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BOURGOGNE AUJOURD’HUI – December 2011 / January 2012
Special « Burgundians of the year »
Bernard Defaix: More chablisian than ever
In Chablis, this relatively discreet domain has been listed among our best for ten years at least. At the beginning ot this new decade, both brothers Defaix, Sylvain and Didier, and Hélène, Didier’s wife, have passed a new step. The results of our tasting of the 2010 vintage and also of the 2009 were particularly significant. The chablis’ freshness and minerality are more than ever remarkebly enhanced. The 27 hectares of the domain have been turned into organic farming. The 2011 vintage is the result of the three years of transition. The wines are more than ever marked with their terroir. Côte de Lechet, Vaillons, Lys are the three premiers crus the more emblematic. Chablis and Chablis Vieilles Vigne are also exceptionnal. The range is also completed with a wine merchant activity.
BURGHOUND.COM, Allen Meadows, October 2011
Domaine Bernard Defaix et Fils
Didier Defaix told me that the domaine is now certified “bio”. He describes 2010 as a “vintage where there was an extended flowering that extended grape maturities significantly. We saw some disease pressure in the form of mildew and botrytis up until around the 10th of August but after that, things were really quite clean. We elected to begin picking on the 23rd of September and got in two days of crop during warm and dry conditions. The rain on the 25th though caused a sort of staccato-like harvest for us as it was start/stop and start/stop again. We picked over 17 days, which turned out to be a good thing given the uneven maturities from one parcel to another. We could really target each one as it became optimally ripe. Potential alcohols were quite varied and ranged between 12 to 13.5%. Even though there wasn’t necessarily a lot of malic acidity, the malos were both late and long and their effect on the finished wines was really quite dramatic. I very much like the potential of the 10’s as they have a bit more underlying material than either the ‘07s or the ‘08s though it’s important to note that I don’t yet know if the ‘10s will necessarily make for better wines at this early stage.” The in-bottle Defaix ‘09s have turned out beautifully and are lovely wines by any measure. See also the related Domaine Jaeger-Defaix below.
2010 Petit Chablis : This is already wonderfully expressive with ripe orchard fruit and sea breeze-inflected aromas leading to rich, pure, and delicious flavors that possess fine mid-palate concentration as well as refreshing finish. This offers solid quality within the context of the appellation. 87/2012+
2010 Chablis : This is also notably ripe yet admirably fresh with the barest hint of the exotic adding nuance to the otherwise classic Chablis aromas that complement well the rich, delicious and overtly mineral-driven middle weight flavors that possess good verve and cut on the citrusy finish. I especially like the vibrancy here. 88/2013+
2010 – Chablis – Vieilles Vignes : (from 45+ year old vines that see 20% oak but no new wood and no cold stabilization). A reserved and mildly austere nose grudgingly offers up notes of ripe green fruit where hints of citrus rind can also be found. There is good density and richness to the detailed and impressively intense flavors that enjoy ample amount of acid-buffering dry extract on the dry, clean and punchy finish. This is worth a look, particularly for its level. (88-91)/2014+
2010 Chablis “Les Lys” : (this sees 10-15% oak treatment). Soft wood frames the ripe nose of primarily dried floral and stone aromas where the latter element also characterizes the rich and concentrated but notably refined medium-bodied flavors that are an exercise in finesse and understatement on the intense and saline-suffused finish. This is a classic and mildly austere Les Lys that is admirable for its exquisite subtlety. (89-92)/2014+
2010 Chablis “Vaillons” : (almost all Vaillons proper with a bit of Séchet). Here the nose is somewhat more complex and features aromas of white orchard fruit, floral nuances and lemon hints. There is good richness and plenty of concentration to the sappy and mouth coating flavors that culminate in a dry but slightly less austere finish of fine length. (90-92)/2014+
2010 Chablis “Côte de Lechet” : A reserved and elegant nose shyly suggests aromas of mineral reduction, citrus and tidal pool nuances that introduce beautifully detailed and seductively rich flavors that also enjoy plenty of dry extract that adds a sense of volume to the bone dry and highly persistent finish. This is really a lovely effort.
(90-93)/2015+
2010 Chablis “Côte de Lechet Réserve” : (from 50+ year old vines aged in 40% oak though none of it is new). A moderate lashing of wood stops just short of compromising the expressiveness and transparency of the otherwise similar if slightly riper aromas. There is excellent richness and volume to the medium-bodied flavors that offer an attractive mouth feel and impressive length on the mouth coating finish. This is unquestionably a wine of quality but I prefer the cut and energy of the “regular” cuvée. (90-92)/2015+
2010 Chablis “Fourchaume” : (from Côte de Fontenay). A classic and exceptionally fresh nose of green fruit, iodine and algae gives way to rich, intense and beautifully well-delineated flavors that possess good mid-palate fat, all wrapped in a long, energetic and focused finish. This possesses fine volume and if it can add depth, it may surprise to the upside. (90-92)/2015+
2010 Chablis – Vaudésir : Unlike the Côte de Lechet Réserve, this has already eaten its wood which allows the ripe white and yellow orchard fruit, floral, citrus and sea shore-infused aromas to shine. The broad-shouldered flavors are exceptionally rich and powerful with excellent concentration to the mouth coating, minerally, explosive and moderately austere finish. This notably dry effort should offer 6 to 8 years of upside development potential. (91-94)/2016+
2010 Chablis – Bougros : Discreet if not invisible wood sets off a ripe and complex nose of green and orchard fruit, tangerine skin and oyster shell nuances. There is impressive density to the generous big-bodied flavors that possess fine concentration and plenty of mouth coating extract that buffers well the firm acid spine on the robust and long finish. As is typically the case, this is not a wine of elegance or refinement but it certainely makes a statement. (91-94)/2017+
2009 Chablis – Vieilles Vignes : (from 45+ year old vines that see 20% oak but no new wood and no cold stabilization). Almost, if not quite, invisible wood frames the ripe orchard fruit and oyster shell aromas that reflect a hint of exoticism merging into rich, delicious and rather elegant flavors that are a bit finer than usual, all wrapped in a balanced, minerally and lingering finish. 88/2013+
2009 Chablis “Les Lys” : (this sees 10-15% oak treatment). Discreet wood sets off a notably more elegant nose of white peach, floral and sea breeze notes that give way to nicely rich and dense middle weight flavors that possess good detail and an attractive minerality that comes through on the lemony, focused and solidly persistent finish. Good stuff and I particularly like the silky texture combined with the energetic finish. 90/2014+2009 Chablis “Vaillons” : (almost all Vaillons proper with a bit of Séchet). Here too there is a deft touch of wood surrounding the white orchard fruit, citrus, iodine and honeysuckle aromas that have glimpses of oyster shell poking through. The rich, forward and relatively generous flavors possess a seductive mouth feel and excellent complexity on the dry-for-the-vintage finish. This should age well for the medium term. 90/2014+
2009 Chablis “Côte de Lechet “ : Notes of pain grillé mix with fresh and bright citrus and tidal pool aromas that are also reflected by the elegant and pure medium-bodied flavors that possess good levels of dry extract that buffer the precise, detailed, clean, linear and dry finish that offers terrific depth and length. This moderately austere effort is really quite good. 91/2014+
2009 Chablis “Côte de Lechet – Réserve” : (from 50+ year old vines aged in 40% oak though none of it is new). As is typically the case, the wood is a bit more obvious here than in the regular cuvée though it does stop short of dominating the slightly riper nose of citrus blossom and lemon peel. The bigger and richer medium plus weight flavors ooze dry extract but not to the point that the focus and detail are lost. In sum, this isn’t as racy as the regular cuvée, but it’s more powerful and remains well balanced. This is also very, very good. 92/2014+
2009 Chablis “Fourchaume” : (from Côte de Fontenay). This does not display anywhere near the amount of wood influence that last year’s sample did and is much the better of it. There is a touch of post-bottling SO2 that detracts marginally from the otherwise reserved nose of white flowers, orchard fruit and sea breeze aromas. There is ample richness and volume to the full-bodied flavors that possess a robust muscularity and fine length and the only nit here is a touch of finishing warmth. I like the intensity and this should offer 4 to 6 years of upside potential. 91/2014+
2009 Chablis – Vaudésir : Here too there is a touch of SO2 on the mildly exotic nose of white flowers and green fruit. The textured, powerful and concentrated big-bodied flavors possess ample dry extract and a mouth coating, intense and dry finish that displays excellent persistence as well as outstanding complexity.
2009 Chablis – Bougros : Almost invisible wood combines with fresh aromas of tidal pool and green fruit that also display a trace of post-bottling sulfur. The flavor profile is classic Bougros with a powerful, rich and muscular mid-palate that drenches the mouth in extract and culminates in a relatively dry and explosive finish. While this palate-staining effort will not win any awards for finesse, it is one intense wine, in fact almost painfully so. 93/2015+
Domaine Jaeger-Defaix (Rully)
This is a relatively new domaine whose first vintage was 2003. It is run by Didier Defaix (see Chablis) as the vineyards belonged to the great aunt of his wife, who, until the Defaix’ took over, sold the production as grapes. The domaine comprises 4 ha with five 1ers. The fruit is presently vinified in Chablis, which makes for a roughly two hour drive.
Whites :
2010 Rully “Mont-Palais” : A fresh, ripe and pretty nose of white flower, citrus and muscat hints leads to detailed, stony and intense middle weight flavors that possess good complexity on the linear, balanced and lingering finish. An attractive effort of balance and harmony. (88-91)/2013+
2010 Rully “Les Cloux” : Residual fermentation aromas presently hide the nose but there is lovely detail to the intense, delicious and impressively scaled flavors that possess just a bit more overall depth and length on the palate coating finish. This should also be quite attractive with a few years of bottle age. (89-91)/2013+
2010 Rully “Rabourcé” : Here too there are residual fermentation aromas that block a true evaluation of the nose but there is good verve and punch to the serious, dense and admirably well-concentrated flavors that possess a citrus-inflected and notably dry finish. This appears to be very promising and is worth considering. (89-92)/2014+
2009 Rully “Mont-Palais” : Relatively generous wood also exhibits vanilla and wood spice hints while framing a mildly exotic nose that is reminiscent of muscat, mango and apricot. The nicely concentrated, delicious and balanced flavors offer good length if seemingly less energy than one might hope for. This easy-to-like effort is not without its appeal but I find it to be a bit simple. 86/2012+
2009 Rully“Les Cloux”: Here the wood is much more discreet if not invisible which allows the aromas of white flowers and citrus to shine. The forward, supple and sappy middle weight flavors deliver excellent richness and culminate in a surprisingly dry and opulent finish. This possesses much better energy, depth and length. 89/2013+
2009 Rully “Rabourcé” : Here the nose is as it should be with only a trace of wood juxtaposing against a pretty mix of green and exotic yellow fruit that leads to fresh and energetic medium-bodied flavors that possess good power and detail on the long if ever-so-mildly woody finish. 89/2013+
Reds :
2010 Rully “Préaux” : This had not finished its malo and thus, consistent with my policy of not rating wines which have not finished their malos, it is not reviewed. Not Rated.
2010 Rully “Clos du Chapitre” : Vestiges of fermentation aromas presently dominate what appears to be ripe dark berry fruit underneath the funk. By contrast there is good intensity and detailed to the mineral-inflected flavors where the supporting tannins are firm by not aggressive. (87-90)/2016+
2009 Rully “Préaux” : Mild wood influence sets off a notably ripe and attractive nose of plum, red berry fruit and violet notes that give way to delicious, supple and appealingly textured flavors that possess good dry extract levels that render the moderately firm tannins almost invisible at present. This moderately complex effort should age well. 88/2014+
2009 Rully “Clos du Chapitre” : Mild toast frames somber but more complex red berry fruit and spice aromas that give way to what are clearly ripe supporting phenolics that shape generous, even plump middle weight flavors delivering excellent length and balance. This should be lovely if not truly distinguished in time because despite the forward and round mouth feel the finish is actually nicely precise. 89/2014+
DECANTER , Rosemary George – July 2011
Best 25 buys for Chablis Grand Cru 2008
Bougros **** 18: Delicate nose with just a hint of oak. Firm palate and good acidity. Tight knit with fine potential. Drink : 2018-2028
Vaudésir ***** 18.5: Closed nose but elegant and nutty. Structured palate with attractive mineral notes. Fresh acidity. Drink : 2018-2028.
CUISINE ET VINS DE France (September - October 2011)
Chablis 1er cru Les Lys 2009
All Chablis is to be found in this bottle. Its juice, ruby gold, expresses its locality through its mineral flavour. It spreads its fresh texture on the tongue. This great 1er Cru goes beneath the 2009 maturity to reveal a racy and rich substance. Spurred on by Bernard’s sons, Sylvain and Didier, and Didier’s wife, this domain, which will achieve its conversion to organic farming in 2011, gains each year in purity.
LE GUIDE HACHETTE DES VINS 2012
Domaine Bernard Defaix
Chablis 2009
The succession is now assured. Sylvain and Didier have now taken over the domain, and they turn their vineyard into organic farming. An evolution which is in the air at present, yet which puts the terroir forward. The nose of this 2009, all in fineness, shows citrus fruit and mineral notes. Following, the mouth comes out with its softness and good length. To drink with fine "charcuteries".
Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons 2009 *
Sylvain et Didier Defaix, Bernard’s sons, are now in charge of the domain, on the way of organic farming. A cultural evolution which tends to release the terroirs. This is the case with this Vaillons, a wine to be kept, which will deliver the aromas’ richness in two or three year’s time. Behind its nose, floral and slightly vegetal, the mouth shows tight, straight, carried by minerality.
To serve with pickled salmon.
Bernard Defaix
Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir 2009 **
The wood does not spoil the wine when it is discreet and melted. This is the case with this Vaudésir where the ripe fruit stands out, on the nose but even more on the mouth. A greedy, concentrated, ample mouth, which expresses the terroir through this tipically Chablis minerality, that brings freshness, length and balance. To appreciate in three or four years’ time with fine fish cooked in sauce.
