 88/2009
2006 Chablis "Les Lys": (this saw 10-15% oak treatment). An expressive nose of gentle wood notes and very fresh floral, white peach and pear aromas that merge into round, intense, classy and long flavors that don't have quite the concentration of the Vieilles Vignes but are considerably finer. This is lovely, understated and relatively forward. Worth a look. 90/2010+
2006 Chablis "Vaillons":(almost all Vaillons proper with a bit of Séchet).This too sports a gentle touch of wood that highlights the ripe and spicy but distinctly reduced floral aromas that complement the round, generous, even opulent flavors  culminating in a citrus-infused finish that is delicious but doesn't have the same punch and vibrancy. Be sure to decant this first for 20 minutes or so as the reduction is more than noticeable. 89/2010+
2006 Chablis "Côte de Lechet": An elegant, pure and airy nose of exotic fruit, citrus blossom and lemon rind yields to round yet detailed flavors that exhibit more minerality than any of the preceding wines and possess excellent energy plus more obvious Chablis character. In sum, this is as refined and lovely as the Les Lys but not quite as long. 89/2009+
2006 Chablis "Côte de Léchet - Reserve": (from 50+ year old vines aged in 40% oak though none of it is new). While as usual, this clearly has more material than the regular cuvée, it's actually less elegant though it is exceptionally rich and positively oozes dry extract that drenches the palate on the textured, opulent, dry and powerful finish that is seriously long. There is a bit of wood that comes up on the backend but this is impressively scaled. 90/2010+
2006 Chablis "Fourchaume": (from Fourchaume proper). A deft touch of wood sets off an openly exotic and expressive nose of ripe green and yellow fruit nuanced by hints of sea breeze and iodine that can also be found on the very rich, forward and concentrated medium full flavors that are also textured and mouth coating as there is ample dry extract on the mineral‑infused and opulent finish. 89/2009+
2006 Chablis - Vaudésir:Noticeable but not dominant wood frames spicy and very ripe floral and yellow fruit aromas. The detailed, focused and wonderfully pure flavors are refined, powerful and detailed while culminating in an intense, mouth coating and persistent finish that is almost thick. Compared to the Fourchaume, there is just a bit more of everything, especially mid-palate concentration. 91/2011+
2006 Chablis - Bougros: The prominent wood that this displayed last year has now been almost completely integrated and sets off ripe green and dried yellow fruit aromas that are in keeping with the big, muscled and powerful flavors that are thick, lush and opulent, all wrapped in a delicious and explosive finish that is both balanced and mouth coating. This is a dramatic wine and while it's not my style, a tip of the cap for managing to keep such a big wine focused. 91/2011+

Domaine Jaeger-Defaix (RulIy)
This is a new domaine whose first vintage was 2003. It is run by Didier Defaix (see Chablis) as the vineyards belonged to the great aunt of his wife, who until the Defaix' took over, sold the production as grapes. The domaine comprises 4 ha with five 1ers and as the vineyards are slowly brought under the Defaix team's management, they will expand production. The grapes are presently vinified in Chablis, which makes for a roughly two hour drive. Interestingly, Defaix suggested that 2007 "needs time, perhaps even more than 2005 in white though the reds should come around relatively quickly." (Winebow, Inc, Montvale, NJ; Alliance Wines and Domaine Direct, all UK).
Whites:
2007 Rully "Mont Palais": A very subtle touch of wood sets off ripe aromas of honeysuckle and citrus that merge into supple, round and agreeable flavors that possess reasonably good detail and fine finishing precision. A balanced effort with fine length. (88-90)/2011+
2007 Rully "Les Cloux":Brioche and vanilla notes presently struggle with reticent white flower aromas that introduce more concentrated and intense medium-bodied flavors that benefit from solid acid support on the rich, minerally and long finale. Lovely if a bit too woody for me but note that the wood does not upset the overall balance. (89-91)/2011+
2007 Rully "Rabourcé": A moderately toasty nose frames white flower and lemon zest notes that complement the rich, full and naturally sweet middle weight flavors that finish with a seductive texture, fine depth and excellent length. This is almost a hypothetical blend of the prior two wines. Recommended. (89-92)/2012+
2006 Rully "Mont Palais": This is quite ripe with a floral and muscat suffused nose with medium weight flavors that possess excellent intensity and punch on the notably mineral finish. This is quite dry and should age well for 1 to 2 years. 88/2010+
2006 Rully "Les Cloux": A ripe but not necessarily exotic nose of green apple and acacia blossom marry into pure and more refined flavors that also possess a fine minerality on the detailed, racy and precise finish where the present level of depth is quite good if not sensational. Worth a look. 90/2010+
2006 Rully "Rabourcé": As was the case in 2007, this is almost like a blend of the Les Cloux and Mont Palais with its lightly exotic floral-infused nose that is followed by rich, full, pure and relatively powerful flavors that possess solid dry extract that confers an almost chewy texture to the mouth coating finish. This is not an elegant wine but there is plenty of both personality and character. 90/2011+
Reds:
2007 Rully "Préaux": A very fresh and actually quite ripe nose of red berry fruit that evidences subtle earth notes that give way to supple, round and detailed medium-bodied flavors that possess good energy and mildly dry finish. I would suggest drinking this on the young side. (86-88)/2010+
2007 Rully "Clos du Chapitre": Very mild oak toast notes combine with ripe red raspberry, cherry and warm earth aromas lead to rich, round, forward and supple flavors that are easy but not simple with a tasty and tangy finish. There is a bit better phenolic ripeness evident on the structural elements and this should repay 2 to 4 years of cellar time. (86-89)/2011+
2006 Rully "Préaux": A very pretty red pinot fruit nose that displays very discreet sauvage, underbrush and earth nuances that are in keeping with the supple, round and relatively sophisticated tannins that culminate in a delicious, textured, complex and utterly delicious finish. One could easily drink this now. 88/2009+
2006 Rully "Clos du Chapitre":  Light ruby. A considerably higher-toned, and highly expressive, nose of raspberry and cranberry aromas transitions very supple, forward and delicious flavors that possess more finesse than is typically displayed
by wines from this appellation. Approachable now. 87/now+

LE GUIDE HACHETTE 2009 
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lehet 2006* : Honesty and balance, two words which characterize the  wines of the domain. And on top of that this rusticity which symbolizes the Côte de Lechet. The nose still a little bit shy but already complex reveals citrus fruits and white flowers notes on an elegant wooded bottom. The mouth is more expressive, tinged with minerality which imposes its style, with some toasted notes. The proof of a well managed ageing. A salmon (smoked, of course!) would be the good match.
Rully 1er cru Préaux red 2006 : Hélène Jaeger and her husband, Didier Defaix, do the splits over Burgundy: one foot in Chablis and, since 2002, the other foot in Côte Chalonnaise with these 4.50 ha on Rully. The nose intensity of this 2006 is still discreet, but already complex: red fruits, vanilla and prune. The mouth is soft and supple, elegant and fruity. The melted tannins compose in finale a velvety cover. Flattering from now on, a wine to be served on delicatessen.

LES MEILLEURS VINS DE FRANCE 2009 (Guide vert) 
Domaine Bernard Defaix
Sylvain and Didier Defaix are now managing the family domain situated on the left bank of the Serein river. Their Chablis is frank and floral, their 1st cru are a bit less known than those of the right bank, but reserve beautiful surprises in the hot years, particularly on terroirs of Côte de Lechet. Thanks to skilful vinification and to ageing on the fine lees in tank, the wines gain more fat and are protected against the oxidation. The wines from the wine-merchant business are just having the brand Bernard Defaix.
The wines : The vintage 2006 is more suitable for the lemony simplicity of the Petit Chablis than for the Chablis, pleasant but in which we smell a bit too much the alcoholic heat of the vintage.
The Vieille Vigne (45 years old) still presents its usual generous bouquet of bergamot orange and basil. The wines have to be drunk from now. Concerning the premier crus,  menthol and chalk characterize the underrated Premier cru of  Milly, The Lys, more liquorice on the finish than the jewel of the series, The Côte de Lechet Réserve. The wine-merchant business selection is more common because of lacteous woodiness very pronounced on the Fourchaume and up to the Grands crus  which do not miss length (Bougros in particular).
Domaine Jaeger-Defaix
In 2002 Hélène Jaeger took over her first plot on Rully 1er cru coming  from her great-aunt Henriette Niepce, descendant of the famous inventor Niepce, and then the whole domain in 2005. Wife of Didier Defaix, wine grower in Chablis, she applies there the principles of great wines with worked soils and manual harvests. The wines are vinified in Chablis’s cellar that has all necessary equipment; the white wines pass in casks.
The wines: In white, the Rully Premier cru Mont Palais possesses a nice mineral nose, associated with a full and woody mouth; the structure is imposing with a beautiful maturity.
The Rully Premier cru Rabourcé is ample, fleshy and woody with a good structure, whereas the Rully Premier cru Cloux is elegant and rather racy. In red, the Rully Premier cru Preaux is fragrant and rather fine, and the Rully Premier cru Clos du Chapitre, coming from a plot completely closed by stone walls, possesses a light and fragrant structure, very elegant; the whole is long and fine.

LE GRAND GUIDE DES VINS DE FRANCE 2009, Bettane & Desseauve
Didier Defaix manages the family domain, which proposes a wide range of  7 wines (1 Petit Chablis, 2 Chablis, et 4 Chablis Premier cru) and completes this list with a small wine-merchant activity, in particular with Grands crus  under the brand Bernard Defaix. On the beginning of the range (Petit Chablis and Chablis), we could wait for a bit more expression and personality; but the superior cuvées (Vieille Vigne, Premiers and Grands Crus) are gourmand and pure, with careful ageing.
Chablis Grand cru Bougros 2006 (16/20) : The mouth is neat, with a round attack.  It is a pulpy wine, that tightens at the end of mouth. Good tension. Careful ageing.
Chablis Grand cru Vaudésir 2006 (15.5/20) : A delicate and  fine wine, with a great ageing. White fruits on the nose and a spicy and toasted touch on the mouth.
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet 2006 (15/20) : A discreet nose, but with frank and neat aromas. The mouth is ripe, with a great salinity. Good minerality for this complete and elegant wine. 
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet Réserve 2006 (15.5/20) : Touches of citrus fruits and yellow fruits. The mouth is pure with notes of sweet spices. 
Chablis 1er cru Fourchaume 2006 (15.5/20) : Pure, concentrated, ripe. The mouth is round with citrus fruits on the finish.
Chablis 1 er cru Vaillons 2006 (15/20) : A more concentrated wine than The Lys. The aromas of the mouth are gourmand. Round finish, a wine with a good flesh.
Chablis Vieille Vigne 2006 (14.5/20) : The nose is fine and delicate, ripe and frank. The attack is net, frank, it is a pure and delicate wine.

BOURGOGNE AUJOURD’HUI October-November 2007 
Domaine Jaeger-Defaix
This domain of 4.5 hectares ( 100 % on Rully) is managed by Hélène Jaeger-Defaix (little niece of Henriette Niepce) since 2005, she is married with Didier Defaix who runs the domain Bernard Defaix in Chablis. The two domains are  separated for the work in the vineyard, but they work together for the winemaking and the marketing of the Chablis and Rully’s.
Rully 1er cru white Mont Palais 2005: “A nice terroir wine with a fresh and mineral style, with a good persistency on the mouth” comments a seduced taster. 
Rully 1er cru white Rabourcé 2005 : A nice and complex nose  with minerality and white flowers.  The wine is fresh, pure, mentholated, elegant with a good length.Rully 1er cru red Clos du Chapitre 2005 : As a lot of 2005’s red wines, the wine is closed up. But the richness of the texture, the purity of the fruit and the length on the mouth are announcing a very promising future.