Domaine Jaeger-Defaix
Rully 1er Cru Mont-Palais 2009
In october 2002, Hélène Jaeger-Defaix, the wife of Didier Defaix, winegrower in Chablis, takes over that plot of Rully 1er Cru Mont-Palais, which used to belong to her great-aunt, Henriette Niepce. Then in 2005, she takes over the whole estate, 4,5 ha located exclusively on the most renowned 1ers crus. Three of them are selected in the 2012 edition. The Rabourcé 2009 white and Les Cloux 2009 white are also quoted. ; to drink in the year. The Mont-palais, deep gold coloured, shows an intense nose of candied fruit and beeswax. The full, rich and aromatic palate stretches to finish on warm notes.
This smoothness suggests to serve this wine with a foie gras or a matured cheese like the Langres.
LA REVUE DU VIN DE FRANCE -June 2011 - Special vintage 2010
Domaine Bernard Defaix
Chablis 1er cru Les Lys : Les Lys is a Premier Cru that is more often found under the name of Vaillons. With its white flowers aromas, this “organic” wine proves fully its identity and its singularity.
Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir 16-17/20: A hint of apple which could explain a lengthening malolactic fermentation. Of course, the harvest was late and the winter harsh.
Chablis Grand cru Bougros 17-18/20 : Firm and tense in the mouth, this cuvée is less characterized by its attack than by its persistence.
Domaine Jaeger Defaix
Rully 1er Cru Mont-Palais: An ambitious vinification, in old barrels, which gives a rich, fragant and well balanced wine. A fat Rully 1er Cru which does not lack length
Rully 1er Cru Clos du Chapitre: A full wine, with intense fruit and tight substance, well structured by fat tannins and moderate acidity. Good length.
BOURGOGNE AUJOURD’HUI – June/July 2011 - Special vintage 2010
Domaine Bernard Defaix: Indispensable
To turn 27 hectares into organic farming is not easy and yet the delicate 2010 vintage went off very well at the domain Bernard Defaix (second year of conversion), for whom this official step is only a logical evolution after a 10 years‘gradual transition to a more and more organic farming. Regarding the wines, the domain has always tried to produce mineral chablis’s, like its emblematic premier cru Côte de Lechet. « We do not want to make woody chardonnay, but chablis’ » explains Didier Defaix, who runs the domain with his brother Sylvain. Even if, in term of analysis, the difference is not significant between yesterday and today, Didier Defaix thinks that with the organic farming the style has evolved. “At the tasting, which is the most important point, I feel that our wines are at the same time more pure, longer in the mouth with a softer and richer minerality ”. Chablis’ even more Chablis’ in a certain way ...
Chablis – 16: All the qualities of a classic Chablis are present here : purity, freshness, minerality and salin finish.
Chablis premier cru Côte de Lechet – 15,5:« A promising wine, very well made », says a taster. An elegant woody nose. The mouth is rich and refined.
Chablis premier cru Les Lys – 15
Chablis grand cru Bougros - 14
DECANTER , Rosemary George – April 2011
Chablis 2009 **** 18
Rich, leesy nose; with rounded fruit on the palate, full and ripe, as you would expect from the vintage, but with good balancing acidity. Drink : 2011 – 2016.
BOURGOGNE AUJOURD’HUI – April / May 2011
Chablis premier cru Vaillons 2009– 16,5
The nose is delighting, on spices notes. The mouth in round, concentrated, while keeping energy and length.
Chablis vieilles vignes 2009 – 17
Chalk, cinnamom and citrus aromas reveal to the nose. The mouth is rich, balanced with a good minerality. A fine wine, full and complex.
Chablis 2009 – 16
A chablis characterised by its minerality, its liveliness and its aromatic purity. It lacks neither richness nor strength. A full wine.
BURGHOUND.COM, Allen Meadows, October 2010
Domaine Bernard Defaix
Didier Defaix told me that the domaine is now certified “bio”. He describes 2009 as a “vintage where there will be some very good surprises. A lot of people say that it’s not as good as 2007 or 2008 but it was possible to make some very, very good wines in 2009 as well. We waited to begin picking and didn’t start until the 17th of September and even then, we stopped for a day here and there to be sure that each parcel was picked at optimum ripeness because of the heterogeneous flowering. The sugar levels were about the same as in 2008, which is to say between 12 and 13% though we obtained a bit less yield in 2009. The wines are very rich and while there is sufficient acidity, there certainly aren’t the elevated levels we obtained in 2007 and 2008. We did absolutely no lees stirring in 2009 whereas in 2008, we stirred them regularly. I like the ‘09s and believe that so will our clients once they have a chance to taste them.” I agree with Defaix’ take on the 2009 vintage, at least for his wines as they are among the very best in the region. His ‘08s are also terrific and while I’ve noted this before, it bears repeating : The quality of the Defaix wines now puts the domaine among the top 10 in Chablis. See also the related Domaine Jaeger-Defaix below.
2009 Petit Chablis : A pretty and ripe nose that is clearly suffused with ample Chablis character expresses notes of green fruit and sea breeze before introducing relatively fine light to middle weight flavours that are delicious, round and if not overly complex, then dry, balanced and persistent. To enjoy young. 86/2011+
2009 Chablis : Slightly riper aromas of yellow orchard fruit, floral notes and oyster shell hints lead to rich, delicious, fresh and vibrant flavors that possess fine concentration and a subtle minerality on the sappy, tangy and balanced finish. 88/2010+
2009 Chablis - Vieilles Vignes : (from 45+ year old wines that see 20% oak but no new wood and no cold stabilization).
Discreet if not invisible wood frames the ripe orchard fruit aromas that reflect a hint of exoticism that merge into rich, delicious and rather elegant flavors that are finer than usual, all wrapped in a balanced, minerally and lingering finish. Fine quality at this level and worth a look. (88-90)/2013+
2009 Chablis “Les Lys” : (this sees 10-15% oak treatment). Discreet wood sets off a notably more elegant nose of white peach, pear, floral and sea breeze notes that give way to nicely rich and dense middle weight flavours that possess good detail and an attractive minerality that comes through on the lemon, focused and solidly persistent finish. Good stuff. (89-92)/2014+
2009 Chablis “Vaillons” : (almost all Vaillons proper with a bit of Séchet). Here too there is a deft touch of wood surrounding the white orchard fruit and honeysuckle aromas that have glimpses of oyster shell poking through. The rich, forward and relatively generous flavours possess a seductive mouth feel and excellent complexity on the dry for the vintage finish. This should age well for the medium term. (89-92)/2015+
2009 Chablis “Côte de Lechet” : Notes of pain grillé mix with fresh and bright citrus and tidal pool aromas that are also reflected by the elegant and pure medium-bodied flavors that possess good levels of dry extract that buffer the precise, detailed, clean, linear and dry finish that offers terrific depth and length. This is most impressive. (90-93)/2015+
2009 Chablis “Côte de Lechet – Réserve” : (from 50+ year old vines ages in 40% oak though none of it is new). As is typically the case, the wood is a bit more obvious here than in the regular cuvée though it does stop short of dominating the slightly riper nose of citrus blossom and lemon peel. The bigger and richer medium plus weight flavors ooze dry extract but not to the point that the focus and detail are lost. In sum, this isn’t as racy but it’s more powerful and remains well balanced. Also impressive. (91-93)/2015+
2009 Chablis “Fourchaume” : (from Côte de Fontenay). By contrast, here the wood is generous to the point of fighting with the nose and it continues onto the rich and full-bodied flavors that do offer fine intensity and a seductive texture but it’s hard to see this not beeing marked permanently by the wood even though there is a solid concentration. Not for me (89-91)/2015+
2009 Chablis – Vaudésir : This is also generously wooded though glimpses of white flower and green fruit can be seen beneath the oak. The textured, powerful and concentrated big-bodied flavors possess ample dry extract and a mouth coating, intense and dry finish that displays excellent persistence. This appears to have the underlying material to eventually absorb the oak though it is difficult to predict whether there will be some rounding of the finish in time. (91-93)/2016+
2009 Chablis – Bougros : Noticeable but somewhat less obvious wood combines with, but does not dominate in the same fashion as the Fourchaume and Vaudésir, the tidal pool and green fruit aromas. The flavor profile is classic Bougros with a powerful, rich and muscular mi-palate that drenches the mouth in extract and culminates in a relatively dry and explosive finish. While this will not win any awards for finesse, it is one intense wine, in fact almost painfully so. (91-93)/2016+
2008 Chablis – Vieilles Vignes : (from 45+ year old wines that see 20% oak but no new wood and no cold stabilization).
The wood treatment has now integrated almost completely and does not intrude much on the otherwise fresh and complex nose that gives way to serious, concentrated and sappy medium plus weight flavors that linger impressively on the dry, stony and racy finish. This is also a fine villages that is worth a look. 89/2013+
2008 Chablis “Les Lys” : (this saw 10-15% oak treatment). Discreet if not invisible wood allows the highly floral, elegant and lightly spiced nose to express itself to good measure. The delicate and refined flavors bring good richness but also fine detail on the precise, dry and persistent finish. A lovely wine of finesse that is recommended. 91/2014+
2008 Chablis “Vaillons” : (almost all Vaillons proper with a bit of Séchet). A similar subtle application of wood frames citrus, spice, brioche and white flower aromas that slide into somewhat bigger and richer flavors that possess good extract levels and fine intensity on the sappy and palate staining finish that exudes Chablis character. Lovely juice if not quite at the same level as the Les Lys. 90/2014+
2008 Chablis “Côte de Lechet” : Almost invisible wood treatment sets off extemely fresh and classic citrus and stone aromas that are in keeping with the surprisingly rich and full-bodied flavors that retain a fine sense of underlying precision and tension while culminating in a racy, very dry and palate staining finish that exudes plenty of Chablis character. In a word, terrific. 92/2014+
2008 Chablis “Côte de Lechet – Réserve” : (from 50+ year old vines aged in 40% oak though none of it is new). Here the wood is, as usual, a bit more evident, but not so much so that it dominates the lemon and sea breeze character that precedes the fresh, clean, pure and serious flavors that possess buckets of the dry extract that buffers the firm acid spine on the palate drenching finish. This is a graceful combination of power and punch that should age beautifully. Also terrific. 93/2014+
Domaine Jaeger-Defaix
This is a relatively new domaine whose first vintage was 2003. It is run by Didier Defaix (see Chablis) as the vineyards belonged to the great aunt of his wife, who, until the Defaix’ took over, sold the production as grapes. The domaine comprises 4 ha with five 1ers. The fruit is presently vinified in Chablis, which makes for a roughly two hour drive.
Whites :
2009 Rully “Mont-Palais” : This is more discreetly wooded thant its ’08 counterpart with a mildly exotic nose that is reminiscent of muscat. The nicely concentrated, delicious and balanced flavors offer good length if seemingly less energy than one might hope for. As such, the wine seems a bit flat today though there are a variety of legitimate reasons that this could be. (86-89)/2013+2009 Rully “Les Cloux” : This is still quite raw with overt fermentation and toast aromas that dominate the otherwise typical aromas of white flowers and citrus. The forward, supple and sappy middle weight flavors deliver excellent richness and culminate in a surprisingly dry finish where both an acid tang and the wood surface. Awkward today. (86-89)/2012+
2009 Rully “Rabourcé” : Here the nose is as it should be with a pretty mix of green and exotic yellow fruit trimmed in moderate oak toast that leads to somewhat fresher and more energetic flavors that possess good power and detail on the long if mildly finish. (87-90)/2013+
2008 Rully “Mont-Palais” : Noticeable if not dominant wood still allows the mildly exotic orchard fruit cut with fresh citrus nuances to shine. The rich and generous medium-bodied flavors are delicious and possess a tangy finish where the muscat character also displayed by the ’09 version shows up. 88/2013+
2008 Rully “Les Cloux” : An expressive nose of fresh sliced lemons and limes trimmed in more discreet wood treatment marries into rich, full and mouth coating flavors that retain a good sense of underlying detail on the citrus and very dry finish. At present this lacks enough complexity to merit being at the next level but if it does, my rating may seem unduly conservative. 88/2013+
2008 Rully “Rabourcé” : Compared to its ’08 stable mates, here the oak is unobtrusive and allows the spicy floral and pear aromas free reign to gracefully precede the rich, full, minerally and attractively pure flavors that possess near perfect balance as well as fine length. Like the Cloux, if this can add depth in bottle, it could merit an upgrade intime. 89/2014+
Reds :
2009 Rully “Préaux” : Mild wood influence sets off a notably ripe and attractive nose of plum, red berry fruits and violet notes that give way to delicious, supple and appealingly textured flavors that possess good dry extract levels that render the moderately firm tannins almost invisible at present. This should age well. (87-90)/2016+
2009 Rully “Clos du Chapitre” : Moderate reduction renders the nose impossible to fairly evaluate but the supporting phenolics are clearly ripe with generous, even plump middle weight flavors delivering excellent length and balance. This should be lovely in time because despite the forward and round mouth feel, the finish is actually nicely precise. (89-91)/2016+
2008 Rully “Préaux” : A rather rustic, even sauvage nose of warm earth, underbrush and fresh red berry fruit aromas is followed by rich, round and nicely detailed medium-bodied flavors that possess good complexity on the mildly oak-suffused but persistent finish. The wood should integrate in time but even though it’s not intrusive, it’s not invisible today. 87/2015+
2008 Rully “Clos du Chapitre” : This is slightly more elegant though there are the same animale and warm earth nuances present on the otherwise fresh red berry fruit nose. The round and delicious flavors possess good verve on the generous, sappy and lingering finish that displays mild oak influence on the lingering finish. 88/2015+
LE GUIDE HACHETTE DES VINS 2011
Rully 1er cru Clos du Chapitre 2008*
This Clos du Chapitre, monopoly of the domain, is a thirty-five years old plot of pinot noir, completely encircled with low walls. Its wine has all the assets to please : a deep garnet-red colour, a nose combining violet and blackcurrant to coffee and vanilla, and a full-bodied mouth. The elegance of the tanins helps the final to become harmonious. The white 1er Cru Rabourcé 2008, quoted for its expressive fruitiness, can wait two years at least.