BOURGOGNE AUJOURD’HUI April-May 2008 special premier cru and grand cru 2006

This domain is a good example of the evolutions we would like to see more often in Chablis. The 2 brothers Defaix, Sylvain et Didier, are making a very rigorous work in the vineyard. The disbudding (process that consists in eliminating the superfluous buds at springtime) is always made here. And twice more than one time. 'In 2006, we have even made 2 disbuddings. And I don't regret it." The enrichment are also very reasoned. So you won't be surprised to to taste here Chablis' with a great concentration. You can add to this the preservation of an old vines patrimony: the wines coming from there, chablis vieille vigne and premier cru cote-de-lechet Reserve, have a magnificent depth without loosing the chablisian freshness. The domain spreads over 26 hectares and, curiosity, works also on 4 hectares in Rully (côte chalonnaise); a vineyard owned by Hélène Jaeger, the wife of Didier Defaix.

Premier cru Fourchaume 2006: Very nice nose, elegant and distinguished that leans on ripe fruits notes, a grilled woody and mineral hints. The mouth is remarkable by its balance and its frankness. The finish is subbtle and tasty with a good use of wood. A wine with a great potential for ageing.
Premier cru Vaillons 2006: A complex nose with honey, wax, candied lemon and grilled hazelnut. The mouth is round with a good tension and notes of truffles and chalk. The finish is long and delicious with a great minerality. A great bottle.
Premier cru Cote de Lechet 2006: Nice and expressive nose, on hazelnut, almond with a nice toasted-grilled. On the mouth, the wine is very nice, supple and rich with an integrated woody.
Grand Cru Bougros 2006: Nose full and open on ripe fruits aromas with spicy notes. The attack on mouth is fresh, followed by a full mid-mouth and a persistant finish. A wine with a great fineness.

LA REVUE DU VIN DE FRANCE special vintage 2007
Chablis 1er cru Cote de Lechet 2007 (rated between 17.5 and 15.5/20): A high level wine. Volume, rectitude, persistancy: Didier Defaix confirms his high level of production with this Lechet and also with the Vaillons (15.5/20) all on fineness and chalky reserve. Obviously Chablis' from the terroir.
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2007 (17/20) and Vaudésir 2007 (16/20): Fineness and volume, with a great length all on subtlety. The Vaudesir associates vulume and freshness and a finish also subtle. The domain is on top from.

Rabourcé et Cloux under the spot lights: our rully's are a big hit on an US TV show performed by Gary Vaynerchuk for the Wine Library, one of the most important shop on the East coast in the US: watch the video

VINTAGE ASSESSMENTS, CANADA - July 2008
Chablis 1er cru Cote de Lechet 2005 - Classy **+/*** - Recommended
Bright light straw colour. Classy, fairly intense, nutty, ripe lemon nose with hints of melon and lots of minerality. Dry, well structured, medium bodied, ripe lemon-melon flavours with a rich mid palate and a bright, slightly nutty lemon-melon-tinged finish.

BURGHOUND.COM, October 2007
Domaine Bernard Defaix - Chablis
Didier Defaix said that 2006 was "a bit like 2005 in the sense that we had a wet August and a splendid September. The trick in 2006 though was choosing the date of the harvest and it was no cinch to make this decision because the acidity was declining very slowly so it wasn't obvious. We began picking on September 18th and brought in slightly lower yields than normal with sugars that averaged between 12 and 13.5%. Both fermentations proceeded relatively easily and they were fast. We normally do an extended élevage but in 2006, we removed all but the fine lees as the wines were already rich enough and I wanted to avoid inadvertently creating heavy or inelegant wines." I have said it before but it bears repeating: The improvement at this estate has been nothing short of phenomenal. Chablis fans should add the Defaix brothers to their short list of rising stars.
(Winebow, Inc, Montvale, NJ; Alliance Wines and Domaine Direct, UK).
2006 Petit Chablis: Here the nose is quite ripe but not really exotic with aromas of yellow orchard fruits that introduce delicious, round and supple flavors that possess good concentration for a wine at this level. This is easy to like with enough punch to be interesting. 86/now+
2006 Chablis: A more expressive and slightly fresher nose is, interestingly enough, not quite as ripe with more obvious Chablis character that leads to vibrant flavors that possess good detail and better depth. 87/now+
2006 Chablis Vieilles Vignes: (from 45 year old vines that see 20% oak but no new wood and no cold stabilization). The aromas here are also notably ripe with notes of yellow fruit and honeysuckle trimmed in very deft wood that can also be picked up on the very rich, even opulent flavors blessed with ample concentration and a mouth coating finish. (86-89)/2008+
2006 Chablis "Les Lys": (this saw 10-15% oak treatment). An expressive nose of gentle wood notes and floral, white peach and pear aromas that merge into round, intense, classy and long flavors that don't have quite the concentration of the Vieilles Vignes but are considerably finer. This is lovely, understated and relatively forward. (89-91)/2009+
2006 Chablis "Vaillons": (almost all Vaillons proper with a bit of Séchet). This too sports a gentle touch of wood that highlights the ripe and spicy floral aromas that complement the round, generous, even opulent flavors that culminate in a citrus-infused finish that is delicious but doesn't have the same punch and vibrancy. (88-90)/2009+
2006 Chablis "Côte de Léchet": An elegant, pure and airy nose of citrus blossom and lemon rind yields to round yet detailed flavors that exhibit more minerality than any of the preceding wines that possess excellent energy plus more obvious Chablis character. Lovely. (89-91)/2010+
2006 Chablis "Côte de Léchet Réserve": (from 50 year old vines aged in 40% oak though none of it is new). While as usual, this clearly has more material than the regular cuvée, it's actually less elegant though it is exceptionally rich and positively oozes dry extract that drenches the palate on the textured, opulent and powerful finish that is seriously long. Qualitatively, these wines are identical but stylistically, they are worlds apart. A choice. (89-91)/2010+
2006 Chablis "Fourchaume" (from Fourchaume proper). A deft touch of wood sets off an expressive nose of ripe green fruit nuanced by hints of sea breeze and iodine that can also be found on the very rich and concentrated medium full flavors that are also textured and mouth coating as there is ample dry extract on the mineral-infused finish. Good juice that should age over the medium term. (89-92)/2011+
2006 Chablis Vaudésir: Noticeable but not dominant wood that stops short of being intrusive and fights somewhat with the spicy and very ripe floral and yellow fruit aromas. The detailed, focused and wonderfully pure flavors are refined and detailed while culminating in an intense finish brimming with Chablis character. Compared to the Fourchaume, there is just a bit more of everything. (90-93)2011+
2006 Chablis Bougros: Even more prominent wood that is now no longer discreet tussles with ripe green and yellow fruit aromas that are in keeping with the big, muscled and powerful flavors that are thick, lush and opulent, all wrapped in a delicious and explosive finish that is both balanced and mouth coating. This is a dramatic wine and while it's not my style; a tip of the cap for managing to keep such a big wine focused. (90-93)/2011+
2005 Chablis Vieilles Vignes: (from 45 year old vines that see 20% oak but no new wood and no cold stabilization). The wood has now largely integrated and does not prevent notes of citrus, pear and iodine from soaring from the glass. The flavors are ripe, rich and admirably powerful and punchy with plenty of acid support on the long mineral-infused finish. The only nit is a slight touch of warmth but overall, this is a very impressive effort at this level and definitely worth a look. 89/2009+
2005 Chablis "Les Lys": (this saw 10 15% oak treatment). The wood here is also much more modulated as the floral and seaweed inflected nose is airy and high-toned with pretty and nicely refined middle weight flavors that are supple yet precise, all wrapped around a ripe core of acidity and an energetic finish where notes of oyster shell can be found too. Lovely and a candidate for medium term aging.90/2010+
2005 Chablis "Vaillons": (almost all Vaillons proper with a bit of Séchet). Subtle notes of pain grillé and wood spice frame white flower and citrus aromas that are distinctly riper than those of the Les Lys and this too has excellent vibrancy to the medium full flavors that cut like knife on the persistent and seriously intense finish that is notably dry. This has real personality and plenty of Chablis character.90/2011+
2005 Chablis "Côte de Léchet": Pain grillé and brioche notes highlight the intense lemon/lime nose as well as the rich, full, delicious and pungently mineral flavors that are almost painfully intense, particularly on the chiseled and driving linear finish that possesses a potent mix of oyster shell, iodine and seaweed nuances. Terrific potential fashioned in a rather old school style that won't be for those who are looking for easy and round Chablis. 91/2011+
2005 Chablis "Côte de Léchet Réserve": (from 50 year old vines aged in 50% oak though none of it is new). Take the straight Côte de Léchet and dial up slightly the size, richness, intensity and sheer palate impact and you have this wine. It's very impressive, the wood has integrated and it oozes Chablis character with both oyster shell and that wonderful saline component, all wrapped in an explosive finish of serious length. It should reward 5 to 7 years of cellar time. 92/2012+
2005 Chablis "Fourchaume": Moderate wood serves as a backdrop for very ripe aromas of peach, white pear and seaweed that introduce intense, powerful and relatively big flavors that offer plenty of volume and this just brims with minerality on the muscular finish. This is really quite a forceful wine and while acidity is certainly ripe, this is a structured effort that will definitely benefit from a few years in the cellar. As good as it is though, it seems almost easy after the Léchet Réserve. 90/2010+
2005 Chablis Vaudésir: Much more obvious wood combines with even riper aromas that stop just short of being exotic and the big, powerful and solidly structured flavors are a wonderful combination of grace and strength all wrapped in simply stunning length. Despite some aromatic flamboyance, the finish is understated and classic Chablis with ample oyster shell character on the very dry finish. Outstanding cellar potential with this one. 92/2012+
2005 Chablis Bougros: Most of the upper level wines have displayed varying degrees of wood influence but here it's been largely eaten thus giving center stage to the fresh and pure citrus and white flower aromas that introduce thick, opulent, even unctuous flavors that drench and stain the palate with buckets of sap and this is the longest wine among these '05s as the length simply does not quit. This is not really my preferred style as it's more Côte d'Or than Chablis but there is no denying that this is one seriously impressive wine and it's not just a matter of size and weight, it's balanced too and will age. 93/2012+

Domaine Jaeger-Defaix - Rully
This is a brand new domaine whose first vintage was 2003. It is run by Didier Defaix (see Chablis) as the vineyards belonged to the great aunt of his wife, who until the Defaix' took over, sold the production as grapes. The domaine comprises 4 ha with 5 1ers and as the vineyards are slowly brought under the Defaix team's management, they will expand production. The grapes are presently vinified in Chablis, which makes for a roughly two hour drive. As such, Defaix did not have samples of his '06s available but I did have a chance to revisit the '05s that are now in bottle. (Winebow, Inc, Montvale, NJ; Alliance Wines and Domaine Direct, all UK).
2005 Rully"Mont Palais" white: Subtle pain grillé, vanilla, citrus and white pear aromas overlay round, rich and textured flavors that possess good detail and overall, this is wine of finesse rather than power with a tangy and attractively dry finish. A very nice if slightly woody effort. 88/2008+
2005 Rully"Les Cloux" white : Subtle wood with a hint of vanilla frames ripe green fruit aromas and round, rich, even opulent and sweet flavors that offer good volume and mid-palate fat plus serious intensity on the very dry finish. There is a pretty touch of finishing minerality and though the wood resurfaces as well, it's more of a nuance than something intrusive. 90/2010+
2005 Rully"Rabourcé" white: Here the moderately wooded nose displays notes of citrus, pear as well as ripe green fruit and subtle menthol aromas that can also be found on the bigger and richer flavors that culminate in a very dry and more structured finish. This is quite ripe with a focused, punch and bone dry finish. Excellent potential here as there is a lot of dry extract which will allow the wine to age over the medium term. Terrific. 90/2010+
2005 Rully "Préaux" red : A wonderfully seductive nose redolent of dark cherry and very pinot red fruit aromas is followed by rich, sweet and delicious light to middle weight flavors that are surprisingly fine. This is not a big or particularly structured wine but it is very attractive in a simple yet elegant fashion. 88/2009+
2005 Rully"Clos du Chapitre" red: More deeply pitched aromas of dark red and blue fruits, particularly plum, introduce earthy, rich, full and sweet flavors that are also utterly delicious, all wrapped in a more structured and powerful finish. This offers excellent quality for a Rully red and is recommended. 89/2011+

VINTAGE ASSESSMENT (Canada) July 2008 
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet 2005
Bright light straw colour. Classy, fairly intense, nutty, ripe lemon nose with hints of melon and lots of minerality. Dry, well structured, medium bodied, ripe lemon-melon flavours with a rich mid palate and a bright, slightly nutty lemon-melon-tinged finish.

LE GUIDE HACHETTE 2008: one of our wines selected as a favorite
Chablis 2005: Here, they practise an environmentally friendly viticulture. It is not the only quality of this domain, according to the big jury which selected this Chablis as their favorite. Of clear color, straw of rye, it amazes by its three graces worthy of Botticelli: freshness, frankness and complexity. The aromatic style, classic and well established, plays on notes of white flowers and fresh citrus fruits. And it stays in the mouth…
Chablis 1er cru Les Lys 2005** : This "climat" (area) integrated sometimes into Vaillons can justly claim its name. In the South of Milly and near of Chablis, a 1st historical cru. Pale, greenish gold, flint and undergrowth, foam, it knows how to introduce its self. Tank and barrel, but the wood is hardly detectable. Perfectly mellow and structured, it will wait until 2010 of course. A bottle like this one inspires respect.
Chablis GranCru Bougros 2005**: Bougros has already brought chance to the family Defaix (selected as favorite for 2000 vintage). Other example of a domain creating at the same time a negociant business. This 2005? Bouquet revealing a fine complexity: notes of ageing (twelve months in barrel), but also of spices and fruits. Minerality of course. A serious work for classic Bougros. We know that this grand cru is strong, but not until the hardness and it is all its secret. Sensation of liquorice's and mentholated freshness in mouth. " To have in the cellar ", concludes an enthusiastic wine taster.
Rully 1er cru Clos du Chapitre 2005 rouge** : Granddaughter of the famous photographer Janine Niepce and the daughter of the first Frenchman who reached the summit of the Everest, Hélène Jaeger (wife of Didier Defaix, domain Bernard Defaix in Chablis) took in 2002 the managing of the domain of her great-aunt Henriette Niepce in Rully (4 ha). Her Clos du Chapitre red is a very admirably presented wine. Its bouquet combines the charms of the undergrowth and the fruit of strawberry. The mouth is rich and structured by present but very fine tannins: power and balance, elegance and fineness. We shall wait for this bottle two or three years calmly. Do not miss either the Rully 1er cru Rabourcé blanc 2005*, nor the Rully 1er cru Mont-Palais blanc 2005.

THE BEST OF WINE IN IRELAND 2008
Chablis 1er cru Les Lys 2005
Ripe citrus fruit with a hint of honey, cut through with a mineral delicacy and citrussy acidity. Concentrated, focused finish with lime and minerals.

LES MEILLEURS VINS DE FRANCE 2008 (guide vert): the Chablis' domain confirms its position and the one in Rully makes its entrance
Domaine Bernard Defaix
Sylvain and Didier Defaix are now managing the family domain situated on the left bank of the Serein river. Their Chablis is lively and floral, their 1st cru are a bit less known than those of the right bank, but reserve beautiful surprises in the hot years, particularly on terroirs of Côte de Lechet. Thanks to skilful vinification and to ageing on the fine lees in tank, the wines gain more fat and are protected against the oxidation.
The wines: even if all the wines don't have a perfect aromatic precision (Petit Chablis and Lys 2005, notably), the good choice can be made with the Côte de Lechet Vieille Vigne, always very personal, all on length. Bougros possesses an impressive strength which will quieten after five years of ageing in cellar, whereas Vaudésir asserts with fineness and right now.
Domaine Jaeger-Defaix
This small domain of the Côte chalonnaise makes its entrance to the guide. Only 4,5 ha of vineyard, perfectly managed, the soils are plowed. This domain belongs to Hélène Jaeger, wife of Didier Defaix, wine grower in Chablis. The harvesting is manual and vinified in the cellar, in Chablis. The whites are vinified in barrels.
The wines: the Rully Mont-Palais is precise and refined, an great maturity underlined by judicious using of wood, a beautiful and tense texture and a good persistency. The Cloux is of a good dimension, more fat, with notes of milk toffy. The reds are gourmand. The Clos du Chapitre possesses an intense fruit, a rather flexible and easily digestible texture. The Préaux is a real juice of cherry, with a little less structure and a small vegetale touch at the end of the mouth.

LA REVUE DU VIN DE FRANCE, July/August 2007
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2005: 16/20 Elegant wine, a great length with a "strong" final as often on this grand cru
Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir 2005: 15/20 Elegant and dense with a good maturity. Final a bit hard and woody for the moment

LA REVUE DU VIN DE FRANCE, June 2007, special vintage 2006
Chablis Grand cru Vaudésir 2006 : The whole wine is indisputably rich and deep, but without heaviness nor vulgarity. In the mouth, the strength is here, the acidity revives well a round structure.
Rully 1er cru Mont-Palais 2006 : Nice flavours, beautiful acidity in attack, wood integrated into a round continuation with fat and good length.

LA REVUE DU VIN DE FRANCE, October 2007
Domaine Jaeger-Defaix
Premier cru Clos du Chapitre red 2005
Hélène Jaeger-Defaix, the wife of Didier Defaix from domaine Bernard Defaix in Chablis, took over the domaine of her great-aunt between 2002 and 2005. Entirely closed with stone walls, the Clos du Chapitre is located on the Premier cru Chapitre. For the first vinification, the mouth is dense and very elegant. Beautiful final.

BOURGOGNE AUJOURD'HUI October-November 2007
Domaine Jaeger-Defaix
This domain of 4.5 hectares ( 100 % on Rully) is managed by Hélène Jaeger-Defaix (little niece of Henriette Niepce) since 2005, she is married with Didier Defaix who runs the domain Bernard Defaix in Chablis. The two domains are separated for the work in the vineyard, but they work together for the winemaking and the marketing of the Chablis and Rully's.
Rully 1er cru white Mont Palais 2005: "A nice terroir wine with a fresh and mineral style, with a good persistency on the mouth" comments a seduced taster.
Rully 1er cru white Rabourcé 2005 : A nice and complex nose with minerality and white flowers. The wine is fresh, pure, mentholated, elegant with a good length.
Rully 1er cru red Clos du Chapitre 2005 : As a lot of 2005's red wines, the wine is closed up. But the richness of the texture, the purity of the fruit and the length on the mouth are announcing a very promising future.

THE GLOBE AND MAIL, Saturday, Feb 24, 2007
Burgundy fans might want to check out the terrific Bernard Defaix Chablis Cote de Lechet 04, part of the LCBO's February spotlight on Burgundy. This light-bodied, classically styled Chablis (a.k.a.chardonnay from northwestern Burgundy) is deliciously complex, with nuances of flowers, nuts and minerals and a bracingly crisp finish.

BURGHOUND.COM, October 2006:
Domaine Bernard Defaix - Chablis
Didier Defaix said that 2005 was a vintage where "we did not have a great summer but September was perhaps the best that I have ever seen. We had good if not exceptional yields because we dropped plenty of crop and it helped as there was almost no rot and really, nearly perfect cleanliness. Indeed we almost didn't need to sort. Sugars were excellent and the cool evenings allowed the grapes to retain good acidities and solid pHs. In contrast to many of my colleagues, I was comfortable doing plenty of bâtonnage as I thought the wines would benefit from a bit more mid palate richness. For me, 2005 is a really good vintage and while I wouldn't call it a truly great vintage, it's close. It will age and if I had to compare it to recent vintages, I would say that it's a blend of 2003 and 2004 as it has the richness and concentration of the former with the acidity and punch of the latter. More important, I find it to be a complete vintage with everything it needs to reward enthusiasts who like to age Chablis." The improvement at this estate has been nothing short of phenomenal and as the scores and individual wine reviews suggest, this is a flat out spectacular group of wines and in both vintages. Chablis fans should add the Defaix brothers to their short list of rising stars. (Winebow, Inc, Montvale, NJ; Alliance Wines and Domaine Direct, UK).
2005 Petit Chablis: Admirably bright and expressive ripe green fruit leads to delicious, fresh and attractive flavors that possess zesty acidity and ample finishing minerality. A nice example for its level. 86/now+
2005 Chablis: This is more reserved yet more complex with a ripe yet still entirely classic nose that introduces intense, precise and very dry flavors that offer excellent definition and a persistent finish brimming with minerality. This is a terrific villages with ample Chablis character and recommended. 88/2008+
2005 Chablis Vieilles Vignes: (from 45 year old vines that see 20% oak but no new wood and no cold stabilization). The wood is presently not particularly subtle though notes of citrus, pear and iodine are evident. The flavors are ripe, rich and admirably powerful and punchy with plenty of acid support on the long finish. This will probably always have some wood influence yet the concentration is sufficient that this should integrate the oak over time. Assuming that it does, this should make for one impressive wine for its level. (87 90)/2009+
2005 Chablis "Les Lys": (this saw 10-15% oak treatment). The wood here is also not particularly subtle though it's presently less intrusive as the nose is airy and high toned with pretty and nicely refined middle weight flavors that are supple yet precise, all wrapped around a ripe core of acidity and an energetic finish. Lovely. (88 91)/2009+
2005 Chablis "Vaillons": (almost all Vaillons proper with a bit of Séchet). Notes of pain grillé and wood spice frame white flower and citrus aromas that are distinctly riper than those of the Les Lys and this too has excellent vibrancy to the medium full flavors that cut like a knife on the persistent and seriously intense finish. This has real personality and plenty of Chablis character. (89 91)/2009+
2005 Chablis "Côte de Léchet": Pain grillé and brioche notes highlight the intense lemon/lime nose as well as the rich, full, delicious and pungently mineral flavors that are almost painfully intense, particularly on the chiseled and driving finish that possesses a potent mix of oyster shell, iodine and seaweed nuances. Terrific potential. (89 92)/2009+
2005 Chablis "Côte de Léchet Réserve": (from 50 year old vines aged in 40% oak though none of it is new). Take the straight Côte de Léchet and dial up slightly the size, richness, intensity and sheer palate impact and you have this wine. It's very impressive and should reward 5 to 7 years of cellar time. (90 92)/2009+
2005 Chablis "Fourchaume": Moderate wood serves as a backdrop for very ripe aromas of peach, white pear and seaweed that introduce intense, powerful and relatively big flavors that offer plenty of volume and this just brims with minerality on the muscular finish. This is really quite a forceful wine and while the acidity is certainly ripe, this is a structured effort that will definitely benefit from a few years in the cellar. (90 92)/2009+
2005 Chablis Vaudésir: Here the wood is already better integrated, combining with even riper aromas that shot just short of being exotic and the big, powerful and solidly structured flavors are a wonderful combination of grace and strength all wrapped in simply stunning length. Outstanding cellar potential with this one. (91 93)/2010+
2005 Chablis Bougros: Most of the upper level wines have displayed varying degrees of wood influence but this is the first one to have any vanilla hints to the exotic and extremely ripe nose and this ripeness continues onto the thick, opulent, even unctuous flavors that drench and stain the palate with buckets of sap and this is the longest wine among these '05s as the length simply does not quit. This is not really my style but there is no denying that this is one seriously impressive wine and it's not just a matter of size and weight, it's balanced too and will age. (91 94)/2010+
2004 Chablis Vieilles Vignes: (from 45 year old vines that see 20% oak but no new wood and no cold stabilization). A nose of saline, seaweed and a discreet touch of wood leads to supple, forward and understated flavors that are delicious if not particularly dense that culminate in a dry finish that offers good cut and plenty of punch. This is really a wine of finesse yet there is good character and ample personality and I very much like the transparency. Terrific villages. 89/2008+
2004 Chablis "Les Lys": (this saw 10 15% oak treatment). Subtle hints of pain grillé frame somewhat riper and certainly higher toned floral and citrus aromas that complement beautifully intense and textured medium full flavors that possess solid concentration and excellent length. The wood really is a background nuance and even purists will find this to deliver fine quality crafted in an understated style that offers plenty of Chablis character. Recommended. 90/2008+
2004 Chablis "Vaillons": (almost all Vaillons proper with a bit of Séchet). This too displays a subtle touch of wood with a beautifully layered nose of spice, citrus and white flower fruit aromas that precede intense, detailed and beautifully crisp yet powerful medium full flavors that culminate in a robust and saline finish. The sense of ocean influence here is almost palpable and I very much admire the explosive finish. Impressive quality here. 91/2009+
2004 Chablis "Côte de Léchet": An ultra pure and still rather reserved lemon lime and white flower infused nose merges into round yet delineated flavors that offer good richness and plenty of sap as well as a wonderfully intense and superbly persistent and moderately austere finish. The elegance here is notable as is the balance and this should be capable of at least a decade of life, perhaps longer if well stored. 91/2009+
2004 Chablis "Côte de Léchet Réserve": (from 50 year old vines aged in 50% oak though none of it is new). Noticeable but still modulated wood influence highlights a notably ripe nose of citrus, peach and apricot nose as well as the rich, full and sweet flavors that are complex, intense, punchy and precise and brim with minerality on the palate staining finish. The wood shows up again on the finish but overall, this is really quite a pretty wine as the oak is discreet. 92/2009+
2004 Chablis "Fourchaume": Not surprisingly, this is overall a bigger wine yet one that positively screams Chablis as it could be from no other place. Slightly riper aromas of green fruit and floral notes merge into muscular, pure and vibrant flavors that deliver serious cut and delineation on the focused and driving finish. This is a marvelous expression of the vineyard and one that should reward 4 to 5 years of cellar time and age for decade. 92/2009+
2004 Chablis Vaudésir: This is ripe to the point where there are subtle exotic hints accompanying the peach and pear aromas framed by background hints of pain grillé and vanilla that do not show up on the solidly concentrated flavors blessed with ample dry extract and even more length. As one would expect, this is a bigger wine with more depth of material but I marginally prefer the classer style of the Fourchaume. 92/2010+
2004 Chablis Bougros: This is stylistically quite similar to the '05 version with its very ripe aromas set off against notes of toast and vanilla with the robust, muscular and solidly structured flavors that are powerful but the '04 displays more minerality than one usually finds with the cru plus the length just goes on and on. This is a seriously impressive wine that has already absorbed most of the wood treatment. A striking yet harmonious effort. 93!2010+