THE BEST WINES OF FRANCE 2011 – Green Guide
Domaine Bernard Defaix
Sylvain and Didier Defaix are now managing the family domain, whose vineyard is situated on the left bank of the Serein river. Their Chablis is lively and floral, with some Premiers Crus a little less known than those on the right bank but reserve beautiful surprises in the hot years – especially on terroirs of Côte de Lechet. Thanks to skilfull vinification and to ageing on the fine lees in tank, the wines gain more fat and are protected against oxidation.
The wines : in a 2008 vintage rich and provided with a strong acidity, the dense Chablis Vieille Vigne is to be pointed out, as well as the Premiers Crus, Côte de Lechet Réserve with a stunning depth, and Fourchaume precise and powerful.
Domaine Jaeger-Defaix
Hélène Jaeger has, at first in 2002, taken over a plot of Rully Premier Cru which belonged to her great aunt Henriette Niepce, descendant of the famous inventor, and then the whole domain in 2005. Wife of Didier Defaix, wine grower in Chablis, she puts into practice the principles suitable for the great wines, with plowed soils and handpicking. The harvesting is vinified in the cellar, in Chablis, which has all the equipments. The whites are vinified in barrels.
The wines : Les Cloux is our favourite wine : provided with a good volume, this wine manages its maturing brilliantly. For the red wines, the Premier Cru Clos du Chapitre is juicy and straightforward, with a digest texture and a woodiness well assimilated. The Premier Cru Préaux is a bit lighter, with a refreshing mouth and a greedy texture.
GUIDE BETTANE & DESSEAUVE 2011
The Côte de Lechet Reserve shows, on vintage 2008, a nice character and a dense mouth, the old vines have given here a compact juice. The Grand Cru Vaudésir 2008 is also fine, with a delicate mouth, a good balance on the finish, well tensed on a lemony note.
DECANTER MAGAZINE, July 2010
Highly recommended ****
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet 2008 (16.83)
Floral and slightly honeyed nose with good depth. Fine, lifted, minerally fruit with a good middle palate. Balanced, precise and will be complex in time.
Chablis 1er cru Les Lys 2008 (16.67)
Assertive nose, pears. Good attack, with the acidity integrated into the fruit, firm and mineral, a touch austere which gives nutty complexity. Very good length.
CUISINE ET VINS DE France (February-March 2011)
Rully 1er cru Rabourcé 2008
Nice fruit with lemon-flavoured notes, for a Chardonnay that concentrates on its fatness and a full and lively substance. The woodier finish, toasted under the taste bud, leaves in the mouth a hint of almond and brioche. The same care is brought to the white 1er Cru “Les Cloux”.
VINUM , septembre 2010, Switzerland
Chablis 2008 15/20
Verhalten mineralisch, von schlanker, kristallener Art, bekömmlich. 2010 bis 2011
BURGHOUND.COM, oct 2009 - Allen Meadows (USA)
Domaine Bernard Defaix – Chablis
Didier Defaix describes 2008 as a “complicated vintage. There were periods of heat followed by cool and rainy counterparts that would have normally set the stage for rot but the north wind saved things as it arrived right at the beginning of September. It was a good thing too because we didn’t start picking until the 30th and slowly harvested until the 17th of October. We were able to do this because the wind dried things out so thoroughly that there was absolutely no rush. Moreover, it allowed us the luxury of picking each parcel exactly when optimum ripeness was achieved as the wind helped to concentrate the sugars though it had a tendency to degrade the acidity so we had to watch things closely. Potential alcohols came in between 12 and 13% though yields were a good 30% lower than in 2007. I very much like the ‘08s as there is a bit more flesh to them than with the ‘07s even though the ‘07s could actually be approached now if desired.” I’ve noted this before but it bears repeating.
The Defaix wines are now among the top 10 domaines in Chablis and both the ‘07s and the ‘08s merit your attention.
2008 Petit Chablis: A fresh and frank nose of green fruit and enough Chablis character to be interesting leads to racy and lemony flavors that possess a solidly intense and bone dry finish if only moderate complexity. 86/2010+
2008 Chablis: An utterly classic nose – this could be from no where else but Chablis – of green fruit, oyster shell and sea water complements pure and fresh medium-bodied flavors that culminate in a textured, crisp, detailed and bone dry finish of
impressive length for a wine at this level. Excellent quality and recommended. 89/2011+
2008 Chablis – Vieilles Vignes: (from 45+ year old vines that see 20% oak but no new wood and no cold stabilization). The wood treatment has not yet integrated completely and sticks out a bit on the otherwise fresh and complex nose that gives way
to serious, concentrated and sappy medium plus weight flavors that linger impressively on the dry and racy finish. This is also a fine villages that is worth a look. (88-91)/2012+
2008 Chablis “Les Lys”: (this saw 10-15% oak treatment). Here the oak is much more discreet if not invisible and allows the highly floral, elegant and lightly spiced nose to express itself to good measure. The delicate and refined flavors bring good richness but also fine detail on the precise, dry and persistent finish. A lovely fine of finesse. (89-92)/2012+
2008 Chablis “Vaillons”: (almost all Vaillons proper with a bit of Séchet). A similar application of wood frames citrus, spice, brioche and white flower aromas that slide into somewhat bigger and richer flavors that possess good extract levels and fine intensity on the sappy and palate staining finish that exudes Chablis character. Lovely juice. (90-92)/2013+
2008 Chablis “Côte de Léchet”: Subtle wood treatment sets off extremely fresh citrus and stone aromas that are in keeping with the surprisingly rich and full-bodied flavors that retain a fine sense of underlying precision and tension while culminating in a very dry and palate staining finish that exudes plenty of Chablis character. In a word, terrific. (90-93)/2013+
2008 Chablis “Côte de Léchet - Réserve”: (from 50+ year old vines aged in 40% oak though none of it is new). Here the wood is, as usual, a bit more evident but not so much so that it dominates the lemon and sea breeze character that precede the fresh, clean, pure and serious flavors that possess buckets of dry extract that buffers the firm acid spine on the palate drenching finish. This is a combination of power and punch yet there is a certain elegance. Also terrific. (91-93)/2013+
2008 Chablis “Fourchaume”: (from Côte de Fontenay). A ripe but completely classic nose of green fruit, tidal pool and oyster shell hints that are also reflected by the rich, full and voluminous flavors that are relatively powerful on the dense, complex and attractively vibrant and wonderfully long finish that combines both power and punch. Like the Réserve, this is impressive. (91-93)/2013+
2008 Chablis - Vaudésir: The malo had just finished at the time of my late June visit and the nose was clearly marked by it though the big, rich and full-bodied flavors are dense, complex, energetic and powerful with an almost painfully intense finish that exudes the beautiful sense of underlying tension. The Fourchaume is impressive but it’s equally clear that there is another dimension present here. (92-94)/2014+
2008 Chablis - Bougros: A similar if somewhat less troubled nose in this case allows for glimpses of green fruit and oyster shell notes to peek through the funk and precedes the very rich and full flavors that are not quite as concentrated but still possess plenty of punch and character on the very dry, racy, clean and impressively long finish. (91-94)/2015+
2007 Chablis – Vieilles Vignes: (from 45+ year old vines that see 20% oak but no new wood and no cold stabilization). A ripe and completely classic nose with obviously mineral reduction slides into rich, full and serious flavors blessed with ample mid-palate concentration as well as very solid depth and length. This is like licking rocks and the old vines are evident. Terrific quality for its level and highly recommended. 90/2012+
2007 Chablis “Les Lys”: (this saw 10-15% oak treatment). A ripe, pure and ultra refined nose that is both airy and lacy while displaying softly seductive aromas of sea breeze, white pear, lemon zest, spice hints and iodine nuances that continue onto the intense, detailed and superbly precise middle weight flavors that are a study in delicacy yet deliver outstanding flavor authority on the austere and understated finish. I really like the style of this as there is elegance but grip. 91/2012+
2007 Chablis “Vaillons”: (almost all Vaillons proper with a bit of Séchet). An overtly spicy nose has lemon zest and sea breeze nuances and the ripe green fruit aromas merge into almost painfully intense, precise and very firm medium-bodied flavors supported by a solid acid spine and pungent minerality on the bone dry and equally austere finish. There is not the finesse of the Les Lys but this is more powerful and evidences even more Chablis character that gives the Vaillons a slight edge. 92/2013+
2007 Chablis “Côte de Léchet”: As the best examples of Léchet always are, this boasts an ultra elegant nose of citrus blossom, oyster shell, warm stone and lemon zest, the latter of which is also reflected by the textured, racy, detailed and bone dry flavors brimming with plenty of Chablis character on the exceptionally long and austere finish. This is a classic old school style of Chablis that is a bit finer than the Vaillons if less powerful – a qualitative choice. In a word, excellent. 92/2013+
2007 Chablis “Côte de Léchet - Réserve”: (from 50+ year old vines aged in 40% oak though none of it is new). A subtle if noticeable touch of wood highlights a similar if slightly riper nose that has a touch of menthol as well that can be found on the exceptionally rich, layered and intense flavors that possess good size and weight yet lose no sense of detail or delineation because of it, all wrapped in an explosive and smoky finish. In sum, this too is very promising. 92/2013+
2007 Chablis “Fourchaume”: (from Côte de Fontenay). Blind, it would be almost impossible to guess anything other than Chablis as this displays a positively classic nose of salt air, oyster shell and green fruit that is pure, layered and elegant before giving way to round, naturally sweet and concentrated flavors that stain the palate with sap, all wrapped in a wonderfully intense, powerful and driving finish. This is quite different from the Côte de Léchet examples and should age well. 92/2013+
2007 Chablis - Vaudésir: This is also utterly classic with ripe, pure and classy aromas that are set off by a discreet touch of wood before preceding concentrated, deep, layered and notably serious relatively big-bodied flavors yet this remains a wine of finesse and elegance as the minerally finish is focused and hugely long. The balance is perfect and this really does a slow build before exploding on the palate staining finish. 93/2014+
2007 Chablis - Bougros: A deft touch of wood seamlessly works into the dense mix of ripe floral and green fruit aromas that are in keeping with the intense, pure and notably energetic broad-shouldered flavors that explode on the almost brutal finish.
This is an impressively scaled, powerful and concentrated wine that is massively long as it is blessed with serious amounts of dry extract. This is not nearly as elegant as the Vaudésir but it’s very Bougros in character. 93/2014+
Domaine Jaeger-Defaix (Rully)
This is a new domaine whose first vintage was 2003. It is run by Didier Defaix (see Chablis) as the vineyards belonged to the great aunt of his wife, who, until the Defaix’ took over, sold the production as grapes. The domaine comprises 4 ha with five 1ers. The grapes are presently vinified in Chablis, which makes for a roughly two hour drive. Defaix explained that all of the ‘08s were presently still in malo and thus only the in-bottle ‘07s are reviewed below. The ‘08s will be reviewed in-bottle next year.
Whites:
2007 Rully “Mont Palais”: A very subtle touch of wood sets off ripe aromas of honeysuckle and citrus plus subtle muscat notes that merge into supple, round and agreeable flavors that possess reasonably good detail and fine finishing precision. A balanced effort with fine length and excellent complexity. 89/2010+
2007 Rully “Les Cloux”: Here the wood treatment is just a bit more in evidence as it frames the pretty white flower aromas that introduce more concentrated and intense medium-bodied flavors that benefit from solid acid support on the rich, minerally and long finale. Lovely if a bit woody but note that the wood does not upset the overall balance. 89/2011+
2007 Rully “Rabourcé”: More discreet oak highlights floral and lemon zest notes that complement the rich, full and naturally sweet middle weight flavors that finish with a seductive texture, fine depth and excellent length. This is almost a hypothetical blend of the prior two wines with an added dash of underlying minerality. Recommended. 90/2011+
Reds:
2007 Rully “Préaux”: A very fresh and actually quite ripe nose of red berry fruit that evidences subtle earth and wood notes that give way to supple, round and detailed medium-bodied flavors that are utterly delicious and quite pure if not especially complex. Still, for a straightforward pinot that offers enjoyable exuberance, this is worth a look and it is already approachable. 88/2010+
2007 Rully “Clos du Chapitre”: Very mild oak toast notes combine with slightly more elegant and ripe red raspberry, cherry and warm earth aromas that lead to rich, round, forward and supple flavors that are easy but not simple with a tasty and tangy finish. There is a bit better phenolic ripeness evident on the structural elements and this should repay 1 to 3 years of cellar time. In sum, this is both seductive and lovely. 89/2011+
BOURGOGNE AUJOURD’HUI AVRIL-MAI 2010
Chablis 1er cru Fourchaume 2008 - 15/20
A real Chablis wine, powerful and delicate at the same time. Very promising ...
Chablis 1er cru les Lys 2008 - 14.5/20
A stony and floral nose. The mouth is fresh, with an acidulous fruitiness and a very mineral finish.
LA REVUE DU VIN DE FRANCE - MAI 2010
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros: These wines have the massive texture and the alcohol richness that is typical of Bougros
Bougros 2008 - Bernard Defaix : 14,5/20 – We appreciate more its salty finish than its woody character, lightly drying. To wait.
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet: With Montmains and Vaillons, Cote de lechet is amongst the 3 best premiers crus of the left bank.
Ten superb premiers crus 2008 among which :Côte de Lechet Réserve 2008 Domaine Bernard Defaix : 15,5/20 –Its straightness makes it perfect for the table and also for ageing.
A GUIDE TO THE WINES OF CHABLIS, Austen BISS (UK)
9 domains have been rated with 3 stars on this book. We are one of them.
“Bernard is the fourth generation of a renowned family of vignerons, starting his own estate in 1959 with two hectares of vines. On Bernard’s retirement, sons Sylvain and Didier assumed control and to date the domaine has grown to over 25 hectares, of which 9 hectares are Premier Cru Côte de Lechet. Defaix is the largest single owner in this climat and part of his holding here was planted in 1955. There are 12 hectares of Chablis Village land including 1 hectare of Vieilles Vignes more than 40 years old. In addition to the above, the domaine now purchases grape must from Fourchaume and Grands Crus Bougros and Vaudésir.
Defaix stresses the first step to successful vinification is taken in the vineyard so as to produce the ripest healthiest fruit. Yields are impressively low, with rendements varing from 35 hectolitres per hectare for the Côte de Lechet Vieilles Vignes to 55 hectolitres per hectare for the Petit Chablis. 16 hectares of the estate vineyards are run organically. He hopes to convert the entire vignoble to organics from 2009. Harvesting is done mechanically, as this is found preferable to picking by hand, one reason being that the harvest can be stopped as soon as it starts raining. After the "table de trie" the grapes are given a gentle pressing pneumatically so that the must produced requires less débourbage.