Domaine Jaeger-Defaix - Rully
2005 Rully"Les Cloux" 1er cru white (86 89)
2005 Rully"Mont Palais" 1er cru white (87 89)
2005 Rully"Rabourcé" 1er cru white (88 90)
2005 Rully"Clos du Chapitre" 1er cru red (87 90)
2005 Rully"Préaux" 1er cru red (86 89)
This is a brand new domaine whose first vintage was 2003. It is run by Didier Defaix (see Chablis) as the vineyards belonged to the great aunt of his wife, who until the Defaix' took over, sold the production as grapes. The domaine comprises 4 ha with 5 1ers and as the vineyards are slowly brought under the Defaix team's management, they will expand production. The grapes are presently vinified in Chablis, which makes for a roughly two hour drive. (Winebow, Inc, Montvale, NJ; Alliance Wines and Domaine Direct, all UK).
2005 Rully"Les Cloux" white : Subtle wood with a hint of vanilla frames ripe green fruit aromas and round, rich, even opulent and sweet flavors that offer good volume and mid palate fat. There is a pretty touch of finishing minerality and the wood resurfaces as well though it's more of a nuance than something intrusive. (86 89)/2008+
2005 Rully"Mont Palais" white: Subtle pain grillé, citrus and white pear aromas overlay round, rich and textured flavors that are slightly finer and more elegant with very nice detail and overall, this is a wine of finesse rather than the forward and friendly character of the Les Cloux, which I prefer by the barest of margins. (87 89)/2008
2005 Rully"Rabourcé" white: Here the nose still displays fermentation aromas as well as ripe green fruit notes that can also be found on the bigger and richer flavors that culminate in a very dry and more structured finish. This is quite ripe and I suspect that some of the tightness is because the malo just terminated. Excellent potential here as there is a lot of dry extract which will carry the quality through even though the wine is clearly in an awkward state today. (88 90)/2008+
2005 Rully "Préaux" red : A wonderfully seductive nose redolent of dark cherry and very pinot red fruit aromas is followed by rich, sweet and delicious light to middle weight flavors that are surprisingly fine. This is not a big or particularly structured wine but it is very attractive in a simple yet elegant fashion. (86 89)/2008+
2005 Rully"Clos du Chapitre" red: More deeply pitched aromas of dark red and blue fruits, particularly plum, introduce earthy, rich, full and sweet flavors that are also utterly delicious, all wrapped in a more structured and powerful finish. This offers excellent quality for a Rully red and is recommended. (87 90)/2009+

THE BURGUNDY BRIEFING, Sarah Marsh, July August 06

The Vaudésir and Fourchaume are négoce and the rest 25 hectares is domaine. At Defaix they consider the 2005 vintage brings together the characters of 2003 and 2004. "The fruit and complexity of 2003 and the acidity and minerality of 2004, which is the opposite of 2003. The 2005 is the perfect compromise."
"For the 2005 vintage we used more barrel because of the richness of the vintage," says Defaix, but stresses this is a small percentage. "It is difficult to use barrels and keep typicité of Chablis."
Petit Chablis, 2005: Bright, pretty, creamy aroma and palate. Simple, clear, fruit driven and pleasant. Ready.
Chablis, 2005: A bit more intensity on the nose. Juicy fruit, rounded, fruit driven, fresh and balanced. A perfectly reasonable and agreeable Chablis.
Chablis, Vieilles Vignes, 2005: The vines are 35 years old on average and are just under Les Lys. 20% goes into old barrels.
A little more honeyed fruit here with some floral notes. More weight on the front of the palate - rounder, plumper and more generous in the middle. It is nicely creamy and textured and the finish is longer and biscuity. Soundly attractive.
Chablis, Les Lys, 2005: This is a sample from cuve.
This is a lot tenser and more sherbety on the aroma. Touch of florality and minerality. Attractively lively on the entry. Vivacious character underscores the acidity. Light, direct and pacy with a whiff of chalk on the finish. Very good
Chablis Vaillons, 2005: 20% old oak. This will be blended and bottled in September.
Touch less vibrant on the nose, slightly more perfumed but the lees were not settling well in 2005 at this domaine. More substance on the palate, delicately creamy. While it is not especially intense, it is pretty and rounded, more plump then the Les Lys. Very good.
Chablis, Côtes de Lechet, 2005: 20% barrels. They have 9 hectares!
More interesting aroma, more compact and mineral. Somewhat tighter onto the palate. More nervous energy here, nicely chalky on the finish. Modest intensity, but a good streamlined profile and an elegant and reasonably well sustained finish. Very good+
Chablis Cotes de Lechet, Reserve, 2005: 10% new oak, 40% old wood and 50% vat. For this they select older vines; the same plot each year which is about 50 year old.
The wood is rather obvious on the nose. Rich creamy palate, plenty of toastiness, which rather overwhelms, although it does have fair fruit to support this. I prefer the previous wine.
Chablis, Fourchaume, 2005 Defaix buys from the same vigneron every year and takes the fruit from the same plot. Defaix tells me this vigneron works the vines like him and keeps yields low. It is matured in 3 to 6 year old barrels.
Very ripe with greengages on the aroma and a touch of smoke. A round and more harmonious attack, which launches a bigger and broader palate. More weight here and power, and an earthiness. It is a little chunky. Quite full and long on the finish. Very good
Chablis, Vaudesir, 2005: This is all in old barrels. 35 year old vines. This is a bit more reserved and shows more potential and promise. Certainly a decent step up in quality. More classic and elegant, more controlled, refined and nicely textured smoother with better expression across the palate and onto the finish, which is a good deal longer. Fine.
Chablis Bougros, 2005: This sample came from a 1 year old barrel This is certainly very rich, unctuous and unlike the Fourchaume, acidity kicks in, so the balance is certainly better. It is full and glossy and meaty on the finish. However I prefer the Vaudésir, which is more elegant and possibly more complex. Particularly good to fine.

The GUIDE HACHETTE 2007
Chablis 2004* : This 2004 begins on hazelnut, with all the necessary liveliness, the colour and the expected structure. All qualities to be confirmed in 2 years, the good time to wait for this wine to be perfectly ready.
Chablis 1er cru Fourchaume 2004: Negociant created beside the family domain. And why not to tell it: Hélène is the grand daughter of the famous photographer Janine Niepce and her father was the first french climber on the Everest. This Fourchaume? Wait for him. Ones can turn 36 times around this mouth structured, with good acidity, simple and plaisant, wooded without excess, the conclusion will remain the same: patience. Clear and brilliant eye, very gentle nose.
Les Lys 2004: very good. They are selected.
Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir 2004:Wine merchant maturer created beside the Domaine Bernard Defaix. "Dry, limpid, perfumed, lively and light", that was the "travel warrant" fixed by the famous Raymond Dumay for the Chablis. Everything can be found here, with also the authentic greatness. Firm and with a good ageing capacity, the wine is gold with silver reflects. The ageing (twelve months in barrels) opens with delicacy a Vaudesir with light brioche taste, rich and complex, with a natural elegance in front of which you bow. Already selected as in 2000 with the Bougros.
Rully 1er cru Préaux rouge 2004*: Viticulturist in Milly near Chablis with herhusband Didier Defaix, Hélène is manageing the domain of her grand aunt Henriette Niepce in Rully since 2002. Can we dream better marriage in white when the Chablisian and the Cote Chalonnaise are going together to the altar? But it is a Préaux rouge that we are tasting here. Brilliance, tears, purplish ring, nothing is missing. The nose is on delicate red fruits notes. Structured and racy, the palate is not dominated by the tanins nor by the barrels. Enough freshness in reserve for the finish.
Mont-Palais Blanc 1er cru 2004* is very good too and has one star also.

LE CLASSEMENT DES MEILLEURS VINS DE FRANCE 2007 (Guide vert)
Bernard Defaix is retired and his 2 sons are now manageing the domaine. This domain is a specialist of the terroirs of the left bank of the Serein river, a bit less known than the right bank, but which have splendid surprises in store on hot years, particularly on terroirs like Lys or Côte de Lechet. The vinifications are using the ageing on the lees in order to give fat to the wine and to protect it against oxidation. The wines: the 2004's are promising and style wines. The Cote de Lechet Reserve has a beautiful personality and a great length. Bougros shows an impressive strength that few years in the cellar should quieten, whereas Vaudésir asserts on fineness.
Petit Chablis and Chablis 04: 13,5
Chablis 1er cru Cote de Lechet 04: 14,5
Chablis 1er cru Vaillons 04: 15
Chablis 1er cru Fourchaume and Chablis 1er cru Cote de Lechet Reserve 04: 15,5
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 04: 16,5
Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir 04: 17

TIME AND LEISURE, July 06 (GB) has selected our Chablis 04 among the "best of the summer wine"
Chablis 04: it shows a good minerally lemon fruit with rich and concentrated floral scents. Excellent with seafood and shellfish.