Both fermentations take place in stainless steel, left on its lees, racked and fined with bentonite or isinglass. Elevage is from 3 to 8 months according to the nature of the cuvée and vintage, followed by a light plate filtration and bottling.
There is a cuvée of Côte de Lechet Vieilles Vignes Reserve which is partly vinified in oak barrels where it stays for eight months with regular batonnage. The wine is then racked and returned to barrels for another four to six months before tasting and assemblage with the same cuvée in inox. The idea of this method is to produce a more powerful example of Côte de Lechet, but retaining typicité and elegance. The 2006 and 2007 examples are dream wines, indeed Côte de Lechet from Bernard Defaix is never less than exciting.Synthetic corks are used for the Petit Chablis, Chablis and all half bottles.None of the wines tasted in May 2009 were anything less than very good. Brilliant wine making, brilliant wines.
Petit Chablis – Delicious and reliable
2008 From vines grown on Kimmeridgian soil. Deliciously quaffable, lovely fruit and balanced acidity, crisp, mineral finish, very very long. Very Good.
Chablis – Delicious and reliable
2008 Delicious fruit on nose, grass cuttings on palate, fresh green apples, really succulent acidity, crisp, and long clean finish. Very Good.
Chablis Vieilles Vignes – A set-up in intensity, also delicious and reliable.
2007 More intense nose, flowery and minerally, rich, concentrated, crisp, and spicy with beautiful balance and finish. Very Good.
2006 Intense nose of floral fruit, minerally, rich, elegant, crisp, spicy, apricots, with lovely concentration, beautiful balance and finish. This is classy and a really delicious mouthful. Drink from 2010/11. Excellent.
PREMIERS CRUS
Côte de Lechet Bernard Defaix is the champion maker of this excellent premier cru
2008 Lovely
elegant mineral nose, delicious fruit with balanced acidity, soft, elegant, long aftertaste, stony mineral, intensity to fill the mouth with delicious flavours. Fabulous. Drink from 2011. Excellent.
2007 Gorgeous wine. Stony, chalky minerality, very concentrated fruit, supremely elegant, wine of typicité, intense, very long, classy, fabulous. So delicious. Drink 2010 to 2016. Truly Excellent.
2006 Stony, chalky minerals, very concentrated fruit, sumptous acidity, supremely elegant, great typicité, intense, very long with lovely finish. As enjoyable as the Vieilles Vignes 2006. Absolutely delicious. Drink from 2010 if you can wait. Excellent.
Côte de Lechet Vieilles Vignes – The Vieilles Vignes is even more intense and concentrated.
2008 An unbelievable wine. Tasted with Nick Clarke of Dreyfus Ashby, importer of Louis Michel wines, who exclaimed „Oh, what a treat !“ Comments as for Côte de Lechet 2008 above but with extra concentration. Drink from 2011/12. Truly remarkable and Excellent.
2007 From vines planted in 1955. How could the Côte de lechet 2007 be better. It can’t, but this is different. Very elegant nose from very concentrated fruit, showing floral minerals, intensity, spices, and great length. This is an absolute knockout with seafood. Drink 2010/11 for 6 years, maybe more. Excellent.
2006 Elegant fruit and terrifically balanced acidity, citrus fruits, pineapple and mango, exotic, tightly intense, expansive, very rich, long, and complex. Drink 2010 for many years. Excellent.
Les Lys – Wines of elegance and finesse.
2008 Floral fruit with soft acidity, very mineral, great length and aftertaste, dry finish but in the nicest sense, elegant and feminine. Drink from 2011. Very Good.
2007 Closed nose, delicious fruit, peachy, with elegance and finesse, a fine balance, and clean finish. A wine of class. Still needs a year. Drink 2010 to 2016. Excellent.
Vaillons – The best Vaillons by far.
2008 Closed on the nose but palate shows lovely fruit with delicious mouth puckering acidity, yellow fruits, nutty, mineral typicité, perfumed, long and beautiful aftertaste. Lovely wine. Drink from 2011. Excellent.
2007 Gentle nose here, elegant, floral, and feminine, with kiwi and passion fruit, some intensity, good length and a crisp clean finish. Drink 2010 to 2016. Very Good.
2006 Gentle fruit on nose, some elegance, floral and feminine, with kiwi and passion fruit again, good intensity, length and aftertaste, and a crisp clean finish. Delicious. Drinking now, so enjoy for 4 to 5 years. Excellent.
GRANDS CRUS
Bougros 2006 Closed nose, a little smoky, this is a big powerful wine, masculine and rich. Fills the mouth with wonderful intense fruit, lots of acidity for longevity, with excellent length and finish. Drink 2012 onwards. Excellent.
Vaudésir2007 Forget that this is a négociant wine – this is very good. Nose of typicité, elegant intense powerful fruit with great length and aftertaste. Lovely minerality and all round typicité. Drink 2012 onwards. Very Good.
THE WINE GUIDE – 3rd Edition , Andreas LARSSON – Vintage 2007
MY TOP PICKS:
Chablis vieille vigne
Nutty with young white fruit, high freshness and some lightly roasted flavours on the aftertaste, needs time.
I LIKED:
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet
Young, fruity, green apples, citrusy and fresh on the palate, fair length.
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros
Nice ripe nose, stone fruits and roasted nuts, very broad and unctuous palate, yet underlined by a good freshness, long finish, well-made and accessible, slightly creamy on the finish.
LE GUIDE HACHETTE 2010
Chablis 2007 *
The Chablis from domain Bernard Defaix was awarded as one of the best on vintage 2005 ("coup de coeur"). The 2007 shows a very expressive nose, its floral aromas are supported by a good minerality. It is the same as for the mouth : an intense and straight forward attack reveals strong notes of honeysuckle. Length, fineness, purity, all the characteristics of a great Chablis. Perfect to marry with grilled fish, in one or two years.
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet 2007*
For a winegrower in Milly, the Premier Cru Côte de Lechet stands to reason. The Bernard Defaix domain kept with tradition, producing a wine for ageing, that will opens up in the cellar, and which, at present, only expresses notes of gun-flint, typical of the terroir. A 2007 wine in evolution and which is full of promises.
Also mentionned, the 1er Cru Les Lys 2007 is more aromatic in mouth. To drink from now, preferably at the aperitif.
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2007**
This Bougros lacked almost nothing to get a “coup de coeur” like the 2000 vintage. It will have to do with two stars, like the 2005 one. This wine, very greedy, reveals vanilla and brioche notes to the nose. The butter comes with flavours of dried fruit and citrus fruit. Roundness and liveliness bring harmony and style. You feel like the whole terroir is sitting at table, with roasted scallop, for example.
More mineral but less complex, the Grand Cru Vaudésir 2007 shows a good balance on a basis of citrus, and in that way gets a star. However, regarding these two wines, one’s will have to be patient, 4 to 5 years.
Rully 1er cru Clos du Chapitre 2007*
Hélène Jaeger took over, in 2002 the domain of her great aunt Henriette Niepce, descendant of Nicéphore Niepce, the photography’s inventor. She shows here, in association with her husband Didier Defaix, wine grower in Chablis, a red Rully of a great fineness. After a garnet-red colour, one’s finds a rich nose of blue fruit and coffee notes. After a soft attack, the mouth is filled with a dense and full substance, structured by delicate and elegant tannins. Final notes of ripe fruit and spices prolong the pleasure. To taste in two or three years’ time with some game.
A finish a little pungent, overtones of flower and vanilla distinguish the white 1er Cru Mont-Palais 2007, mentionned.
LES MEILLEURS VINS DE FRANCE 2010 (Guide vert)
Domaine Bernard Defaix
Sylvain and Didier Defaix are now managing the family domain, whose vineyard is situated on the left bank of the Serein river. Their Chablis is lively and floral, their 1st cru are a bit less known than those of the right bank, but reserve beautiful surprises in the hot years, particularly on terroirs of Côte de Lechet. Thanks to skilfull vinification and to ageing on the fine lees in tank, the wines gain more fat and are protected against oxidation. The wines from the wine-merchant business are just having the brand Bernard Defaix.
The wines : fine vintage, fresh and straight, 2007 shows fruity fineness on the Petit Chablis ; The Chablis is well-rounded, very much lemon-flavoured. And then, the Chablis Vieille Vigne is more smoky. Coming from the Milly domain, the Côte de Lechet Réserve 2007 is one of the best Chablis of this area, as much for its maturity as for its precision. The strong minerality of the Vaillons needs 5 to 6 years of ageing.
Chablis Premier Cru Côte de Lechet Réserve 2007 16/20
Chablis Premier Cru Les Vaillons 2007 15/20
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2007 14,5/20
Chablis Premier Cru Côte de Lechet 2007 14,5/20
Chablis 2007 14/20
Domaine Jaeger-DefaixIn 2002, Hélène Jaeger took over her first plot on Rully 1er cru coming from her great-aunt Henriette Niepce, descendant of the famous inventor Niepce, and then the whole domain in 2005. Wife of Didier Defaix, wine grower in Chablis, she applies there the principles of great wines with plowed soils and manual harvests. The wines are vinified in Chablis’s cellar that has all necessary equipment; the white wines are fermented and aged in barrels.
The wines : the Rully white Les Cloux is supple and pleasant, while Rabourcé has a final a little warmer. Both red wines show quite easy.
Rully Premier Cru Les Cloux 2007 13,5/20
Rully Premier Cru Rabourcé 2007 13,5/20
LE GRAND GUIDE DES VINS DE FRANCE 2010, Bettane & Desseauve
Didier Defaix manages the family domain, which offers a large range of seven wines, completed with a little activity of wine merchant, specially with the Grands Crus, under the brand of Bernard Defaix. The Côte de Lechet Réserve is at the top, as it often is.
Chablis 2007 12,5/20
Floral, well balanced, with a medium strength, although quite fragant.
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Bernard Defaix 2007 14,5/20
Powerful, a good volume in the mouth, hearty aromas of white and yellow fruit. Well-balanced.Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir Bernard Defaix 2007 14/20
Powerful, a rather rich nose and the same in the mouth, more in width than in length.
Chablis Premier Cru Côte de Lechet 2007 14/20
Floral, with a rounded mouth, a pure and fresh finish.
Chablis Premier Cru Côte de Lechet Réserve 2007 14,5/20
More fragant, more fruity than the "regular" Côte de Lechet.
Chablis Premier Cru Les Lys 2007 13,5/20
Floral, with undergrowth notes. The mouth is really well-rounded, a wine to drink from now.
Chablis Premier Cru Les Vaillons 2007 14/20
More fleshy than Les Lys, with a tenser mouth, a better balance.
Chablis Vieille Vigne 2007 13,5/20
Elegant, well-rounded, a good maturity, with fat in the mouth.
Petit Chablis 2007 12/20
Sinewy, though with a little lack of body and substance.
BOURGOGNE AUJOURD'HUI n°87 APRIL-MAY 2009
Chablis 1er cru Cote de Lechet 2007 - 15/20
A Chablis which asserts volume and maturity in the mouth. The finish is a little more strict. As well the nose seems reserved. The whole combination has to melt away with ageing. A wine in evolution.
Chablis 2007 - 15/20
The nose is really the one of a Chablis wine : straight and mineral. The mouth is rich, of a higher fullness than the average in that vintage. The finish is fresh. An harmonious Chablis.
BURGHOUND.COM, oct 2008 - Allen Meadows
Didier Defaix said that 2007 was, in a sense, "the exact opposite of 2006. In 2006, it was a mad rush to get the fruit in as there was some rot pressure even though acidities weren't really changing much. In 2007, we began picking on the 12th of September and harvested over a leisurely 3 weeks as the fruit was very clean. We weren't really affected seriously by the hail storms and lost perhaps 10% of the total crop. Sugars ranged between 11 and 13% with solid but not really high acidities. We did a normal lees settling because the fruit was so clean though we did a fair amount of lees stirring as the wines seemed borderline severe during their élevage. The primary fermentation went off without a hitch though I was surprised that the malos also proceeded normally as there was a lot of malic acid. The malos made a fairly dramatic impact as the finishing pHs averaged right around 3.3, which is not especially low. In terms of the wines, for me 2007 is a more concentrated 2004. The 2004s were stricter young, which is another reason why we decided to work more with the lees in '07 than we did in '04." The Defaix 2006s have turned out more or less as originally previewed with no surprises up or down. It's clear though that while they're lovely wines, they're not in the class of the Defaix '04s, '05s or '07s, particularly the latter and I especially recommend them to readers and Chablis fans should add the Defaix brothers to their short list of rising stars. (Winebow, Inc, Montvale, NJ; Alliance Wines and Domaine Direct, UK).
2007 Petit Chablis: An expressive green fruit and sea salt nose leads to racy, intense and attractively mineral-infused flavors that possess lovely underlying tension and energy plus better than average length. Very fine quality at this level. 87/2010+
2007 Chablis: A classic Chablis nose features oyster shell, sea shore notes and iodine suffused green fruit that complements slightly bigger and richer flavors that also offer excellent intensity on the long, bone dry and stony finish. There is nothing else that this could be except Chablis. 88/2011+
2007 Chablis – Vieilles Vignes: (from 45+ year old vines that see 20% oak but no new wood and no cold stabilization). In 2007, this closely resembles the aromatic profile and character of the straight Chablis except there is more mid-palate concentration as well as superior depth and length. Terrific quality for its level and highly recommended. (88-91)/2011+
2007 Chablis "Les Lys": (this saw 10-15% oak treatment). A ripe, pure and ultra refined nose that is both airy and lacy while displaying softly seductive aromas of sea breeze, white pear, spice hints and iodine nuances that continue onto the intense, detailed and superbly precise middle weight flavors that are a study in delicacy yet deliver outstanding flavor authority on the austere and understated finish. I really like the style of this as there is elegance but grip. (89-92)/2012+
2007 Chablis "Vaillons": (almost all Vaillons proper with a bit of Séchet). An overtly spicy nose has lemon zest and sea breeze nuances to the ripe green fruit aromas that merge into almost painfully intense, precise and very firm medium-bodied flavors supported by a solid acid spine and pungent minerality. There is not the finesse here of the Les Lys but this is more powerful. A stylistic choice. (89-92)/2012+
2007 Chablis "Côte de Lechet": As the best examples of Lechet always are, this boasts an ultra elegant nose of citrus blossom, oyster shell, warm stone and lemon zest, the latter of which is also reflected by the textured, racy, detailed and bone dry flavors brimming with plenty of Chablis character on the exceptionally long and austere finish. This is a classic old school style of Chablis. In a word, excellent. (90-92)/2012+
2007 Chablis "Côte de Lechet - Reserve": (from 50+ year old vines aged in 40% oak though none of it is new). A subtle touch of wood highlights a similar if slightly riper nose that has a touch of menthol as well that can be found on the exceptionally rich, layered and intense flavors that possess good size and weight yet lose no sense of detail or delineation because of it, all wrapped in an explosive finish. In sum, an exceptionally promising example. (91-93)/2013+
2007 Chablis "Fourchaume": (from Fourchaume proper). Blind, it would be almost impossible to guess anything other than Chablis as this displays a positively classic nose of salt air, oyster shell and green fruit that is both pure, layered and elegant before giving way to round, naturally sweet and concentrated flavors that stain the palate with sap, all wrapped in a wonderfully intense, powerful and driving finish. Also very promising. (90-93)/2013+
2007 Chablis - Vaudésir: This is also utterly classic with ripe, pure and classy aromas that are set off by a discreet touch of wood before preceding concentrated, deep, layered and notably serious relatively big-bodied flavors yet this remains a wine of finesse and elegance as the minerally finish is both focused and hugely long. The balance is perfect and this could surprise to the upside as there is a huge reserve of underlying material present. (92-94)/2014+
2007 Chablis - Bougrоs: A deft touch of wood seamlessly works into the mix of ripe floral and green fruit aromas that are in keeping with the intense, pure and notably energetic broad-shouldered flavors that explode on the almost brutal finish. This is an impressively scaled, powerful and concentrated wine that is massively long as it is blessed with serious amounts of dry extract and the only nit here is a trace of backend warmth. (91-94)/2014+
2006 Chablis – Vieilles Vignes: (from 45+ year old vines that see 20% oak but no new wood and no cold stabilization). The aromas here are notably ripe with exotic notes of yellow fruit and honeysuckle trimmed in very deft wood that can also be picked up on the very rich, even opulent flavors blessed with ample concentration on the mouth coating finish. Very solid quality though in a style that is clearly marked by the vintage. 88/2009
2006 Chablis "Les Lys": (this saw 10-15% oak treatment). An expressive nose of gentle wood notes and very fresh floral, white peach and pear aromas that merge into round, intense, classy and long flavors that don't have quite the concentration of the Vieilles Vignes but are considerably finer. This is lovely, understated and relatively forward. Worth a look. 90/2010+
2006 Chablis "Vaillons":(almost all Vaillons proper with a bit of Séchet).This too sports a gentle touch of wood that highlights the ripe and spicy but distinctly reduced floral aromas that complement the round, generous, even opulent flavors culminating in a citrus-infused finish that is delicious but doesn't have the same punch and vibrancy. Be sure to decant this first for 20 minutes or so as the reduction is more than noticeable. 89/2010+
2006 Chablis "Côte de Lechet": An elegant, pure and airy nose of exotic fruit, citrus blossom and lemon rind yields to round yet detailed flavors that exhibit more minerality than any of the preceding wines and possess excellent energy plus more obvious Chablis character. In sum, this is as refined and lovely as the Les Lys but not quite as long. 89/2009+
2006 Chablis "Côte de Léchet - Reserve": (from 50+ year old vines aged in 40% oak though none of it is new). While as usual, this clearly has more material than the regular cuvée, it's actually less elegant though it is exceptionally rich and positively oozes dry extract that drenches the palate on the textured, opulent, dry and powerful finish that is seriously long. There is a bit of wood that comes up on the backend but this is impressively scaled. 90/2010+
2006 Chablis "Fourchaume": (from Fourchaume proper). A deft touch of wood sets off an openly exotic and expressive nose of ripe green and yellow fruit nuanced by hints of sea breeze and iodine that can also be found on the very rich, forward and concentrated medium full flavors that are also textured and mouth coating as there is ample dry extract on the mineral‑infused and opulent finish. 89/2009+
2006 Chablis - Vaudésir:Noticeable but not dominant wood frames spicy and very ripe floral and yellow fruit aromas. The detailed, focused and wonderfully pure flavors are refined, powerful and detailed while culminating in an intense, mouth coating and persistent finish that is almost thick. Compared to the Fourchaume, there is just a bit more of everything, especially mid-palate concentration. 91/2011+
2006 Chablis - Bougros: The prominent wood that this displayed last year has now been almost completely integrated and sets off ripe green and dried yellow fruit aromas that are in keeping with the big, muscled and powerful flavors that are thick, lush and opulent, all wrapped in a delicious and explosive finish that is both balanced and mouth coating. This is a dramatic wine and while it's not my style, a tip of the cap for managing to keep such a big wine focused. 91/2011+
Domaine Jaeger-Defaix (RulIy)
This is a new domaine whose first vintage was 2003. It is run by Didier Defaix (see Chablis) as the vineyards belonged to the great aunt of his wife, who until the Defaix' took over, sold the production as grapes. The domaine comprises 4 ha with five 1ers and as the vineyards are slowly brought under the Defaix team's management, they will expand production. The grapes are presently vinified in Chablis, which makes for a roughly two hour drive. Interestingly, Defaix suggested that 2007 "needs time, perhaps even more than 2005 in white though the reds should come around relatively quickly." (Winebow, Inc, Montvale, NJ; Alliance Wines and Domaine Direct, all UK).
Whites:
2007 Rully "Mont Palais": A very subtle touch of wood sets off ripe aromas of honeysuckle and citrus that merge into supple, round and agreeable flavors that possess reasonably good detail and fine finishing precision. A balanced effort with fine length. (88-90)/2011+
2007 Rully "Les Cloux":Brioche and vanilla notes presently struggle with reticent white flower aromas that introduce more concentrated and intense medium-bodied flavors that benefit from solid acid support on the rich, minerally and long finale. Lovely if a bit too woody for me but note that the wood does not upset the overall balance. (89-91)/2011+
2007 Rully "Rabourcé": A moderately toasty nose frames white flower and lemon zest notes that complement the rich, full and naturally sweet middle weight flavors that finish with a seductive texture, fine depth and excellent length. This is almost a hypothetical blend of the prior two wines. Recommended. (89-92)/2012+
2006 Rully "Mont Palais": This is quite ripe with a floral and muscat suffused nose with medium weight flavors that possess excellent intensity and punch on the notably mineral finish. This is quite dry and should age well for 1 to 2 years. 88/2010+
2006 Rully "Les Cloux": A ripe but not necessarily exotic nose of green apple and acacia blossom marry into pure and more refined flavors that also possess a fine minerality on the detailed, racy and precise finish where the present level of depth is quite good if not sensational. Worth a look. 90/2010+
2006 Rully "Rabourcé": As was the case in 2007, this is almost like a blend of the Les Cloux and Mont Palais with its lightly exotic floral-infused nose that is followed by rich, full, pure and relatively powerful flavors that possess solid dry extract that confers an almost chewy texture to the mouth coating finish. This is not an elegant wine but there is plenty of both personality and character. 90/2011+
Reds:
2007 Rully "Préaux": A very fresh and actually quite ripe nose of red berry fruit that evidences subtle earth notes that give way to supple, round and detailed medium-bodied flavors that possess good energy and mildly dry finish. I would suggest drinking this on the young side. (86-88)/2010+
2007 Rully "Clos du Chapitre": Very mild oak toast notes combine with ripe red raspberry, cherry and warm earth aromas lead to rich, round, forward and supple flavors that are easy but not simple with a tasty and tangy finish. There is a bit better phenolic ripeness evident on the structural elements and this should repay 2 to 4 years of cellar time. (86-89)/2011+
2006 Rully "Préaux": A very pretty red pinot fruit nose that displays very discreet sauvage, underbrush and earth nuances that are in keeping with the supple, round and relatively sophisticated tannins that culminate in a delicious, textured, complex and utterly delicious finish. One could easily drink this now. 88/2009+
2006 Rully "Clos du Chapitre": Light ruby. A considerably higher-toned, and highly expressive, nose of raspberry and cranberry aromas transitions very supple, forward and delicious flavors that possess more finesse than is typically displayed
by wines from this appellation. Approachable now. 87/now+
LE GUIDE HACHETTE 2009
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lehet 2006* : Honesty and balance, two words which characterize the wines of the domain. And on top of that this rusticity which symbolizes the Côte de Lechet. The nose still a little bit shy but already complex reveals citrus fruits and white flowers notes on an elegant wooded bottom. The mouth is more expressive, tinged with minerality which imposes its style, with some toasted notes. The proof of a well managed ageing. A salmon (smoked, of course!) would be the good match.
Rully 1er cru Préaux red 2006 : Hélène Jaeger and her husband, Didier Defaix, do the splits over Burgundy: one foot in Chablis and, since 2002, the other foot in Côte Chalonnaise with these 4.50 ha on Rully. The nose intensity of this 2006 is still discreet, but already complex: red fruits, vanilla and prune. The mouth is soft and supple, elegant and fruity. The melted tannins compose in finale a velvety cover. Flattering from now on, a wine to be served on delicatessen.
LES MEILLEURS VINS DE FRANCE 2009 (Guide vert)
Domaine Bernard Defaix
Sylvain and Didier Defaix are now managing the family domain situated on the left bank of the Serein river. Their Chablis is frank and floral, their 1st cru are a bit less known than those of the right bank, but reserve beautiful surprises in the hot years, particularly on terroirs of Côte de Lechet. Thanks to skilful vinification and to ageing on the fine lees in tank, the wines gain more fat and are protected against the oxidation. The wines from the wine-merchant business are just having the brand Bernard Defaix.
The wines : The vintage 2006 is more suitable for the lemony simplicity of the Petit Chablis than for the Chablis, pleasant but in which we smell a bit too much the alcoholic heat of the vintage.
The Vieille Vigne (45 years old) still presents its usual generous bouquet of bergamot orange and basil. The wines have to be drunk from now. Concerning the premier crus, menthol and chalk characterize the underrated Premier cru of Milly, The Lys, more liquorice on the finish than the jewel of the series, The Côte de Lechet Réserve. The wine-merchant business selection is more common because of lacteous woodiness very pronounced on the Fourchaume and up to the Grands crus which do not miss length (Bougros in particular).
Domaine Jaeger-Defaix
In 2002 Hélène Jaeger took over her first plot on Rully 1er cru coming from her great-aunt Henriette Niepce, descendant of the famous inventor Niepce, and then the whole domain in 2005. Wife of Didier Defaix, wine grower in Chablis, she applies there the principles of great wines with worked soils and manual harvests. The wines are vinified in Chablis’s cellar that has all necessary equipment; the white wines pass in casks.
The wines: In white, the Rully Premier cru Mont Palais possesses a nice mineral nose, associated with a full and woody mouth; the structure is imposing with a beautiful maturity.
The Rully Premier cru Rabourcé is ample, fleshy and woody with a good structure, whereas the Rully Premier cru Cloux is elegant and rather racy. In red, the Rully Premier cru Preaux is fragrant and rather fine, and the Rully Premier cru Clos du Chapitre, coming from a plot completely closed by stone walls, possesses a light and fragrant structure, very elegant; the whole is long and fine.
LE GRAND GUIDE DES VINS DE FRANCE 2009, Bettane & Desseauve
Didier Defaix manages the family domain, which proposes a wide range of 7 wines (1 Petit Chablis, 2 Chablis, et 4 Chablis Premier cru) and completes this list with a small wine-merchant activity, in particular with Grands crus under the brand Bernard Defaix. On the beginning of the range (Petit Chablis and Chablis), we could wait for a bit more expression and personality; but the superior cuvées (Vieille Vigne, Premiers and Grands Crus) are gourmand and pure, with careful ageing.
Chablis Grand cru Bougros 2006 (16/20) : The mouth is neat, with a round attack. It is a pulpy wine, that tightens at the end of mouth. Good tension. Careful ageing.
Chablis Grand cru Vaudésir 2006 (15.5/20) : A delicate and fine wine, with a great ageing. White fruits on the nose and a spicy and toasted touch on the mouth.
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet 2006 (15/20) : A discreet nose, but with frank and neat aromas. The mouth is ripe, with a great salinity. Good minerality for this complete and elegant wine.
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet Réserve 2006 (15.5/20) : Touches of citrus fruits and yellow fruits. The mouth is pure with notes of sweet spices.
Chablis 1er cru Fourchaume 2006 (15.5/20) : Pure, concentrated, ripe. The mouth is round with citrus fruits on the finish.
Chablis 1 er cru Vaillons 2006 (15/20) : A more concentrated wine than The Lys. The aromas of the mouth are gourmand. Round finish, a wine with a good flesh.
Chablis Vieille Vigne 2006 (14.5/20) : The nose is fine and delicate, ripe and frank. The attack is net, frank, it is a pure and delicate wine.
BOURGOGNE AUJOURD’HUI October-November 2007
Domaine Jaeger-Defaix
This domain of 4.5 hectares ( 100 % on Rully) is managed by Hélène Jaeger-Defaix (little niece of Henriette Niepce) since 2005, she is married with Didier Defaix who runs the domain Bernard Defaix in Chablis. The two domains are separated for the work in the vineyard, but they work together for the winemaking and the marketing of the Chablis and Rully’s.
Rully 1er cru white Mont Palais 2005: “A nice terroir wine with a fresh and mineral style, with a good persistency on the mouth” comments a seduced taster.
Rully 1er cru white Rabourcé 2005 : A nice and complex nose with minerality and white flowers. The wine is fresh, pure, mentholated, elegant with a good length.Rully 1er cru red Clos du Chapitre 2005 : As a lot of 2005’s red wines, the wine is closed up. But the richness of the texture, the purity of the fruit and the length on the mouth are announcing a very promising future.