LE JOURNAL DU PALAIS, October 06 Chablis vieille vigne 2003: "Chablis is a word easy to prononce in all languages". That is the explanation given by Didier Defaix, the manager of Domaine Bernard Defaix (his father), to explain the incredible success of this appellation on the export markets. "Unfortunately", almost 90% of the wines produced by the domain are exported on the 5 continents. So we have not a lot of chance to find of of these wonders in France. And even less in Burgundy. And yet, this wine is the best that could happen for the french market. Sold under 10 euros, this wine joins the strength of the Chablisian "terroir" to the fineness of Chardonnay. An unique marriage that gives wines with such a particular style: "pleasant and classic" summarizes the winemaker. Wines easy to drink but with the structure of the best wines. This cuvée coming from an old vine of 50 years of age, is still very frisky. DECANTER, march 2006 Chablis 1er cru Cote de Lechet 2004 : Light, fresh nose, lime. Good attack, fairly rich and concentrated, spicy, minerality dominates fruit now, but it's tight and has potential. 2-8 years. Chablis 1er cru Vaillons 2004: Very mineral and citrus and floral blossom fruit. Limestone minerals and good intensity of flavour. Up to 3 years CUISINE ET VINS DE FRANCE, février-mars 2006 "Sylvain and Didier Defaix, the sons of Bernard, are evolving towards a more natural viticulture. For them, a clean farming leads to beautiful grapes. Their first crus Vaillons and Cote de Lechet have, in 2003 a fine structure just highlighted by the wood, and in 2004, a mineral structure with a strong finish that needs to age a bit. We love the purity and the discreet wood of these wines" Photo: "Didier Defaix carries at arms' length the most enormous cephalopods found by his father in the vineyard"

BURGHOUND.COM, octobre 2005
Didier Defaix said that 2004 was a "difficult vintage from a viticultural standpoint. We debudded twice and did a green harvest as well and we still had big yields of between 50 and 70 hl/ha, depending on the parcel and the age of the vines. The flowering was extended and thus ripening was varied as well. To help compensate for this, we began picking our ripest parcels and continued for four days and then stopped for another four before finishing the rest so that they could catch up maturity-wise. Everything we brought in was between 11 and 13% and picking parcel by parcel definitely helped. While I would say that first and foremost that it was necessary to do the right things in the vineyard before you could make fine wine in 2004, the vinification and élevage presented their own difficulties as well. We had very long malos that did not finish until March though this gave us ample opportunity to work with the lees. I did more bâtonnage than usual to help enrich the wines and the acidities are so good that the wines should remain well balanced. As to the overall quality, for me 2004 is clearly better than 2000 and is perhaps as good as 2002 and it may very well age even more gracefully." Note: Since 1999, the Defaix brothers also run a small négociant operation where they buy in grapes in Fourchaume and Bougros and in 2004, they have added a Vaudésir. I also had a chance to retaste the 2002 Old Vines Côte de Léchet and it is just a superb example of the vineyard and highly recommended.
2004 Petit Chablis: A moderately reserved nose of subdued green fruit and a hint of the herbaceous leads to racy, even nervous and bright flavors that possess a distinctly stony quality to the punchy and delicious finish. This is really quite a nice example for its level and recommended. I would give it one year in bottle and drink over the next two. 85/2006+
2004 Chablis: A more elegant and finer nose of green fruit, oyster shell and floral hints complement nicely complex, pure and linear flavors that culminate in a balanced, persistent and penetrating finish. This too is really quite lovely for its level and recommended. 87/2007+
2004 Chablis "Les Lys": (this saw 10-15% oak treatment). Subtle hints of pain grillé and vanilla frame somewhat riper and certainly higher-toned floral and citrus aromas that complement beautifully intense and textured medium full flavors that possess solid concentration and excellent length. The wood really is a background nuance and even purists will find this to deliver fine quality. (87-90)/2008+
2004 Chablis "Vaillons": (almost all Vaillons proper with a bit of Séchet). This too displays a subtle touch of wood with spice, citrus and white flower fruit aromas that precede intense, detailed and beautifully crisp yet powerful medium full flavors that culminate in a robust and saline finish. The sense of ocean influence here is almost palpable and I very much admire the explosive finish. Terrific. (88-91)/2008+
2004 Chablis "Côte de Léchet": An ultra pure and still rather reserved lemon lime-infused nose merges into round yet delineated flavors that offer good richness and plenty of sap as well as a wonderfully intense and superbly persistent finish.
The elegance here is notable as is the balance and this should be capable of at least a decade of life, perhaps longer if well stored. (88-91)/2008+
2003 Chablis - Vieilles Vignes: (from 45 year old vines that see 20% oak but no new wood and no cold stabilization; this wasn't bottled until March, 2005). An expressive and very ripe nose of straw and orchard fruit aromas highlight medium full flavors that display solid minerality, good freshness and a supple mid-palate. A quality effort at this level. 86/2006+
2003 Chablis "Les Lys": A ripe and very spicy nose with a suggestion of tropical fruits framed in a hint of wood leads to
dense, sappy flavors highlighted by a touch of pain grillé and fine length. This is a classy effort that combines ripeness with
elegance and just enough oyster shell character to remind one that this is Chablis. 87/2007+
2003 Chablis "Vaillons": (almost all Vaillons proper with a bit of Séchet). This is even spicier with exotic notes of pineapple, peach and very ripe apple that introduce rich, dense, robust and punchy flavors that are quite dry and nicely vibrant on the long backend. This is also very well balanced, especially for the vintage and a touch of citrus helps give a bit of lift to the forward and supple finish. 88/2006+
2003 Chablis "Côte de Léchet": Rich and ripe aromas with plenty of the hallmark citrus quality of a fine Léchet merge into relatively dry middle weight flavors that offer plenty of elegance, detail and a lovely finishing sweetness (in the best sense) on the finish. The complexity here is exemplary and this is a fine '03. 88/2007+
2003 Chablis "1er" Cuvée Rive Gauche: A deft touch of pain grillé serves to highlight extremely ripe orchard fruit aromas yet this is an elegant introduction to the round, rich, full and sweet flavors that retain excellent intensity and exceptionally good length. This is not an ordinary '03 as there is good Chablis character with ample balance and punch. 89/2008+
2003 Chablis "Côte de Léchet - Réserve": (from 50 year old vines aged in 40% oak though none of it is new; bottled in March, 2005). The generous wood this displayed from cask has moderated considerably and frames elegant lemon and
grapefruit aromas and continues on to the rich and powerful flavors that are textured, sappy and completely coat the palate. I quite like the finish as there is plenty of oyster shell and iodine plus outstanding complexity. Like the Cuvée Rive Gauche, this is quite a fine '03 with much to admire. Age it for 2 to 3 years and drink over the next 5. 89/2007+
2003 Chablis - Bougros: Surprisingly for the vintage, this is somewhat austere with green fruit and hints of straw and herbs that are less ripe than most of the foregoing '03s and framed by noticeable wood notes. The flavors are very Bougros-like as they are dense, powerful, robust and muscular and blessed with ample extract. This is not entirely typical and it's carrying a bit more wood than I personally can warm up to but the underlying material is clearly impressive. 90/2008+
2002 Chablis "Côte de Léchet - Réserve": (from 50 year old vines aged in 50% oak though none of it is new). What was a generous amount of pain grillé has now mostly integrated and frames stunningly pure and elegant, lemon-suffused aromas, leading to focused, chiseled, mineral-laden flavors of first rate density and length. The intensity is almost painful and the balance is absolutely impeccable - this should age beautifully. Highly recommended. 92/2008+

MAGAZINU WINO LUTY, marzec 2006 (Pologne)
Bougros 2003, AOC chablis grand cru, cena ****
Kolejne solidne chablis od tego producenta, które jednak nie zachwyca. Bukiet kwiatowo-beczkowy, malo na razie nut mineralnych i w ogóle malo ostrosci, jakiej oczekuje po chablis, zwlaszcza grand cru. Ma szanse sie poprawic; na razie jest malo wyraziste jak na wino tej klasy. (wb) ( sorry but I do not have the translation!)

LE GUIDE HACHETTE 2006
Petit Chablis 2004 : Apples : this wine suggests the tempting fruit. Fresh fruit and light colour, faithful to the appellation. The mouth is well done, the persistance honourable. Its youth is already pacified and the bottle can be appreciated from the reception of the order.
Chablis 1er cru Les Lys 2003 * : This first cru from the domaine, very pale with grey-green reflects, is fine, mineral and lightly wooded; these characteristics remain all along the tasting, accompanied by a great citrus fruits note. Balanced, round and long, it will be perfect with a grilled fish. The Fourchaume 2003 from Sylvain et Didier Defaix, wine-merchant business created in parallel to the domain, obtains a star. There is here a butter and brioche bouquet with the toasted flavor of oak. It will evolve, liberating completely a silk body, well-structured. Big length.
Rully 1er cru Mont-Palais 2003: Hélène Jaeger has made her nest in Milly on Chablisian area by marrying Didier (Domaine Bernard Defaix). She is also taking over step by step the family vineyard of her great-aunt Henriette Niepce in Rully, giving birth to the domaine Jaeger-Defaix. When the child appears... This inaugural vintage is a Mont-Palais pale gold, very limpid. The nose light and floral evokes the carnation. Tender as good bread , it will gain some length with one more year of patience. Then, the great-mother of Hélène, the photographer Janine Niepce will make its portrait.

LE CLASSEMENT DES MEILLEURS VINS DE FRANCE (Guide Vert) 2006
This domain is a specialist of the terroirs of the left bank of the Serein river, a bit less known than the right bank, but which have splendid surprises in store on hot years, particularly on terroirs like Lys or Côte de Lechet. The vinifications are using the ageing on the lees in order to give fat to the wine and to protect it against oxidation. The wines: with the heat of vintage 2003, the results are mixed. At their best, the Bougros have a length and a density which will stand out and the Vaillons are emerging with strength. A little disappointment with Les Lys, a bit short in a vintage that should have been favourable for them. It is true that the vintage was a real headache both for viticulture and winemaking.

FIGARO MAGAZINE, 9th of April 2005
Chablis vieille vigne 2003 : From a vine of 45 years old, this wine is round, ample and elegant. A delicate bouquet with notes of honeysuckle. It shows an excellent depth and concentration. It can be kept 3 to 4 years. To serve with grilled fish or poultry.

GAULT MILLAU, April/May 2005
Chablis vieille vigne 2003 : Classic and balanced nose, ample mouth, with beautiful fruit, resulting from a conscientious ageing, in oak barrels for one quarter of the production. A great wine, persistent and harmonious, leaving the mouth fresh and spring-like***(*).

GUIDE HACHETTE 2005
Chablis 2002 * : About a good Chablis, we used to say in the past that "It has love". So can we say about this 2002. It should age very well during a pair of years at least.Pale gold, very clear, it has a straight nose: all of it is frankness. Almond flavors on the mouth. Good length with fineness and tenderness.
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet 2002 * : One of the best 1ers crus of the left bank. This beautiful slope benefits from a remarquable morphological unity. White gold, this wine offers a fine and complexe bouquet (citrus fruits and white fruits). Good fruit on mouth also, freshness and richness, the dry character of Chablis'. Forget this bottles 2 years in your cellar. We also mention Les Lys 2002, to forget a while also, for shell fishes.
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2002, Sylvain & Didier Defaix ** : A small negociant business created beside the domaine, very successful as this Bougros, pale gold and luminous. Racy and frank on the nose. Good structure. To wait 3 to 4 years to reach the perfect level.

BEST WINES FROM FRANCE2005, "Green guide" Bettane & Desseauve
This domain is a specialist of the terroirs of the left bank of the Serein river, a bit less known than the right bank, but which have splendid surprises in store on hot years, particularly on terroirs like Lys or Côte de Lechet. The vinifications are using the ageing on the lees in order to give fat to the wine and to protect it against oxidation. The wines: the 2002's are showing at this stage some reduction, which is normal and even necessary for their potential for ageing. Do not ask them the crystalline purity of the main stylists of the area, but be sure that they will make wines of character in 6 to 8 years.

BURGHOUND.COM, October 2004
Didier Defaix said that they began the harvest on August 27th and continued until September 5th, noting that "quantities clearly suffered as we brought in 30% less crop with sugars that ranged between 12 and 13.5%. The musts were very dense with surprising diversity of pHs, which is to say between 3.3 and 3.5. We felt that we had to correct some of the wines though not all. The malos happened relatively quickly and all of the wines were finished by December. As to quality, I'm actually pleasantly surprised because even though there isn't great typicity, the wines are delicious, forward and satisfying. We'll bottle
a bit earlier than usual in September rather than December." This domaine continues to make strong improvement in quality and both the '02s and the '03s are very fine wines in the context of their vintages. Note: Since 1999, the Defaix brothers also run a small negociant operation where they buy in grapes in Fourchaume and Bougros.
2003 Petit Chablis: An expressive green fruit nose with a subtle touch of honey leads to light but nicely racy flavors that are pretty and easy to like. This finishes quite dry and firm though it's approachable now. 83/now
2003 Chablis: There is ample Chablis character here, certainly much more so than most '03s display but the flavors are surprisingly dilute and without the precision of the former wine. If this puts on weight my score will seem conservative because I do like the punchy oyster shell and iodine quality. (82-85)/now
2003 Chablis - Vieilles Vignes: (from 45 year old vines that see 20% oak but no new wood and no cold stabilization). The extra dimensions of concentration and complexity make this substantially better than the straight villages as there is strong minerality, good freshness and racy underlying acidity. A quality effort at this level. (85-88)/2006+
2003 Chablis "Les Lys": Ripe and very spicy with a suggestion of tropical fruits leading to dense, sappy flavors highlighted by a touch of pain grillé and fine length. This is a classy effort that combines ripeness with elegance. (87-89)/2006+
2003 Chablis "Vaillons": (almost all Vaillons proper with a bit of Séchet). This is even spicier with exotic notes of pineapple, peach and very ripe apple that introduce rich, dense, robust and punchy flavors that are quite dry and nicely vibrant on the long backend. This is also very well balanced, especially for the vintage. (88-90)/2007+
2003 Chablis "Côte de Léchet": Rich and ripe with plenty of the hallmark citrus quality of a fine Léchet that merge into even drier middle weight flavors that offer plenty of elegance, detail and a lovely finishing sweetness (in the best sense) on the finish. The complexity here is exemplary and this is a fine '03. (88-91)/2007+
2003 Chablis "Côte de Léchet - Réserve": (from 50 year old vines aged in 40% oak though none of it is new). A generously wooded offering though here the wood shows up mainly on the palate rather than the aromatic profile. The flavors are quite rich with plenty of citrus and minerality and while there is clearly more density here, this is not necessarily better than the regular cuvée. (88-91)/2007+
2003 Chablis - "Fourchaume": Moderately oaky notes frame ripe peach and subtle white pear notes that merge into sweet, delicious and nicely punchy flavors that offer adequate precision but lots of dry extract and a very dense mid-palate. I particularly like the persistence here. (88-90)/2007+
2003 Chablis - Bougros: (this had not been racked at the time of my June visit). The nose reflects the absence of a racking as it's rather troubled but the flavors are very dense, powerful and blessed with ample extract. This is not typical of Chablis but it's by no means heavy and unlike many '03s, this will require a few years to be at its best. (89-92)/2008+
2002 Chablis: This too is very bright, fresh and intense with a bit more weight and depth to the round, nicely sappy flavors that offer good Chablis character and fine length. It is not particularly complex but there is good power and this should benefit from a year or two of cellar time. Recommended. 87/2004-8
2002 Chablis - Vieilles Vignes: A clear notch up with a bit more of everything and the old vine character is evident, exhibiting fresh green apple fruit and that lovely crushed oyster shell component of classic Chablis followed by deep, powerful and persistent flavors of excellent depth and concentration. Terrific quality here in a very dry style. 88/2006+
2002 Chablis "Les Lys": Very pale green and yellow highlights introduce extremely pure, spicy and elegant citrus-infused aromas followed by fine, mineral-laden, rather understated flavors that offer superb precision and outstanding length plus intensity that is almost painful. This is really impressive and offers excellent cellar potential. 90/2007+
2002 Chablis "Vaillons": (almost all Vaillons proper with a bit of Séchet). Decidedly more expressive with floral, spicy, pure, relatively powerful and quite ripe aromas of orchard fruit, especially peach followed by delicious, round, supple flavors of good fat and excellent volume if not the sheer class of the Les Lys. A solid effort and with good finishing precision. 89/2007+
2002 Chablis "Côte de Léchet": Intense, nicely complex and detailed citrus-infused aromas that offer plenty of style and elegance introduce middle weight, precise and persistent flavors that have all of the hallmark finesse of a classic Côte de Léchet. A very pretty, very promising wine with much to like about it and this too finishes bone dry. 91/2007+
2002 Chablis "Côte de Léchet - Réserve": (from 50 year old vines aged in 50% oak though none of it is new). Generous amounts of pain grillé frame stunningly pure and elegant, lemon-suffused aromas, leading to focused, chiseled, mineral-laden flavors of first rate density and length. This is carrying more wood than I personally prefer but there is no doubt that the underlying raw material is outstanding with almost painful intensity. 92/2007-12
2002 Chablis - "Fourchaume": (100% wood but no new oak with a shorter élevage than the Réserve). Here the wood is largely if not completely absorbed though the round, rich, borderline sweet flavors are less precise and mineral-driven. The persistent finish is sappy, complex and beautifully intense with plenty of backend punch. 90/2007+
2003 Chablis white (82-85)
2003 Chablis - Bougros** Grand Cru white (89-92)
2003 Chablis "Côte de Léchet" 1er white (88-91)
2003 Chablis "Côte de Léchet" Réserve 1er white (88-91)
2003 Chablis "Fourchaume" 1er white (88-90)
2003 Chablis "Les Lys" 1er white (87-89)
2003 Chablis "Vaillons" 1er white (88-90)
2003 Chablis - Vieilles Vignes white (85-88)
2003 Petit Chablis white 83
2002 Chablis white 87
2002 Chablis - Bougros** Grand Cru white 91
2002 Chablis "Côte de Léchet" 1er white 91
2002 Chablis "Côte de Léchet" Réserve 1er white 92
2002 Chablis "Fourchaume" 1er white 90
2002 Chablis "Les Lys" 1er white 90
2002 Chablis "Vaillons" 1er white 89
2002 Chablis - Vieilles Vignes white 88
**A négociant wine sold under the Sylvain et Didier Defaix label

GAULT MILLAU 2005
Fourth generation from a family of vine-growers, Bernard Defaix started with 2 ha in 1959. Today the domain spreads over 25 ha. Bernard is now retired and his two sons are managing the domain, Sylvain in charge of the vinification, Didier in the vineyard. The 2 brothers are very concerned about environnement and the evolution towards cleaner viticulture is one of their priorities.
On the vintage 2002, the Chablis vieille vigne is remarquable by its opulence and its density. Always in Vieille vigne, the Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet Reserve compels its very good concentration, and the Chablis 1er cru Les Lys is playing on delicacy and fineness.
Millésime 2002 : Petit Chablis 84, Chablis 84, Chablis vieille vigne 87, Chablis 1er cru Les Lys 86, Chablis 1er cru Vaillons 86, Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet 87, Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet Reserve 88, Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 88.

THE VINE, CLIVE COATES, September 2004
Chablis vieille vigne 2002 : Flowery and balanced. Quite full. Good depth. 20%of this cuvéeis vinified in wood. Good. From 2006/7.
Chablis 1er cru Les Lys 2002: 15-20% wood. This is discernable. It's not too much though. Very good fruit. Lovely ripe, ample, balanced wine. Very long and very classy. Very good indeed. From 2007/8.
Chablis 1er cru Vaillons 2002: Ripe, rich and fragrant. Very lovely nose. On the palate, it is less consistent. Good fruit. But a little rigid. Good plus. From 2007/8.
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet 2002: Very stylish. Cool and minerally. Fullish, stylish and complex. Very vigourous. This is long and lovely. From 2008.
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet Reserve 2002: The vines here are 50 years old. Creamy, rich, like the above, but very classy fruit. Long and satisfying. Very fine. From 2007/8.

BOURGOGNE AUJOURD'HUI, octobre 2004
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet 2002 ** : Crystalline aromas of minerality, fresh fruits. The mouth is on harmony : fine and well-structured.
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet 2001 ** : Fine expression floral and mineral on nose as on mouth. An harmonious and persistant wine. Close to the third star.

DECANTER, July 2004
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2002****, 17.75/20: Impressive medley of green fruits, restrained richness. Palate confirms age. A complete wine, has everything one wants in Grand Cru Chablis. 5-10 years. (second out of 68 grand crus wines tasted for Decanter

DECANTER, May 2004
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet 2002 ****: One on the more elegant of the premiers crus, combined with firm fruit. Keep 5-10 years or more

Le Point, Special wines, 2nd of Septembre 2004
Chablis 1er cru Les Vaillons 2002, 15/20 Mineral with a touch of pastry, elegant, grapefruit, fresh and balanced.

Mondo, Weine der Welt, May 2004 (Germany)
Chablis 2002, 84 : würzig und direkt im Bouquet, leicht streng; frisch und direkt im Mund, klare Frucht, mit viel Biss (spicy and direct on nose, medium strength; fresh and direct in mouth, fruity, nervy).
Chablis vieille vigne 2002, 87 : konzentriert, würzige Noten, jugendliche Frucht, gute Fülle und Harmonie im Mund, klure reife Frucht, kompakt (concentrated, spicy touches, fruit; full and harmonious in mouth, ripe fruit, dense).
Chablis 1er cru Les Lys 2002, 88 : konzentriert im Bouquet, direkt, klure jugendliche Frucht, mineralische Noten; füllig und harmonisch im Mund; viel reife süsse Frucht, wunderschön lang. (concentrated, direct and fruity on nose with mineral touches; full and harmonious in mouth, wonderful length).
Chablis 1er cru Vaillons 2002, 88 : würzig-mineralische Noten im Bouquet, gute Konzentration, jugendliche Frucht, füllig im Mund, klare reife Frucht, wundrschön kompakier Chablis (flinty flavours on nose, good concentration, fruit; full on the mouth, a very concentrated Chablis).
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet 2002, 88 : würzig und direkt im Bouquet, jugendliche frucht mit mineralischen Noten; fülling im Mund, reife süsse Frucht, klar und direkt, feiner Nachhall (spicy and direct on nose, fruit with minerality; full on mouth, fruit, neat and direct, finesse on finish).
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet Reserve 2002, 90: konzentriert im Bouquet, herrlich dominant, etwas Zitrusfrüchte, klar und eindringlich; viel Konzentration im Mund, Fülle, reife süsse Frucht, harmonisch und lang, feiner Nachhall (concentrated on nose, neat and pleasant, citrus fruits; a lot of concentration on mouth, full, harmonious and long, finesse on finish).
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2002, Sylvain & Didier Defaix, 89: konzentriert im Bouquet, herrlich eindringlich, Haselnüsse dominant; füllig im Mund, viel reife süsse Frucht, feiner Nachhall (concentrated on nose, pleasant, hazelnut; full on mouth, ripe fruit, finesse on finish)

LE GUIDE DU FIGARO, March 2004
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet 2001 : C.F. With its minerality, typical of the Côte de Lechet, this is a Chablis to keep. He needs 2 or 3 years to express its potential. With its fresh final, you can drink it from the aperitif. L.G. The andouilette can be associated with the nice aromas of this chablis premier cru and its rich flavors which will be accentuated with a bit more time.

THE 1000's BEST WINES OF FRANCE La Revue du Vin de France, Special Issue, Nov. 2003
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet Reserve 2001
A wine very characteristic of its terroir, with the little touch of wet chalk which is the signature of the vintage and which is particularly suitable for Chablis. The body is balanced and full for the year. It doesn't show any sign of a too early ageing.