BOURGOGNE AUJOURD’HUI April-May 2008 special premier cru and grand cru 2006
This domain is a good example of the evolutions we would like to see more often in Chablis. The 2 brothers Defaix, Sylvain et Didier, are making a very rigorous work in the vineyard. The disbudding (process that consists in eliminating the superfluous buds at springtime) is always made here. And twice more than one time. 'In 2006, we have even made 2 disbuddings. And I don't regret it." The enrichment are also very reasoned. So you won't be surprised to to taste here Chablis' with a great concentration. You can add to this the preservation of an old vines patrimony: the wines coming from there, chablis vieille vigne and premier cru cote-de-lechet Reserve, have a magnificent depth without loosing the chablisian freshness. The domain spreads over 26 hectares and, curiosity, works also on 4 hectares in Rully (côte chalonnaise); a vineyard owned by Hélène Jaeger, the wife of Didier Defaix.
Premier cru Fourchaume 2006: Very nice nose, elegant and distinguished that leans on ripe fruits notes, a grilled woody and mineral hints. The mouth is remarkable by its balance and its frankness. The finish is subbtle and tasty with a good use of wood. A wine with a great potential for ageing.
Premier cru Vaillons 2006: A complex nose with honey, wax, candied lemon and grilled hazelnut. The mouth is round with a good tension and notes of truffles and chalk. The finish is long and delicious with a great minerality. A great bottle.
Premier cru Cote de Lechet 2006: Nice and expressive nose, on hazelnut, almond with a nice toasted-grilled. On the mouth, the wine is very nice, supple and rich with an integrated woody.
Grand Cru Bougros 2006: Nose full and open on ripe fruits aromas with spicy notes. The attack on mouth is fresh, followed by a full mid-mouth and a persistant finish. A wine with a great fineness.
LA REVUE DU VIN DE FRANCE special vintage 2007
Chablis 1er cru Cote de Lechet 2007 (rated between 17.5 and 15.5/20): A high level wine. Volume, rectitude, persistancy: Didier Defaix confirms his high level of production with this Lechet and also with the Vaillons (15.5/20) all on fineness and chalky reserve. Obviously Chablis' from the terroir.
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2007 (17/20) and Vaudésir 2007 (16/20): Fineness and volume, with a great length all on subtlety. The Vaudesir associates vulume and freshness and a finish also subtle. The domain is on top from.
Rabourcé et Cloux under the spot lights: our rully's are a big hit on an US TV show performed by Gary Vaynerchuk for the Wine Library, one of the most important shop on the East coast in the US: watch the video
VINTAGE ASSESSMENTS, CANADA - July 2008
Chablis 1er cru Cote de Lechet 2005 - Classy **+/*** - Recommended
Bright light straw colour. Classy, fairly intense, nutty, ripe lemon nose with hints of melon and lots of minerality. Dry, well structured, medium bodied, ripe lemon-melon flavours with a rich mid palate and a bright, slightly nutty lemon-melon-tinged finish.
BURGHOUND.COM,
October 2007
Domaine Bernard Defaix - Chablis
Didier Defaix said that 2006 was "a bit like 2005 in the sense that
we had a wet August and a splendid September. The trick in 2006 though was
choosing the date of the harvest and it was no cinch to make this decision
because the acidity was declining very slowly so it wasn't obvious. We began
picking on September 18th and brought in slightly lower yields than normal
with sugars that averaged between 12 and 13.5%. Both fermentations proceeded
relatively easily and they were fast. We normally do an extended élevage
but in 2006, we removed all but the fine lees as the wines were already rich
enough and I wanted to avoid inadvertently creating heavy or inelegant wines."
I have said it before but it bears repeating: The improvement at this estate
has been nothing short of phenomenal. Chablis fans should add the Defaix brothers
to their short list of rising stars.
(Winebow, Inc, Montvale, NJ; Alliance Wines and Domaine Direct, UK).
2006 Petit Chablis: Here the nose is quite ripe but not really exotic
with aromas of yellow orchard fruits that introduce delicious, round and supple
flavors that possess good concentration for a wine at this level. This is
easy to like with enough punch to be interesting. 86/now+
2006 Chablis: A more expressive and slightly fresher nose is, interestingly
enough, not quite as ripe with more obvious Chablis character that leads to
vibrant flavors that possess good detail and better depth. 87/now+
2006 Chablis Vieilles Vignes: (from 45 year old vines that see 20% oak
but no new wood and no cold stabilization). The aromas here are also notably
ripe with notes of yellow fruit and honeysuckle trimmed in very deft wood
that can also be picked up on the very rich, even opulent flavors blessed
with ample concentration and a mouth coating finish. (86-89)/2008+
2006 Chablis "Les Lys": (this saw 10-15% oak treatment). An
expressive nose of gentle wood notes and floral, white peach and pear aromas
that merge into round, intense, classy and long flavors that don't have quite
the concentration of the Vieilles Vignes but are considerably finer. This
is lovely, understated and relatively forward. (89-91)/2009+
2006 Chablis "Vaillons": (almost all Vaillons proper with a
bit of Séchet). This too sports a gentle touch of wood that highlights
the ripe and spicy floral aromas that complement the round, generous, even
opulent flavors that culminate in a citrus-infused finish that is delicious
but doesn't have the same punch and vibrancy. (88-90)/2009+
2006 Chablis "Côte de Léchet": An elegant, pure
and airy nose of citrus blossom and lemon rind yields to round yet detailed
flavors that exhibit more minerality than any of the preceding wines that
possess excellent energy plus more obvious Chablis character. Lovely. (89-91)/2010+
2006 Chablis "Côte de Léchet Réserve": (from
50 year old vines aged in 40% oak though none of it is new). While as usual,
this clearly has more material than the regular cuvée, it's actually
less elegant though it is exceptionally rich and positively oozes dry extract
that drenches the palate on the textured, opulent and powerful finish that
is seriously long. Qualitatively, these wines are identical but stylistically,
they are worlds apart. A choice. (89-91)/2010+
2006 Chablis "Fourchaume" (from Fourchaume proper). A deft touch
of wood sets off an expressive nose of ripe green fruit nuanced by hints of
sea breeze and iodine that can also be found on the very rich and concentrated
medium full flavors that are also textured and mouth coating as there is ample
dry extract on the mineral-infused finish. Good juice that should age over
the medium term. (89-92)/2011+
2006 Chablis Vaudésir:
Noticeable but not dominant wood that stops short of being intrusive and fights
somewhat with the spicy and very ripe floral and yellow fruit aromas. The
detailed, focused and wonderfully pure flavors are refined and detailed while
culminating in an intense finish brimming with Chablis character. Compared
to the Fourchaume, there is just a bit more of everything. (90-93)2011+
2006 Chablis Bougros: Even more prominent wood that is now no longer
discreet tussles with ripe green and yellow fruit aromas that are in keeping
with the big, muscled and powerful flavors that are thick, lush and opulent,
all wrapped in a delicious and explosive finish that is both balanced and
mouth coating. This is a dramatic wine and while it's not my style; a tip
of the cap for managing to keep such a big wine focused. (90-93)/2011+
2005 Chablis Vieilles Vignes: (from 45 year old vines that see 20%
oak but no new wood and no cold stabilization). The wood has now largely integrated
and does not prevent notes of citrus, pear and iodine from soaring from the
glass. The flavors are ripe, rich and admirably powerful and punchy with plenty
of acid support on the long mineral-infused finish. The only nit is a slight
touch of warmth but overall, this is a very impressive effort at this level
and definitely worth a look. 89/2009+
2005 Chablis "Les Lys": (this saw 10 15% oak treatment).
The wood here is also much more modulated as the floral and seaweed inflected
nose is airy and high-toned with pretty and nicely refined middle weight flavors
that are supple yet precise, all wrapped around a ripe core of acidity and
an energetic finish where notes of oyster shell can be found too. Lovely and
a candidate for medium term aging.90/2010+
2005 Chablis "Vaillons": (almost all Vaillons proper with
a bit of Séchet). Subtle notes of pain grillé and wood spice
frame white flower and citrus aromas that are distinctly riper than those
of the Les Lys and this too has excellent vibrancy to the medium full flavors
that cut like knife on the persistent and seriously intense finish that is
notably dry. This has real personality and plenty of Chablis character.90/2011+
2005 Chablis "Côte de Léchet": Pain grillé
and brioche notes highlight the intense lemon/lime nose as well as the rich,
full, delicious and pungently mineral flavors that are almost painfully intense,
particularly on the chiseled and driving linear finish that possesses a potent
mix of oyster shell, iodine and seaweed nuances. Terrific potential fashioned
in a rather old school style that won't be for those who are looking for easy
and round Chablis. 91/2011+
2005 Chablis "Côte de Léchet Réserve":
(from 50 year old vines aged in 50% oak though none of it is new). Take the
straight Côte de Léchet and dial up slightly the size, richness,
intensity and sheer palate impact and you have this wine. It's very impressive,
the wood has integrated and it oozes Chablis character with both oyster shell
and that wonderful saline component, all wrapped in an explosive finish of
serious length. It should reward 5 to 7 years of cellar time. 92/2012+
2005 Chablis "Fourchaume": Moderate wood serves as a backdrop
for very ripe aromas of peach, white pear and seaweed that introduce intense,
powerful and relatively big flavors that offer plenty of volume and this just
brims with minerality on the muscular finish. This is really quite a forceful
wine and while acidity is certainly ripe, this is a structured effort that
will definitely benefit from a few years in the cellar. As good as it is though,
it seems almost easy after the Léchet Réserve. 90/2010+
2005 Chablis Vaudésir: Much more obvious wood combines with
even riper aromas that stop just short of being exotic and the big, powerful
and solidly structured flavors are a wonderful combination of grace and strength
all wrapped in simply stunning length. Despite some aromatic flamboyance,
the finish is understated and classic Chablis with ample oyster shell character
on the very dry finish. Outstanding cellar potential with this one. 92/2012+
2005 Chablis Bougros: Most of the upper level wines have displayed
varying degrees of wood influence but here it's been largely eaten thus giving
center stage to the fresh and pure citrus and white flower aromas that introduce
thick, opulent, even unctuous flavors that drench and stain the palate with
buckets of sap and this is the longest wine among these '05s as the length
simply does not quit. This is not really my preferred style as it's more Côte
d'Or than Chablis but there is no denying that this is one seriously impressive
wine and it's not just a matter of size and weight, it's balanced too and
will age. 93/2012+
Domaine Jaeger-Defaix - Rully
This is a brand new domaine whose first vintage was 2003. It is run by Didier
Defaix (see Chablis) as the vineyards belonged to the great aunt of his wife,
who until the Defaix' took over, sold the production as grapes. The domaine
comprises 4 ha with 5 1ers and as the vineyards are slowly brought under the
Defaix team's management, they will expand production. The grapes are presently
vinified in Chablis, which makes for a roughly two hour drive. As such, Defaix
did not have samples of his '06s available but I did have a chance to revisit
the '05s that are now in bottle. (Winebow, Inc, Montvale, NJ; Alliance Wines
and Domaine Direct, all UK).
2005 Rully"Mont Palais" white: Subtle pain grillé,
vanilla, citrus and white pear aromas overlay round, rich and textured flavors
that possess good detail and overall, this is wine of finesse rather than
power with a tangy and attractively dry finish. A very nice if slightly woody
effort. 88/2008+
2005 Rully"Les Cloux" white : Subtle wood with a hint of
vanilla frames ripe green fruit aromas and round, rich, even opulent and sweet
flavors that offer good volume and mid-palate fat plus serious intensity on
the very dry finish. There is a pretty touch of finishing minerality and though
the wood resurfaces as well, it's more of a nuance than something intrusive.
90/2010+
2005 Rully"Rabourcé" white: Here the moderately wooded
nose displays notes of citrus, pear as well as ripe green fruit and subtle
menthol aromas that can also be found on the bigger and richer flavors that
culminate in a very dry and more structured finish. This is quite ripe with
a focused, punch and bone dry finish. Excellent potential here as there is
a lot of dry extract which will allow the wine to age over the medium term.
Terrific. 90/2010+
2005 Rully "Préaux" red : A wonderfully seductive
nose redolent of dark cherry and very pinot red fruit aromas is followed by
rich, sweet and delicious light to middle weight flavors that are surprisingly
fine. This is not a big or particularly structured wine but it is very attractive
in a simple yet elegant fashion. 88/2009+
2005 Rully"Clos du Chapitre" red: More deeply pitched aromas
of dark red and blue fruits, particularly plum, introduce earthy, rich, full
and sweet flavors that are also utterly delicious, all wrapped in a more structured
and powerful finish. This offers excellent quality for a Rully red and is
recommended. 89/2011+
VINTAGE ASSESSMENT (Canada) July 2008
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet 2005
Bright light straw colour. Classy, fairly intense, nutty, ripe lemon nose with hints of melon and lots of minerality. Dry, well structured, medium bodied, ripe lemon-melon flavours with a rich mid palate and a bright, slightly nutty lemon-melon-tinged finish.
LE GUIDE HACHETTE 2008: one of our wines selected as a favorite
Chablis
2005: Here, they practise an environmentally friendly viticulture.
It is not the only quality of this domain, according to the big jury
which selected this Chablis as their favorite. Of clear color, straw
of rye, it amazes by its three graces worthy of Botticelli: freshness,
frankness and complexity. The aromatic style, classic and well established,
plays on notes of white flowers and fresh citrus fruits. And it stays
in the mouth…
Chablis
1er cru Les Lys 2005** : This
"climat" (area) integrated sometimes into Vaillons can justly
claim its name. In the South of Milly and near of Chablis, a 1st historical
cru. Pale, greenish gold, flint and undergrowth, foam, it knows how
to introduce its self. Tank and barrel, but the wood is hardly detectable.
Perfectly mellow and structured, it will wait until 2010 of course.
A bottle like this one inspires respect.
Chablis GranCru Bougros 2005**: Bougros has already brought
chance to the family Defaix (selected as favorite for 2000 vintage).
Other example of a domain creating at the same time a negociant business.
This 2005? Bouquet revealing a fine complexity: notes of ageing (twelve
months in barrel), but also of spices and fruits. Minerality of course.