GUIDE HACHETTE 2004

Petit Chablis 2001**
A photograph of Doisneau or Janine Niepce would not give a better account of petit chablis than this wonderful bottle. Fineness and liveliness are characterizing this clear and limpid wine. The smell is a bit introverted but neat, elegant, reminding flint.
Chablis vieille vigne 2001
This very classic domain presents here his own production but they have also created a small business of wine-merchant maturer. This wine for ageing may not wait for the engagement of Alexandra, that a storck has just brought here, but it will be perfect for her first communion. Straw-yellow and with a good fruit, a lively and mineral chablis.
Chablis 1er cru Les Lys 2001**
This historic 1er cru was part of the "crown jewels". Gold and emerald are highlighting this wine, very discreetly wooded, with a warm soul, shared between stone and honey to conclude with a touch of ginger. Worthy of the best fishes cooked "en papillote". For the scallops, you will choose the Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet Reserve 2001 which obtained one star.
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2001, Sylvain & Didier Defaix
Sylvain and Didier Defaix are enjoying success. Their 2001 must absolutly age: to drink it too young would be an error of taste and the lobster will wait... Gold coloured, with white and silver tints, medium intensity for the bouquet. The attack is supple and the mouth is rich with peach flavors. Any way, this is a wine that you will not forget in your cellar.

BEST WINES FROM FRANCE 2004, Bettane & Desseauve
"A new generation is at work here, with the difficult 2001 vintage, she has produced remarquable wines by their richness, their precision, their fineness and the absence of any flavors due to bad sanitary state of the crop. A domain to follow, with a vineyard excellently situated".

BURGHOUND.COM - Allen Meadows, USA October 2003
This large 25 ha domaine, of which half the vineyards are in 1ers, has been under the direction of the brothers Sylvain and Didier Defaix since 1995; it is Sylvain who concerns himself with the winemaking, Didier with the vineyards. The domaine is also the largest owner of the 1er Côte de Léchet with an incredible 9 ha. The domaine pursues what Didier refers to as a “natural” philosophy in the vineyards as there are no herbicides and what little fertilizer is used is compost. They practice ébourgeonnage (debudding) and short pruning to limit yields rather than a green harvest and later in the season, they remove foliage to promote aeration. The fruit is machine harvested, pressed and settled, selected yeasts are added and 90% of the wine is vinified in stainless. Defaix told me that he really enjoys working with the lees but he’s not afraid to change things if necessary because in 2001, he eliminated all of them which helps to explain why the Defaix 2001s are so clean. The élevage period lasts for 10 to 12 months for most of the wines though the old vines Chablis and Côte de Léchet receive 15 to 18 months. The wines are lightly filtered before bottling but rarely fined as the Defaix’ prefer to rack one extra time instead. Since 1999, the Defaix brothers also run a small négociant operation where they buy in grapes in Fourchaume and Bougros. The Defaix 2002s are extremely promising and definitely more interesting than either their 2000s or their 2001s and it is the best set of wines they have ever made in my view; they also outperformed in 2001 as well and this is a domaine to watch.
2002 Petit Chablis : Crisp, intense and lemony with very fresh and fruity aromas and flavors and this is unquestionably Chablis in style and character. Solid quality at this level. 83/try from 2004
2002 Chablis : This too is very bright, fresh and intense with a bit more weight and depth to the round, nicely sappy flavors that offer good Chablis character and fine length. It is not particularly complex but there is good power and this should benefit from a year or two of cellar time. Recommended. 87/2004-8
2002 Chablis – Vieilles Vignes: (from 45 year old vines that see 20% oak but no new wood and no cold stabilization). A clear notch up with a bit more of everything and the old vine character is evident, exhibiting fresh green apple fruit and that lovely crushed oyster shell component of classic Chablis followed by deep, powerful and persistent flavors of excellent depth and concentration. Terrific quality here. (87-89)/2005-10
2002 Chablis 1er cru “Les Lys”: Very pale green and yellow highlights introduce extremely pure and elegant citrus-infused aromasfollowed by fine, mineral-laden, rather understated flavors that offer superb precision and outstanding length plus intensity that is almost painful. This is really impressive and offers excellent cellar potential. (89-92)/2006-12
2002 Chablis 1er cru “Vaillons”: (almost all Vaillons proper). Decidedly more expressive with spicy, pure, relatively powerful and quite ripe aromas of orchard fruit, especially peach followed by delicious, round, supple flavors of good fat and excellent volume if not the sheer class of the Les Lys. Solid effort and with good finishing precision. (88-90)/2005-10
2002 Chablis 1er cru “Côte de Lechet”: Intense, nicely complex and detailed citrus-infused aromas that offer plenty of style and elegance introduce middle weight, precise and persistent flavors that have all of the hallmark finesse of a classic Côte de Léchet. A very pretty wine with much to like about it. (88-90)/2006-12
2002 Chablis 1er cru “Côte de Lechet - Reserve”: (from 50 year old vines aged in 50% oak though none of it is new). A touch of pain grillé frames stunningly pure and elegant, lemon-suffused aromas, leading to focused, chiseled, mineral-laden flavors of first rate density and length. A simply superb effort and highly recommended. (90-93)/2007-12
2001 Chablis: Presently more expressive than its ’02 counterpart with a pretty, clean, ripe but not exotic aromatic profile plus forward, nicely intense and mineral-laden flavors and acceptable length. This will drink well early. 85/2004 to 7
2001 Chablis – Vieilles Vignes: Exuberant and in full bloom with a hint of oak spice framing the otherwis e pretty aromas and the rich, dense and muscular flavors that offer good Chablis character but less elegance than the straight villages. Still, this is quite a powerful and precise wine of exceptionally good length for a wine of its class. 88/2004-8
2001 Chablis 1er cru “Les Lys”: More deeply colored and already showing a pronounced yellow with perfumed, expressive aromas and silky, textured, rather forward and nicely elegant flavors that offer excellent complexity. The persistent finish displays hints of honey and anise and this delivers outstanding quality for the vintage. 90/2004-8
2001 Chablis 1er cru “Vaillons”: Even more evolved than the Lys though the aromas remain 100% primary and lead to sweet, sappy, rounded, spicy flavors that offer excellent density and fine finishing power. Forward and delicious but altogether serious. 89/2004-8
2001 Chablis 1er cru “Côte de Léchet”: Quite reserved with intense lemon and grapefruit aromas followed by very tight, linear, precise and focused flavors that are seemingly cut from liquid stone. This is a complete wine, classically styled and really most impressive with fine finishing intensity. Despite the reserve of the aromas, the flavors are relatively forward and this should be approachable young. 91/2004-8
2001 Chablis 1er cru “Côte de Léchet - Réserve”: This wine possesses a simply fascinating nose of herbal notes, especially tarragon, lemon and white floral notes all framed by subtle oak spice. The perfumed, pretty, sappy and dense flavors are quite broad and sweet in the best sense plus a powerful, very long finish. This is extremely impressive juice. 92/2004-8
2001 Chablis - Grand Cru "Bougros" : (100% oak treatment in 2 to 8 year old oak). Strong pain grillé notes frame floral, rich, nicely intense fruit, introducing impressively powerful, sappy, deep and muscular flavors of outstanding length. The cut and precision here are extremely imposing and while the oak is a bit too dialed up for my particular preferences, there is no doubt that this is a dramatic wine. Approachable young though it will benefit from a year or two of cellar time. 92/2005-9

THE VINE, CLIVE COATES, July 2003
"Didier Defaix, son of Bernard, has been supplementing the yields of this 25 hectares domaine with purchases of musts in Fourchaume and Bougros. These are sold under the label of Sylvain et Didier Defaix. The domaine is the largest owner of Côte de Lechet, the first growth climat which rises up behind the winery, with 7.5 hectares. They produce two cuvées of this. Fine wines here.
Petit Chablis 2001
Nicely racy. On the light side but fragrant and stylish. Lovely finish. Just about ready. Very good.
Chablis 2001
This is also very neatly made. Good acidity. FRuity and fragrant. Medieum body. Long and elegant. A little mineral than the Petit Chablis. Very good. From 2004/2005.
Chablis vieille vigne 2001
Richer and fuller and with more dimension. Very good style. Not a bit heavy. This is balanced and most impressive. Very good indeed. From 2005/2006.
Chablis 1er cru Les Lys 2001
Before 2000, this was included in the Vaillons. Flowery and stylish. Cool and very clean. Lovely fruit-salady aspects. Good substance. Very elegant and long. Lovely. A fine example. From 2005/2006
Chablis 1er cru Vaillons 2001
Plump, ripe and attractive. Not short but it doesn't quite have the vivacity of the above. It is a bit more closed-in. But, at the end. Long, elegant and mineral on the finish. From 2005/2006.
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet 2001
Round, ripe and quite closed again. Very minerally. THis is complex and classy. Subtle and very long. Lots of dimension. Lots of intensity, even powerful, at the end. Fine. From 2005/2006.
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet Reserve 2001
Old vines, 50% in old wood. Some oakiness but not too much. Very good grip. This will need time. Rich, fullish, concentrated and powerful. Very good indeed. From 2007.
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2001
Under the négoce label of Sylvain and Didier Defaix. Some oak. Full bodied, rich and concentrated. Good grip. Clean. This is very good but a little too oaky for my taste (100% old wood). From 2007.
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet 2000
This has very lovely flowery fruit. Quite individual. Youthful. Medium to medium-full body. Very good grip. Slightly closed. Long, pure and ripe on the follow-through. Fine quality. From 2005/2006.
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet Reserve 2000
The oak isn't nearly as pronounced as it is in the 2001. Just right, in fact. Full bodied, concentrated, harmonious and profound. Lovely fruit. Very good grip. Long. Still youthful. Fine too. From 2006.
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2000
Negoce. Very gently oaky. Lovely fruit. Full body. Good depth and grip. This is a most attractive, very stylish example. Long on the palate. From 2006."

LA REVUE DU VIN DE FRANCE, June 2003
special issue vintage 2002

Chablis vieille vigne 2002
The domaine is regularly present in our columns. Rounded, mellow woddy, elegant wine.
Chablis 1er cru Les Lys 2002
Les Lys is part of LesVaillons on the left bank of the Serein. Powerful cuvée, complex, delicate, with aromas of fruit already expressive.
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2002, Sylvain et Didier Defaix
This cru generally gives wines quite quick to drink. It explains this wine already rounded, balanced, a bit toasted on the nose, that will be very good on table in few years.

WINE REPUBLIC 2003 by Martin Moran (MW) Ireland
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet 1999 - 94/100
A light nose but, oh boy, what a palate, intense with great length and structure.
Chablis 1er cru Les Lys 2000 - 92/100
Very long wine with a very satisfying firm mineral texture that's almost like sucking a stone -really !-.
Chablis 2000 - 89/100
As good as most 1er cru with its peach fruit and stony, mineral character, great texture and length.
Petit Chablis 2000 - 86/100
Remarkably weighty for a Petit Chablis with a marzipan and flinty nose and fair length.
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2000 Sylvain et Didier Defaix - 93/100
A fabulous palate of apricot, mineral characters, buttery flavours and great length.

GUIDE HACHETTE 2003

Chablis 1er cru Les Lys 2000
Sylvain and Didier are managing since 1994 this family domain of 25 ha of which one half is classified in "premiers crus" . In the south of Milly and taking its name from the Royal Crown, this premier cru always keeps a certain height. Mint, menthol: the smell has this freshness persisting in the mouth without an excess of structure. Nice and pleasing.
Chablis grand cru Bougros 2000, Sylvain et Didier Defaix
Sylvain and Didier have created a little business beside the Domaine Bernard Defaix, "to keeps ones a bit more occuppied" as we usually say in Burgundy. First presentation to the Guide with a vintage 2000. And the result is this coup de coeur (it means that the wine is one of the favorite of the tasting). Dressed all in gold - with the inimitable green tint of Chablis-, this wine has a smell open like the doors of Heaven when you will be announced there. This minerality gains by an intelligent ageing under a good oak . Fullness, density, strength, elegance,... The promises are kept.

THE BEST WINES AT THE BEST PRICE 2003, Gerbelle & Maurange
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet 2000 : good matter, length and style
Chablis 1er cru Les Lys 2000: good matter, finesse and style. Richness in the mouth with minerality in final.

GAULTMILLAU, september 2002
Petit Chablis 2000, category "Nice wines, note 86"
Chablis 2000, category"Good success, note 88"
Chablis vieille vigne 2000, category"Very good success, note 89"
Chablis 1er cru Les Lys 2000, category"Very good success, note 89"
Chablis 1er cru Vaillons 2000, category"Very good success, note 89"

LA REVUE DU VIN DE FRANCE, Juin 2002,
numéro spécial millésime 2001

Petit Chablis 2001 : great minerality on this very fine and neat wine
Chablis 2001 : a bit more woody but with a great concentration , with a great structure and aromatic richness. Pleasing.

WINE IRELAND, March/April 2002
The Defaix range is very extensive and extremely interesting. The Petit Chablis 2000 was wonderful, crisp and fresh with a lovely layer of fruit. Moving up the range, I also tasted the Chablis 1er cru Les Vaillons. This was a stunning wine. Made in the more traditionnal, austere style it was Chablis at its most sublime - ton's of 'Granny Smith' acidity and apple flavours but with a subtle lime flavour also showing through.
(La gamme Defaix est très étendue et extrêmement intéressante. Le Petit Chablis 2000 était merveilleux, croustillant et frais avec une agréable touche de fruits. En montant dans la gamme, j'ai aussi goûté le Chablis 1er cru Les Vaillons. Ce vin est remarquable. Fait dans le style le plus traditionnel et austère, c'est le Chablis dans toute sa splendeur - des arômes de pomme, une touche d'acidité façon 'Granny Smith' avec un subtil arôme de citron vert).

WEINWIRTCHAFT, novembre 2001
Petit Chablis 2000
Zitrusfrüchte und Granny Smith, auch am Gaumen grüner Apfel, nervig, angenehm (Notes d'agrumes et de granny smith, vif et agréable).
Chablis 2000
Noten von Zitronen, grünen Apfel und Farn, sehr lebendig mit viel Mineralität (Notes de citron et de pomme verte, vif et très minéral).
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet 1999
Bienenwachs, Feuerstein, Röstnote; seidige Textur, gutes Volumen, lang (Cire d'abeille, pierre à fusil, notes grillées, texture soyeuse, bon volume, long)

 

GUIDE HACHETTE 2002

Chablis 1999** 
Ce 99 nous offre ici la quasi-perfection dans son millésime. La pâleur ? On aime mieux cela que l'extraction sommaire et abusive. Le nez encore confidentiel est joliment beurré et minéral à l'aération. La bouche est fine, élégante ; un vin franc et superbe pour longtemps ! 

 

LA REVUE DU VIN DE FRANCE, Juin 2001,
numéro spécial millésime 2000

Chablis 2000, Domaine Bernard Defaix
Si le nez est minéral, la bouche fait montre d'opulence et de plénitude, avec une finale dans les fruits blancs mûrs et des notes d'abricot. Même scénario, en plus concentré, avec les Vieilles Vignes.
Chablis 1^er cru Côte de Lechet 2000, Domaine Bernard Defaix
Les deux cuvées issues de ce terroir sont bien réussies. Le Reserve possède plus de réserve justement grâce à une généreuse charpente. La cuvée normale joue la carte de la fraîcheur. Les Vaillons montrent plus de puissance, tout comme Les Lys. Belle réussite d'ensemble pour le domaine.
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2000, Sylvain et Didier Defaix
Le boisé doit encore se fondre, mais le vin dense se révèle techniquement bien fait, plutôt dans le genre costaud, mais les Bougros aiment les costauds.

CUISINE ET VINS DE FRANCE mars 2001
Chablis 1998
Ce domaine est sorti plusieurs fois dans cette dégustation: un signe indéniable de qualité. Le nez est simple et franc avec quelques notes citronnées. La bouche est à l'identique, honnête et plaisante. Elle fera merveille sur un plat de langoustines.
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet 1998
Au nez, ce permier cru évoque le miel de sapin, le caramel et la noisette, signes d'un élevage en bois soigné "à la beaunoise". Et, de fait, sa puissance rappelle certains blancs de la Côte. Comme eux, il peut tenir tête à un saumon fumé.

DECANTER, juillet 2000
Les Vaillons 1998
Soft, smoky, sweet honey aromas. Full palate, with lots of chalky and mineral, mushroom characters; zesty, citrus fruits make your mouth water. (JH).
Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Lechet 1998
Lean and varnishy on the nose. Clean, fresh palate, with good balance and length. (SM ).

TASTINGS (USA), special French Issue 2000
Chablis 1er cru Les Vaillons 1998
Pale green-straw hue. Attractive aromas of minerals, citrus and herbs. Intense upfront with a medium body and vibrant mineral and citrus flavors on the finish. This will improve with near- to mid-term cellaring.
Score : 88
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet 1998
Bright green-yellow hue. Vibrant, citrusy, and well-cut on the attack with a medium body and a firm, structured finish. Four- to five- years cellaring may see an improvement.
Score : 89
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet, Vieilles Vignes 1997
Yellow-gold hue. Buttery, ripe aromas have a lovely fruit accent. Concentrated and rich on the attack with a moderate full body and a persistent fruit and mineral finish. Oak only makes a light, subtle impression. Drinking well now.
Score : 90

ALLGEMEINE HOTEL-und GASTSTÄTTEN-ZEITUNG septembre 2000
Chablis Vieilles Vignes 1999
Sieger wurde der "Vieilles Vignes" von Bernard Defaix. Holz ist zwar deutlich zu spüren, aber auch die mineralische Frische im Duft und die Rasse im Geschmack. Für manch einen mag das Holz den klassischen Chablistyp hier verstellen, aber lässt man sich auf diesen Wein ein, merkt man seinen Schliff, seine Komplexität und sein Potenzial.
1ère place sur 55 vins dégustés

GUIDE  HACHETTE 2001

Chablis 1998 **
Une robe jaune pâle brillant, des arômes puissants de fleurs, de fruits, avec une jolie présence minérale, peu d'acidité et, en revanche, un gras élégant. 
Chablis 1er cru Les Vaillons 1998
Ce Vaillons au nez de silex et de mousseron ne manque pas de corps. Sa finale un peu vive incite à l'attente. On le débouchera d'ici deux à trois ans. Noix de Saint-Jacques de rigueur.

BOURGOGNE AUJOURD'HUI Octobre, Novembre 2000
Chablis 1er cru Les Vaillons 1999*
Robe pâle, nuancée de vert. Le nez "suit", très frais, sur des notes d'agrume, de végétal. En bouche, le vin est de densité moyenne mais bien équilibré entre rondeur et fraîcheur. A suivre...
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet 1998 **
"Droit, strict, minéral,..." Ce genre de qualificatif peut rebuter en obordant un vin. Pas s'il s'agit d'un chablis et qui plus est d'un Côte de Lechet. Il faudrait en effet rajouter "pur et minéral" pour mieux cerner la question et conclure, comme le fait un dégustateur par: "bouteille de garde qui s'étoffera avec le temps" pour tout comprendre.
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet Réserve 1998 ***
Finesse! Au nez d'abord, dans des notes minérales et épicées; puis en bouche, dans une texture soyeuse, d'une superbe persistance. Le potentiel de ce vin lui permettra de très bien vieillir.

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... and older ones.

GUIDE HACHETTE 1999

Petit Chablis 1996*
On se situe là sur une tonalité exotique qui sans être d'une typicité parfaite, n'est pas déplaisante du tout. Bien au contraire ! Frais et souple, un chardonnay qui ne repose pas sur un socle considérable mais qui plaît, et c'est le principal.

Chablis 1996 *
Jean Cocteau écrivit La Voix Humaine en une seule nuit, dans un hôtel de Chablis. Sans doute l'inspiration lui vint-elle d'un vin comme celui-ci. De beaux reflets, un nez encore austère et à vocation minérale, une bouche très friande et qui met les papilles en joie, il n'a pas fini de s'exprimer.

Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Lechet 1996 *
D'une clarté lumineuse, un vin qui intéresse vivement. Le nez -silex, zeste d'agrume- est cité en exemple comme modèle de typicité Chablisienne. La bouche passe tous ses examens avec une note au-dessus de la moyenne. Il ne faut pas sonner trois fois à sa porte pour qu'il s'ouvre.

GUIDE HACHETTE 1998

Chablis 1995 *
Bouteille d'expression sincère, sous un or vert très pâle.
Le bouquet, en revanche, s'affirme bien fruité avec un accent minéral. Vif et souple, ce 95 a un goût de noisette. Peut être bu dès a présent ou conservé quelques années.

Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Lechet 1995 *
Très jolie robe et nez intéressant où se mêlent mangue, fruit de la passion, et note minérale. La bouche est riche au départ puis elle se ferme. Elle livrera ses secrets dans quelques mois et accompagnera alors un saumon.

GUIDE HACHETTE 1997

Chablis 1994 Vieille Vigne *
Sous des abords assez faibles en couleur, le bouquet réserve au visiteur des confidences minérales et végétales, fines et complexes. Corps rond et vif à la fois. Equilibré et de belle longueur, il s'adoucira grâce aux bienfaits de l'attente.

Chablis 1er Cru Les Vaillons 1994*
Des Vaillons au nez minéral. nuancé d'abricot. Longueur moyenne mais quel festival entretemps ! Bonne expression aromatique (pêche, silex). La bouteille va évoluer assez vite, tout en gardant l'essentiel de ses qualités.

Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Léchet 1994
Vin assez léger, primesautier, agréable à ce stade de son évolution. Il a un joli fruité et un peu de terroir à ses souliers.

GUIDE HACHETTE 1996

Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Léchet 1993*
L'un des excellents premiers crus de la rive gauche. Force est de constater qu'il brille non seulement par son or, mais encore par sa fraîcheur. Le fruit bien mûr s'invite en bouche sans s'annoncer. Il est le bienvenu. accompagné d'un gras astucieusement citronné. Les Vaillons laissent également le chardonnay s'exprimer pleinement.

Chablis 1993**
Sur horizon marin, fruits de mer rassemblés, voici un vaisseau de haut bord qui s'en va vers une course lointaine. Le laisser atteindre, dans deux à quatre ans, de très heureux rivages... Vinification soignée et du vent dans les voiles...

PETIT CHABLIS 1998

PIERRE PERRET
"LA CUISINE DE MA FEMME" Octobre 1996

Salade de rattes au saumon fumé : "Un Chablis blanc plein de fruits, celui du Domaine Bernard Defaix et Fils, fut magnifique ce jour-là!"

LA REVUE DU VIN DE FRANCE
Mai 1998

Petit Chablis 97
Bien minéral, équilibré, net, il se montre apéritif

Chablis 97
Ce chablis confirme la réussite du domaine en 1997 : des notes d'agrumes au nez, beaucoup d'élégance et de style, une grande longueur... une affaire!

Chablis 1er Cru Côte de lechet 97
Il montre beaucoup de corps et de netteté aromatique, une expression pure et juste d'un terroir très original et lent à vieillir, un fruité exceptionnel. Une autre cuvée de Vaillons, plus tendre, l'égale en excellence.

RETRO-OLFACTION

Avril 1998 - Jacques Vivet

Chablis 96, des vins à vous faire miauler de plaisir
Didier DEFAIX, Domaine Bernard DEFAIX , Des chablis remarquables, rigoureux et gourmands

LA REVUE DES PRIX DU VIN

SEPTEMBRE 1997

Petit chablis 1996 Vue : Jaune pâle aux reflets verts. De belle limpidité.
Nez: Délicat et velouté. Fleurs blanches. Citronné. Mie de pain. Légèrement vanillé. Bouche: Fraicheur et fruité. Assez belle matière. Gras sur une belle finale à l'acidité marquée par les agrumes. A boire entre 98 et 2000

 

 

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PHOTOS AND TEXT : PROPERTY OF BERNARD DEFAIX. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. ALL REPRODUCTIONS FORBIDDEN