A serious work for classic Bougros. We know that this grand cru is
strong, but not until the hardness and it is all its secret. Sensation
of liquorice's and
mentholated freshness in mouth.
" To have in the cellar ", concludes an enthusiastic wine
taster.
Rully 1er cru Clos du Chapitre 2005 rouge** : Granddaughter
of the famous photographer Janine Niepce and the daughter of the first
Frenchman who reached the summit of the Everest, Hélène
Jaeger (wife of Didier Defaix, domain Bernard Defaix in Chablis) took
in 2002 the managing of the domain of her great-aunt Henriette Niepce
in Rully (4 ha). Her Clos du Chapitre red is a very admirably presented
wine. Its bouquet combines the charms of the undergrowth and the fruit
of strawberry. The mouth is rich and structured by present but very
fine tannins: power and balance, elegance and fineness. We shall wait
for this bottle two or three years calmly. Do not miss either the
Rully 1er cru Rabourcé blanc 2005*, nor the Rully
1er cru Mont-Palais blanc 2005.
THE BEST OF WINE IN IRELAND 2008
Chablis 1er cru Les Lys 2005
Ripe citrus fruit with a hint of honey, cut through with a mineral delicacy and citrussy acidity. Concentrated, focused finish with lime and minerals.
LES
MEILLEURS VINS DE FRANCE 2008 (guide vert): the Chablis' domain confirms
its position and the one in Rully makes its entrance
Domaine
Bernard Defaix
Sylvain and Didier Defaix are now managing the family domain situated on the
left bank of the Serein river. Their Chablis is lively and floral,
their 1st cru are a bit less known than those of the right bank, but
reserve beautiful surprises in the hot years, particularly on terroirs
of Côte de Lechet. Thanks to skilful vinification and to ageing
on the fine lees in tank, the wines gain more fat and are protected
against the oxidation.
The wines: even if all the wines don't have a perfect aromatic precision
(Petit Chablis and Lys 2005, notably), the good choice can be made
with the Côte de Lechet Vieille Vigne, always very personal,
all on length. Bougros possesses an impressive strength which will
quieten after five years of ageing in cellar, whereas Vaudésir
asserts with fineness and right now.
Domaine
Jaeger-Defaix
This small domain of the Côte chalonnaise makes its entrance
to the guide. Only 4,5 ha of vineyard, perfectly managed, the soils
are plowed. This domain belongs to Hélène Jaeger, wife
of Didier Defaix, wine grower in Chablis. The harvesting is manual
and vinified in the cellar, in Chablis. The whites are vinified in
barrels.
The wines: the Rully Mont-Palais is precise and refined, an great
maturity underlined by judicious using of wood, a beautiful and tense
texture and a good persistency. The Cloux is of a good dimension,
more fat, with notes of milk toffy. The reds are gourmand. The Clos
du Chapitre possesses an intense fruit, a rather flexible and easily
digestible texture. The Préaux is a real juice of cherry, with
a little less structure and a small vegetale touch at the end of the
mouth.
LA
REVUE DU VIN DE FRANCE, July/August 2007
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2005: 16/20 Elegant
wine, a great length with a "strong" final as often on this
grand cru
Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir 2005: 15/20 Elegant and dense
with a good maturity. Final a bit hard and woody for the moment
LA
REVUE DU VIN DE FRANCE, June 2007, special vintage 2006
Chablis Grand cru Vaudésir 2006 : The whole wine is
indisputably rich and deep, but without heaviness nor vulgarity. In
the mouth, the strength is here, the acidity revives well a round
structure.
Rully 1er cru Mont-Palais 2006 : Nice flavours, beautiful acidity
in attack, wood integrated into a round continuation with fat and
good length.
LA
REVUE DU VIN DE FRANCE, October 2007
Domaine Jaeger-Defaix
Premier cru Clos du Chapitre red 2005
Hélène Jaeger-Defaix, the wife of Didier Defaix from
domaine Bernard Defaix in Chablis, took over the domaine of her great-aunt
between 2002 and 2005. Entirely closed with stone walls, the Clos
du Chapitre is located on the Premier cru Chapitre. For the first
vinification, the mouth is dense and very elegant. Beautiful final.
BOURGOGNE
AUJOURD'HUI October-November 2007
Domaine Jaeger-Defaix
This domain of 4.5 hectares ( 100 % on Rully) is managed by Hélène
Jaeger-Defaix (little niece of Henriette Niepce) since 2005, she is
married with Didier Defaix who runs the domain Bernard Defaix in Chablis.
The two domains are separated for the work in the vineyard, but they
work together for the winemaking and the marketing of the Chablis
and Rully's.
Rully 1er cru white Mont Palais 2005: "A nice terroir
wine with a fresh and mineral style, with a good persistency on the
mouth" comments a seduced taster.
Rully 1er cru white Rabourcé 2005 : A nice and complex
nose with minerality and white flowers. The wine is fresh, pure, mentholated,
elegant with a good length.
Rully 1er cru red Clos du Chapitre 2005 : As a lot of 2005's
red wines, the wine is closed up. But the richness of the texture,
the purity of the fruit and the length on the mouth are announcing
a very promising future.
THE GLOBE AND MAIL, Saturday, Feb 24, 2007
Burgundy
fans might want to check out the terrific Bernard Defaix Chablis
Cote de Lechet 04, part of the LCBO's February spotlight on Burgundy.
This light-bodied, classically styled Chablis (a.k.a.chardonnay from
northwestern Burgundy) is deliciously complex, with nuances of flowers,
nuts and minerals and a bracingly crisp finish.
BURGHOUND.COM,
October 2006:
Domaine Bernard Defaix - Chablis
Didier Defaix said that 2005 was a vintage where "we did not have a
great summer but September was perhaps the best that I have ever seen.
We had good if not exceptional yields because we dropped plenty of
crop and it helped as there was almost no rot and really, nearly perfect
cleanliness. Indeed we almost didn't need to sort. Sugars were excellent
and the cool evenings allowed the grapes to retain good acidities
and solid pHs. In contrast to many of my colleagues, I was comfortable
doing plenty of bâtonnage as I thought the wines would benefit
from a bit more mid palate richness. For me, 2005 is a really good
vintage and while I wouldn't call it a truly great vintage, it's close.
It will age and if I had to compare it to recent vintages, I would
say that it's a blend of 2003 and 2004 as it has the richness and
concentration of the former with the acidity and punch of the latter.
More important, I find it to be a complete vintage with everything
it needs to reward enthusiasts who like to age Chablis." The
improvement at this estate has been nothing short of phenomenal and
as the scores and individual wine reviews suggest, this is a flat
out spectacular group of wines and in both vintages. Chablis fans
should add the Defaix brothers to their short list of rising stars.
(Winebow, Inc, Montvale, NJ; Alliance Wines and Domaine Direct, UK).
2005
Petit Chablis: Admirably bright and expressive ripe green fruit
leads to delicious, fresh and attractive flavors that
possess zesty acidity and ample finishing minerality. A nice example
for its level. 86/now+
2005
Chablis: This is more reserved yet more complex with a ripe yet
still entirely classic nose that introduces intense,
precise and very dry flavors that offer excellent definition and a
persistent finish brimming with minerality. This is a terrific
villages with ample Chablis character and recommended. 88/2008+
2005
Chablis Vieilles Vignes: (from 45 year old vines that see 20%
oak but no new wood and no cold stabilization). The wood is presently
not particularly subtle though notes of citrus, pear and iodine are
evident. The flavors are ripe, rich and admirably powerful and punchy
with plenty of acid support on the long finish. This will probably
always have some wood influence yet the concentration is sufficient
that this should integrate the oak over time. Assuming that it does,
this should make for one impressive wine for its level. (87 90)/2009+
2005
Chablis "Les Lys": (this saw 10-15% oak treatment).
The wood here is also not particularly subtle though it's presently
less intrusive as the nose is airy and high toned with pretty and
nicely refined middle weight flavors that are supple yet precise,
all wrapped around a ripe core of acidity and an energetic finish.
Lovely. (88 91)/2009+
2005
Chablis "Vaillons": (almost all Vaillons proper with
a bit of Séchet). Notes of pain grillé and wood spice
frame white flower and citrus aromas that are distinctly riper than
those of the Les Lys and this too has excellent vibrancy to the medium
full flavors that cut like a knife on the persistent and seriously
intense finish. This has real personality and plenty of Chablis character.
(89 91)/2009+
2005
Chablis "Côte de Léchet": Pain grillé
and brioche notes highlight the intense lemon/lime nose as well as
the rich, full, delicious and pungently mineral flavors that are almost
painfully intense, particularly on the chiseled and driving finish
that possesses a potent mix of oyster shell, iodine and seaweed nuances.
Terrific potential. (89 92)/2009+
2005
Chablis "Côte de Léchet Réserve":
(from 50 year old vines aged in 40% oak though none of it is new).
Take the straight Côte de Léchet and dial up slightly
the size, richness, intensity and sheer palate impact and you have
this wine. It's very impressive and should reward 5 to 7 years of
cellar time. (90 92)/2009+
2005
Chablis "Fourchaume": Moderate wood serves as a backdrop
for very ripe aromas of peach, white pear and seaweed that introduce
intense, powerful and relatively big flavors that offer plenty of
volume and this just brims with minerality on the muscular finish.
This is really quite a forceful wine and while the acidity is certainly
ripe, this is a structured effort that will definitely benefit from
a few years in the cellar. (90 92)/2009+
2005
Chablis Vaudésir: Here the wood is already better integrated,
combining with even riper aromas that shot just short of being exotic
and the big, powerful and solidly structured flavors are a wonderful
combination of grace and strength all wrapped in simply stunning length.
Outstanding cellar potential with this one. (91 93)/2010+
2005
Chablis Bougros: Most of the upper level wines have displayed
varying degrees of wood influence but this is the first one to have
any vanilla hints to the exotic and extremely ripe nose and this ripeness
continues onto the thick, opulent, even unctuous flavors that drench
and stain the palate with buckets of sap and this is the longest wine
among these '05s as the length simply does not quit. This is not really
my style but there is no denying that this is one seriously impressive
wine and it's not just a matter of size and weight, it's balanced
too and will age. (91 94)/2010+
2004
Chablis Vieilles Vignes: (from 45 year old vines that see 20%
oak but no new wood and no cold stabilization). A nose of saline,
seaweed and a discreet touch of wood leads to supple, forward and
understated flavors that are delicious if not particularly dense that
culminate in a dry finish that offers good cut and plenty of punch.
This is really a wine of finesse yet there is good character and ample
personality and I very much like the transparency. Terrific villages.
89/2008+
2004
Chablis "Les Lys": (this saw 10 15% oak treatment).
Subtle hints of pain grillé frame somewhat riper and certainly
higher toned floral and citrus aromas that complement beautifully
intense and textured medium full flavors that possess solid concentration
and excellent length. The wood really is a background nuance and even
purists will find this to deliver fine quality crafted in an understated
style that offers plenty of Chablis character. Recommended. 90/2008+
2004
Chablis "Vaillons": (almost all Vaillons proper with a bit
of Séchet). This too displays a subtle touch of wood with a
beautifully layered nose of spice, citrus and white flower fruit aromas
that precede intense, detailed and beautifully crisp yet powerful
medium full flavors that culminate in a robust and saline finish.
The sense of ocean influence here is almost palpable and I very much
admire the explosive finish. Impressive quality here. 91/2009+
2004
Chablis "Côte de Léchet": An ultra pure
and still rather reserved lemon lime and white flower infused nose
merges into round yet delineated flavors that offer good richness
and plenty of sap as well as a wonderfully intense and superbly persistent
and moderately austere finish. The elegance here is notable as is
the balance and this should be capable of at least a decade of life,
perhaps longer if well stored. 91/2009+
2004
Chablis "Côte de Léchet Réserve":
(from 50 year old vines aged in 50% oak though none of it is new).
Noticeable but still modulated wood influence highlights a notably
ripe nose of citrus, peach and apricot nose as well as the rich, full
and sweet flavors that are complex, intense, punchy and precise and
brim with minerality on the palate staining finish. The wood shows
up again on the finish but overall, this is really quite a pretty
wine as the oak is discreet. 92/2009+
2004 Chablis
"Fourchaume": Not surprisingly, this is overall a bigger
wine yet one that positively screams Chablis as it could be from no
other place. Slightly riper aromas of green fruit and floral notes
merge into muscular, pure and vibrant flavors that deliver serious
cut and delineation on the focused and driving finish. This is a marvelous
expression of the vineyard and one that should reward 4 to 5 years
of cellar time and age for decade. 92/2009+
2004
Chablis Vaudésir: This is ripe to the point where there
are subtle exotic hints accompanying the peach and pear aromas framed
by background hints of pain grillé and vanilla that do not
show up on the solidly concentrated flavors blessed with ample dry
extract and even more length. As one would expect, this is a bigger
wine with more depth of material but I marginally prefer the classer
style of the Fourchaume. 92/2010+
2004
Chablis Bougros: This is stylistically quite similar to the '05
version with its very ripe aromas set off against notes of toast and
vanilla with the robust, muscular and solidly structured flavors that
are powerful but the '04 displays more minerality than one usually
finds with the cru plus the length just goes on and on. This is a
seriously impressive wine that has already absorbed most of the wood
treatment. A striking yet harmonious effort. 93!2010+
Domaine
Jaeger-Defaix - Rully
2005 Rully"Les Cloux" 1er cru white (86 89)
2005 Rully"Mont Palais" 1er cru white (87 89)
2005 Rully"Rabourcé" 1er cru white (88 90)
2005 Rully"Clos du Chapitre" 1er cru red (87 90)
2005 Rully"Préaux" 1er cru red (86 89)
This
is a brand new domaine whose first vintage was 2003. It is run by
Didier Defaix (see Chablis) as the vineyards belonged to the great
aunt of his wife, who until the Defaix' took over, sold the production
as grapes. The domaine comprises 4 ha with 5 1ers and as the vineyards
are slowly brought under the Defaix team's management, they will expand
production. The grapes are presently vinified in Chablis, which makes
for a roughly two hour drive. (Winebow, Inc, Montvale, NJ; Alliance
Wines and Domaine Direct, all UK).
2005
Rully"Les Cloux" white : Subtle wood with a hint of
vanilla frames ripe green fruit aromas and round, rich, even opulent
and sweet flavors that offer good volume and mid palate fat. There
is a pretty touch of finishing minerality and the wood resurfaces
as well though it's more of a nuance than something intrusive. (86
89)/2008+
2005
Rully"Mont Palais" white: Subtle pain grillé,
citrus and white pear aromas overlay round, rich and textured flavors
that are slightly finer and more elegant with very nice detail and
overall, this is a wine of finesse rather than the forward and friendly
character of the Les Cloux, which I prefer by the barest of margins.
(87 89)/2008
2005
Rully"Rabourcé" white: Here the nose still displays
fermentation aromas as well as ripe green fruit notes that can also
be found on the bigger and richer flavors that culminate in a very
dry and more structured finish. This is quite ripe and I suspect that
some of the tightness is because the malo just terminated. Excellent
potential here as there is a lot of dry extract which will carry the
quality through even though the wine is clearly in an awkward state
today. (88 90)/2008+
2005
Rully "Préaux" red : A wonderfully seductive
nose redolent of dark cherry and very pinot red fruit aromas is followed
by rich, sweet and delicious light to middle weight flavors that are
surprisingly fine. This is not a big or particularly structured wine
but it is very attractive in a simple yet elegant fashion. (86 89)/2008+
2005
Rully"Clos du Chapitre" red: More deeply pitched aromas
of dark red and blue fruits, particularly plum, introduce earthy,
rich, full and sweet flavors that are also utterly delicious, all
wrapped in a more structured and powerful finish. This offers excellent
quality for a Rully red and is recommended. (87 90)/2009+
THE
BURGUNDY BRIEFING, Sarah Marsh, July August 06
The
Vaudésir and Fourchaume are négoce and the rest 25 hectares
is domaine. At Defaix they consider the 2005 vintage brings together
the characters of 2003 and 2004. "The fruit and complexity of
2003 and the acidity and minerality of 2004, which is the opposite
of 2003. The 2005 is the perfect compromise."
"For
the 2005 vintage we used more barrel because of the richness of the
vintage," says Defaix, but stresses this is a small percentage.
"It is difficult to use barrels and keep typicité of Chablis."
Petit
Chablis, 2005: Bright, pretty, creamy aroma and palate. Simple,
clear, fruit driven and pleasant. Ready.
Chablis,
2005: A bit more intensity on the nose. Juicy fruit, rounded,
fruit driven, fresh and balanced. A perfectly reasonable and agreeable
Chablis.
Chablis,
Vieilles Vignes, 2005: The vines are 35 years old on average and
are just under Les Lys. 20% goes into old barrels.
A little more honeyed fruit here with some floral notes. More weight
on the front of the palate - rounder, plumper and more generous in
the middle. It is nicely creamy and textured and the finish is longer
and biscuity. Soundly attractive.
Chablis,
Les Lys, 2005: This is a sample from cuve.
This is a lot tenser and more sherbety on the aroma. Touch of florality
and minerality. Attractively lively on the entry. Vivacious character
underscores the acidity. Light, direct and pacy with a whiff of chalk
on the finish. Very good
Chablis
Vaillons, 2005: 20% old oak. This will be blended and bottled
in September.
Touch less vibrant on the nose, slightly more perfumed but the lees
were not settling well in 2005 at this domaine. More substance on
the palate, delicately creamy. While it is not especially intense,
it is pretty and rounded, more plump then the Les Lys. Very good.
Chablis,
Côtes de Lechet, 2005: 20% barrels. They have 9 hectares!
More interesting aroma, more compact and mineral. Somewhat tighter
onto the palate. More nervous energy here, nicely chalky on the finish.
Modest intensity, but a good streamlined profile and an elegant and
reasonably well sustained finish. Very good+
Chablis
Cotes de Lechet, Reserve, 2005: 10% new oak, 40% old wood and
50% vat. For this they select older vines; the same plot each year
which is about 50 year old.
The wood is rather obvious on the nose. Rich creamy palate, plenty
of toastiness, which rather overwhelms, although it does have fair
fruit to support this. I prefer the previous wine.
Chablis,
Fourchaume, 2005 Defaix buys from the same vigneron every year
and takes the fruit from the same plot. Defaix tells me this vigneron
works the vines like him and keeps yields low. It is matured in 3
to 6 year old barrels.
Very ripe with greengages on the aroma and a touch of smoke. A round
and more harmonious attack, which launches a bigger and broader palate.
More weight here and power, and an earthiness. It is a little chunky.
Quite full and long on the finish. Very good
Chablis,
Vaudesir, 2005: This is all in old barrels. 35 year old vines.
This is a bit more reserved and shows more potential and promise.
Certainly a decent step up in quality. More classic and elegant, more
controlled, refined and nicely textured smoother with better expression
across the palate and onto the finish, which is a good deal longer.
Fine.
Chablis
Bougros, 2005: This sample came from a 1 year old barrel This
is certainly very rich, unctuous and unlike the Fourchaume, acidity
kicks in, so the balance is certainly better. It is full and glossy
and meaty on the finish. However I prefer the Vaudésir, which
is more elegant and possibly more complex. Particularly good to fine.
The
GUIDE HACHETTE 2007
Chablis
2004* :
This 2004 begins on hazelnut, with all the necessary liveliness, the
colour and the expected structure. All qualities to be confirmed in
2 years, the good time to wait for this wine to be perfectly ready.
Chablis 1er cru Fourchaume 2004: Negociant created beside the
family domain. And why not to tell it: Hélène is the
grand daughter of the famous photographer Janine Niepce and her father
was the first french climber on the Everest. This Fourchaume? Wait
for him. Ones can turn 36 times around this mouth structured, with
good acidity, simple and plaisant, wooded without excess, the conclusion
will remain the same: patience. Clear and brilliant eye, very gentle
nose.
Les Lys 2004: very good. They are selected.
Chablis
Grand Cru Vaudésir 2004:Wine merchant maturer created beside
the Domaine Bernard Defaix. "Dry, limpid, perfumed, lively and
light", that was the "travel warrant" fixed by the
famous Raymond Dumay for the Chablis. Everything can be found here,
with also the authentic greatness. Firm and with a good ageing capacity,
the wine is gold with silver reflects. The ageing (twelve months in
barrels) opens with delicacy a Vaudesir with light brioche taste,
rich and complex, with a natural elegance in front of which you bow.
Already selected as
in 2000 with the Bougros.
Rully 1er cru Préaux rouge 2004*: Viticulturist in Milly
near Chablis with herhusband Didier Defaix, Hélène is
manageing the domain of her grand aunt Henriette Niepce in Rully since
2002. Can we dream better marriage in white when the Chablisian and
the Cote Chalonnaise are going together to the altar? But it is a
Préaux rouge that we are tasting here. Brilliance, tears, purplish
ring, nothing is missing. The nose is on delicate red fruits notes.
Structured and racy, the palate is not dominated by the tanins nor
by the barrels. Enough freshness in reserve for the finish.
Mont-Palais
Blanc 1er cru 2004* is very good too and has one star also.
LE
CLASSEMENT DES MEILLEURS VINS DE FRANCE 2007 (Guide vert)
Bernard Defaix is retired and his 2 sons are now manageing
the domaine. This domain is a specialist of the terroirs of the left
bank of the Serein river, a bit less known than the right bank, but
which have splendid surprises in store on hot years, particularly
on terroirs like Lys or Côte de Lechet. The vinifications are
using the ageing on the lees in order to give fat to the wine and
to protect it against oxidation. The wines: the
2004's are promising and style wines. The Cote de Lechet Reserve has
a beautiful personality and a great length. Bougros shows an impressive
strength that few years in the cellar should quieten, whereas Vaudésir
asserts on fineness.
Petit Chablis and Chablis 04: 13,5
Chablis 1er cru Cote de Lechet 04: 14,5
Chablis 1er cru Vaillons 04: 15
Chablis 1er cru Fourchaume and Chablis 1er cru Cote de Lechet Reserve
04: 15,5
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 04: 16,5
Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir 04: 17
TIME AND LEISURE, July 06 (GB) has selected
our Chablis 04 among the "best of the summer wine"
Chablis 04: it shows a good minerally lemon fruit
with rich and concentrated floral scents. Excellent with seafood and
shellfish.
 |
LE
JOURNAL DU PALAIS, October 06
Chablis vieille vigne 2003: "Chablis is
a word easy to prononce in all languages". That is the explanation
given by Didier Defaix, the manager of Domaine Bernard Defaix (his
father), to explain the incredible success of this appellation on
the export markets. "Unfortunately", almost 90% of the wines
produced by the domain are exported on the 5 continents. So we have
not a lot of chance to find of of these wonders in France. And even
less in Burgundy. And yet, this wine is the best that could happen
for the french market. Sold under 10 euros, this wine joins the strength
of the Chablisian "terroir" to the fineness of Chardonnay.
An unique marriage that gives wines with such a particular style:
"pleasant and classic" summarizes the winemaker. Wines easy
to drink but with the structure of the best wines. This cuvée
coming from an old vine of 50 years of age, is still very frisky.
DECANTER, march 2006
Chablis
1er cru Cote de Lechet 2004 :
Light, fresh nose, lime. Good attack, fairly rich and concentrated,
spicy, minerality dominates fruit now, but it's tight and has potential.
2-8 years.
Chablis 1er cru Vaillons 2004: Very mineral and citrus and
floral blossom fruit. Limestone minerals and good intensity of flavour.
Up to 3 years
CUISINE
ET VINS DE FRANCE, février-mars 2006
"Sylvain
and Didier Defaix, the sons of Bernard, are evolving towards a more
natural viticulture. For them, a clean farming leads to beautiful
grapes. Their first crus Vaillons and Cote de Lechet have, in 2003
a fine structure just highlighted by the wood, and in 2004, a mineral
structure with a strong finish that needs to age a bit. We love the
purity and the discreet wood of these wines"
Photo:
"Didier Defaix carries at arms' length the most enormous cephalopods
found by his father in the vineyard"
|
MAGAZINU
WINO LUTY, marzec 2006 (Pologne)
Bougros 2003, AOC chablis grand cru, cena ****
Kolejne solidne chablis od tego producenta, które jednak nie
zachwyca. Bukiet kwiatowo-beczkowy, malo na razie nut mineralnych
i w ogóle malo ostrosci, jakiej oczekuje po chablis, zwlaszcza
grand cru. Ma szanse sie poprawic; na razie jest malo wyraziste jak
na wino tej klasy. (wb) ( sorry but I do not have the translation!)
LE
GUIDE HACHETTE 2006
Petit Chablis 2004 : Apples : this wine suggests the tempting
fruit. Fresh fruit and light colour, faithful to the appellation.
The mouth is well done, the persistance honourable. Its youth is already
pacified and the bottle can be appreciated from the reception of the
order.
Chablis 1er cru Les Lys 2003 * : This first cru from the
domaine, very pale with grey-green reflects, is fine, mineral and
lightly wooded; these characteristics remain all along the tasting,
accompanied by a great citrus fruits note. Balanced, round and long,
it will be perfect with a grilled fish. The Fourchaume 2003 from
Sylvain et Didier Defaix, wine-merchant business created in parallel
to the domain, obtains a star. There is here a butter and brioche
bouquet with the toasted flavor of oak. It will evolve, liberating
completely a silk body, well-structured. Big length.
Rully 1er cru Mont-Palais 2003: Hélène
Jaeger has made her nest in Milly on Chablisian area by marrying Didier
(Domaine Bernard Defaix). She is also taking over step by step the
family vineyard of her great-aunt Henriette Niepce in Rully, giving
birth to the domaine Jaeger-Defaix. When the child appears... This
inaugural vintage is a Mont-Palais pale gold, very limpid. The nose
light and floral evokes the carnation. Tender as good bread , it will
gain some length with one more year of patience. Then, the great-mother
of Hélène, the photographer Janine Niepce will make
its portrait.
LE
CLASSEMENT DES MEILLEURS VINS DE FRANCE (Guide Vert) 2006
This domain is a specialist of the terroirs of the left bank of the
Serein river, a bit less known than the right bank, but which have
splendid surprises in store on hot years, particularly on terroirs
like Lys or Côte de Lechet. The vinifications are using the
ageing on the lees in order to give fat to the wine and to protect
it against oxidation. The wines: with the heat of vintage 2003, the
results are mixed. At their best, the Bougros have a length and a
density which will stand out and the Vaillons are emerging with strength.
A little disappointment with Les Lys, a bit short in a vintage that
should have been favourable for them. It is true that the vintage
was a real headache both for viticulture and winemaking.
FIGARO
MAGAZINE, 9th of April 2005
Chablis
vieille vigne 2003 : From a vine of 45 years old, this wine is
round, ample and elegant. A delicate bouquet with notes of honeysuckle.
It shows an excellent depth and concentration. It can be kept 3 to
4 years. To serve with grilled fish or poultry.
GAULT
MILLAU, April/May 2005
Chablis vieille vigne 2003 : Classic and balanced
nose, ample mouth, with beautiful fruit, resulting from a conscientious
ageing, in oak barrels for one quarter of the production. A great
wine, persistent and harmonious, leaving the mouth fresh and spring-like***(*).
GUIDE
HACHETTE 2005
Chablis
2002 * : About a good Chablis, we used to say in the past that
"It has love". So can we say about this 2002. It should
age very well during a pair of years at least.Pale gold, very clear,
it has a straight nose: all of it is frankness. Almond flavors on
the mouth. Good length with fineness and tenderness.
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet 2002 * : One of the best
1ers crus of the left bank. This beautiful slope benefits from a remarquable
morphological unity. White gold, this wine offers a fine and complexe
bouquet (citrus fruits and white fruits). Good fruit on mouth also,
freshness and richness, the dry character of Chablis'. Forget this
bottles 2 years in your cellar. We also mention Les Lys 2002, to forget
a while also, for shell fishes.
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2002, Sylvain & Didier Defaix **
: A small negociant business created beside the domaine, very successful
as this Bougros, pale gold and luminous. Racy and frank on the nose.
Good structure. To wait 3 to 4 years to reach the perfect level.
